Engine Push Start Button Install

[Bread]

Hmm, well, thats not entirely true believe it or not. I agree that all scotch locs should be deposited in the nearest trash can, word is these days is best connection comes from a proper mechanical crimp+silicone or adhesive lined heatshrink.

The "best" connection is entirely dependant on the person doing the work. A Crimp connection can work very good if done properly. I use them for terminal ends such as ring and spade terminals all the time. There's really no other choice in those situations. But as you said, they must be properly crimped and insulated. Give them a strong pull when finished to see if they hold.

But for splicing or joining wires, solder is the only way to go. I use a liquid electrical tape to seal the connections, and then wrap them with shrink tubing or the like.

A good comparison of a soldered connection vs. a crimped is a battery cable. If you've ever used one of those cheap replacement battery ground posts which clamps onto the bare cable strands you've experienced this corrosion first hand. In a matter of months the strand ends will be tarnished black and packed with corrosion. If it was possible to dip the entire clamp in plasti-dip it might slow the process. But really, the best way to go is a cable-end that fully soldered to the clamp, such as the stock cable is designed.


SOLDER: http://www.oddcables.com/faqs_crimp_solder.asp

Solder - This fabrication method is often considered the most labor-intensive because the connector's center contact is soldered to the cable's inner conductor. Performed properly, it is also one of the most reliable connections and can be used on cable with solid or stranded center conductors. If metals and plating of contact and cable are compatible and solder-able, and, if the technician is skilled in this type of installation, solder connections can be expected to perform for long periods of use.

Information regarding cleaning old wiring. I have a ton of this in my truck:

Wire Aged and badly tarnished copper should be thoroughly scraped with a stiff wire brush that penetrates the entire bundle and cleans every strand. The wires are ready for insertion into the contact barrel when they are burnished to there original bright copper finish. Contact barrels are lined with silver or tin plating to assure consistently high conductivity, which will be reduced if the barrel is crimped around aged or tarnished copper wire.

This is a really great picture tutorial on soldering correctly. This is really all you need to know to solder correctly: http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...l#Anchor-49575

[DaveSmed]

I don't understand the point of the key pad when you can program a security code into the OBC to disable the starter anyways.

As for making your wire connections, always use solder. If your soldered joints are cracking, then you didn't do it properly. A cold solder is brittle because it sticks to the surface of the wire, rather than penetrating the strands. Cold soldering is caused by heating the solder directly onto the soldering iron and dripping it onto the wire. Good, clean wiring with the solder drawn through the strands (heat the wire, not the solder) will be stronger and conduct better than any crimp connector. Especially those cheap wire taps. Soldering your wire taps also protects the connections from corrosion. This is especially important for wiring done under the hood.

I've got a truck with many aftermarket wiring connections made with wire crimps over 30 years ago. To this day I'm battling the many unreliable connections from years of moisture entering the contacts causing surface corrosion between the wires. Had these connections been properly soldered and wrapped, I wouldn't be dealing with this. Hell, I found a handful of pastic wire taps under the dash of my M3 that were no more than 10 years old and they were already totally crap.

Plastic wire taps are the lazy way of doing electrical work. I remove them everytime I come accross one. They'll only cause you more headache in the future.

Hmm, well, thats not entirely true believe it or not. I agree that all scotch locs should be deposited in the nearest trash can, word is these days is best connection comes from a proper mechanical crimp+silicone or adhesive lined heatshrink.

[Bread]

Sooooooo, anything happen with the key pad and what not?

I don't understand the point of the key pad when you can program a security code into the OBC to disable the starter anyways.

As for making your wire connections, always use solder. If your soldered joints are cracking, then you didn't do it properly. A cold solder is brittle because it sticks to the surface of the wire, rather than penetrating the strands. Cold soldering is caused by heating the solder directly onto the soldering iron and dripping it onto the wire. Good, clean wiring with the solder drawn through the strands (heat the wire, not the solder) will be stronger and conduct better than any crimp connector. Especially those cheap wire taps. Soldering your wire taps also protects the connections from corrosion. This is especially important for wiring done under the hood.

I've got a truck with many aftermarket wiring connections made with wire crimps over 30 years ago. To this day I'm battling the many unreliable connections from years of moisture entering the contacts causing surface corrosion between the wires. Had these connections been properly soldered and wrapped, I wouldn't be dealing with this. Hell, I found a handful of pastic wire taps under the dash of my M3 that were no more than 10 years old and they were already totally crap.

Plastic wire taps are the lazy way of doing electrical work. I remove them everytime I come accross one. They'll only cause you more headache in the future.

[MA-BMW]

Sooooooo, anything happen with the key pad and what not?

[Doughnut]

I'm not sure if this was asked already, but can you still crank the car without pushing the button?

If you wire the button same as the OP, then Yes, you can still use the key to crank the car over.

[e304me]

you could wire it that way but if you cut the wire you need to tap into then no

[evil_twin]

I'm not sure if this was asked already, but can you still crank the car without pushing the button?

[AndrewBird]

Anyone got a link to this video you speak of?

[DaveSmed]

Its actaully just the solenoid it powers. And i welded a bead across mine so it wont heat up

Damn, that works too. Good thinking.

[AL GReeNeRy]

fyi, my cig lighter starter mod is pretty much the same as this except mine was free!! used a relay as well and instead of buying another switch, i used my broken cig lighter that doesnt stay down. so there will be no melting of any part of my car!

[Axxe]

The starter solenoid acts as the high current relay. An extra relay on the pushbutton doesn't hurt though, especially since most are cheap and can't handle more than a few amps.

[e304me]

Its actaully just the solenoid it powers. And i welded a bead across mine so it wont heat up

[Sean]

well it goes to another relay anyways right? i have a modified cig lighter as my starter button and it seems to do the job

Yea, I saw that video. I'd be worried that you'd melt your ashtray apart like that. The starter draws a lotttttaaa power.

[DaveSmed]

well it goes to another relay anyways right?

No.

Interesting the cig lighter passes enough current to engage the starter solenoid. Kinda thought it might, BUT for the best reliability, you will want to add in a relay yourself. There is a chance the solenoid may need more amperage one day (maybe on a hot engine on a hot day? who knows) and the cig lighter is just going to heat the element up instead of actuate the starter.

[e304me]

well it goes to another relay anyways right? i have a modified cig lighter as my starter button and it seems to do the job