Originally posted by iPee
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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve
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i had this problem last year around september or october, and ended up doing a ghetto fix with rtv. it didn't cost me anything, as i used orings, screws, and rtv that i already had. i took a picture of the valve a few months later, and although i havent taken any recently it still looks the same and is still completely dry. in the picture you can see the problem seal, and the deterioration of it in the center. the outside was still in good enough shape, so i just ripped out the loose pieces in the center and covered the seal in rtv after cleaning everything off with brake cleaner. i believe the problem with most of these valves is the original rivets holding the parts together can no longer provide enough clamping force, hence the coolant leaking out of that seam. i replaced the rivets with screws and nuts that i had. you can see i had to grind the edges off the nuts due to clearance limitations. if i had taken a trip to the hardware store i might've found smaller parts that didn't require any modification. just thought i'd share in case anyone was wondering if it's possible to fix it and save some money. of course only time will tell how long it holds up
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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve
I got the valve apart and took out the rivets. When I tried to put it back together, I have a gap that looks even bigger than before. Did anyone else have this issue? Will the bolts actually help clamp it down all the way?
Also the diaphragm in the middle is torn, should I just replace the valve altogether?
It fits a bit better with the metal washer out. Is the washer needed for it to operate properly?
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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve
I just went through replacing my heater valve, I was hoping there was a rebuild kit for it like other models but there is not. When I was emailing the gentlemen at blunttech and asked if the valve works without that grommet/diaphram he replied with
"Ive never had one apart but I do know that itll constantly throw warm air without that grommet as hot water will be leaking non stop" Sooo prettymuch no ac and no aux fan, heater all the time.
I bought the wrong part when doing mine so I have a brand new plastic inlet heater valve for sale if you're interested, but asking what I paid because I can still return it for a refund.
I didn't want to wait fir the new part so I just bypassed it for the time being with a valve like the post above
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Well this is frustrating, the new part is still leaking at the seams. Drove it for 200km and was wondering why the coolant kept dipping in the reservoir. Although it is not as bad as the old/original unit that came with the car I'm still a little disappointed. I have all new pipes and o-rings as well. Can I put RTV or silicone around the seams as a temporary fix. I have track day coming up next week and doubt I'll be able to replace it in time.
Will having the heat off make it worst since the valve is shut closed the coolant will build up more pressure at that point. My thinking was if I had the heat on it will help relieve some of the pressure since it will flow through the heater core instead of creating a big bottle neck at the seams.
Or will it not make a difference at all?
Apologize for the beeping
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Originally posted by iPee View Post
Will having the heat off make it worst since the valve is shut closed the coolant will build up more pressure at that point. My thinking was if I had the heat on it will help relieve some of the pressure since it will flow through the heater core instead of creating a big bottle neck at the seams.
Or will it not make a difference at all?
Apologize for the beeping
pressure is equal in a system so it will not hurt to close it. turning the heat on will only relieve some of the temp from the coolant, not relieve system pressure as system pressure is what keeps the coolant from boiling.
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So the heater valve in my car finally starting pissing itself all of a sudden, and being the stereotypical saggy baggy pant adult e30 owner that I am, I just couldn't justify paying $250 or whatever insane price this valve costs, yet my pants don't sag far enough for me to by-pass the heater so I DIY fixed it.
As posted above, 4 rivets are what hold these two pieces together and eventually they stretch a little bit causing some separation/play - giving the pressurized coolant the path of least resistance to follow and leak on out. Mine had some play in it.
I drilled the rivets out, opened the unit, and found a cylindrical metal piece that presses against a black rubber gasket so coolant cannot pass through. It is pressed against this gasket with the force of the 4 rivets outside.
Seeing how this part isn't supposed to be serviceable, I RTV'd the gasket before putting it back together for good measure.
I used machine screw and nut hardware to replace the rivets for better clamping force that wont fatigue over time. You need screws that are 1.25" in length.
Don't get mad at me because they aren't metric, the selection at Lowel's sucks and I almost left empty handed. :p
Hands were dirty and I couldn't take pictures of the internal sorry!
The gap between the black and white pieces of the valve is normal.
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Originally posted by efficient View Postyou dont want to put jb weld all around so it doesnt leak?
i did the same to a valve but didnt feel comfortable putting it in the car. knowing my luck it would probably leak still.
let us know if its leak free
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