How to replicate HELLA's smoked ellipsoid technique:
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Did you let the lense touch the bottom of the pot? I boiled the projector assembly b/c it was plastic and I didn't want it to melt in the oven. I just suspended it on aluminum foil with boiling water underneath. The key is to gradually heat the lense. Takes alot of time so need to be patient. -
I just modded the vent, shortened it and painted it black so it didn't interfer with crosshairs.

it's much shorter, but better then nothing. no problems yet, it's only been a week however.
Oh and btw, don't boil the lens, I did that to the first light and the lens was very difficult to remove, eventually ended up cracking it. the remaining lights were baked in the oven and popped right off.Leave a comment:
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I think the u.s. lights need the hole cause the 9005/9006 bulbs dont really seal airtight. if you can seal the rear really good, then sure, otherwise you will want a larger vent for them or they will fog, and stay fogged.Leave a comment:
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yeah why not? or maybe the us ellipsoids aren't sealed well, so it needs a vent.Leave a comment:
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no, euro lights have no vent. they are sealed though with a rubber seal on the rear where the bulb goes in.Leave a comment:
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do the euro lights have the vent like the U.S. ellips? could i just remove it?Leave a comment:
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I try to have a little of everything in my stable :) Just need a 7-series to even it out.
To update the thread, I ended up notching the light baffle for the vent. I blackened the white vent post with a black sharpie. Looks awsome.
I then continued on to the second side and proceeded to shatter the lense on the 2nd high beam`
And since the best price I can find on a used high beam lense is $40, I'm looking into alternative high beam options. Perhaps trying to fit some Hella spot/driving lights in their place. Who knows.
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that is a fuckin fabulous collection of vehicles there.. damnOriginally posted by Bread1988 E30 M3, 1999 Ducati 996, 1971 International Scout IILeave a comment:
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What a pain it was to get the plastic high beams apart. But now I have another problem. My plastic reflector US highbeams have a moisture vent right in the way of the vertical baffle. Now I'm trying to decide if I should just remove the vent and silicone over the hole, or if I should cut the baffle to clear the vent post and paint the post black. Thoughts?Leave a comment:
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Is everybody using a clear silicone, or black? I picked up some clear aquarium silicone, but I'm thinking now that perhaps a black silicone would dissipate through the edges of the lense making for a darker look.
Only reason I didn't get the black RTV adhesive sealant silicone at the autoparts store is because it states on the package that it's resistant to temperatures of 500 deg. So if I ever need to take the lense off again It will be much more difficult.Leave a comment:
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notice for the crosshairs to appear straight, you have to align them to the vertical lines on the lens.
I did not know this so I had to "adjust them" after I put the lens on. so you see the horizontal crosshair is not quite perpendicular.
so they should be set at approximately this position. Then double/ triple check with the lens on.
Last edited by ///M42 sport; 02-16-2008, 07:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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when setting your crosshairs for the high beams, use the vertical indentations on the glass as your reference. DONT eyeball them or you'll end up with crooked ass crosshairs that will look like ass when mounted on your car.Leave a comment:
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The sealer I am using is silicone calking from the hardware store. My friend used it on his subaru headlights, and they work for itLeave a comment:
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order new ones from the stealer...I think most sealants will as the rings hold the lenses in place and wind resistant presses the lenses. Just use some glue that doesnt gets damaged in the heat from the light.
Anyway I have a question my self:
Where can I get the crappy thing that holds the light to the frame thingie?
Screws with some plastic thing on it.Leave a comment:

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