Thanks for the write-up. I haven't had to do mine yet, but it's nice to know that it's not a nightmare job like on most cars.
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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve
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1988 5 spd.Cabrio/Lachs Silber/Black Leather/123k/Dealer Serviced & Maintained by both PO's
Clarion DXZ785USB HU, BBS Wheels, Leather e-brake handle & e-brake boot, Mtech 1 Wheel, Maplight Mirror, Performance chip, Rear Headrests.
Previous E30: 1986 5 spd. 325es/Delphin Gray/Black Leather/191k
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Upon taking the old core out, it doesnt appear to leak, at least when I fill it with water and hold it there. Nothing drips.
Does it need to be under pressure of a running motor and hot coolant to reveal a leak? My windows were greasy/foggy even a day or two after I cleaned them, this means I needed a new/non leaking heater core right?
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Yep, deffinetely remove the seat and steering wheel to make this job easier.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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Originally posted by nefarious7907 View Post
This job should only take 45-60 minutes to uninstall and reinstall while goofing off and taking breaks to stretch...[snip]
As described above this 60-minute job is really quite simple, but only if your car is equipped with an air conditioner. Note how the heater core in the photo above sits low down right behind the corrugated connector for the floor ducting.
In my non a\c 86 325 however the heater core sits much higher up, as shown in the photo below. The red arrow points to the heater core, the yellow to the heater solenoid valve, the green to the steering column.
Before tackling this job I read all the DIY articles on how easy it is to replace the heater core, only to discover that there's not enough space available to slide the core out of the heater box. It only comes out so far then bangs up against the steering column.
In my case there were only two options for extracting the heater core. Remove the entire dash and heater box assembly, or drop the steering column and pedal cluster.
I dropped the column and pedal cluster, but that was no fun at all as the steering column is held up by special shear-bolts with no heads on them. They had to be drilled out, and getting access to them was a bitch.
I have since done it the other way too, removing the entire dash and heater box assembly. That was no fun either.
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This write up pertains to E30's with the metal heater core/valve pipes. That is the first thing I wrote at the top of the writeup. I dont know why there are not any write ups for E30's with the plastic pipes. As I dont have any info to contribute about the plastic pipe style maybe you should create a writeup for it.
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Only a very few early production e30's and non US cars
The job is quoted at 7 hours.
Originally posted by Ferdinand View PostThere's just one little thing to watch out for.
As described above this 60-minute job is really quite simple, but only if your car is equipped with an air conditioner. Note how the heater core in the photo above sits low down right behind the corrugated connector for the floor ducting.
In my non a\c 86 325 however the heater core sits much higher up, as shown in the photo below. The red arrow points to the heater core, the yellow to the heater solenoid valve, the green to the steering column.
Before tackling this job I read all the DIY articles on how easy it is to replace the heater core, only to discover that there's not enough space available to slide the core out of the heater box. It only comes out so far then bangs up against the steering column.
In my case there were only two options for extracting the heater core. Remove the entire dash and heater box assembly, or drop the steering column and pedal cluster.
I dropped the column and pedal cluster, but that was no fun at all as the steering column is held up by special shear-bolts with no heads on them. They had to be drilled out, and getting access to them was a bitch.
I have since done it the other way too, removing the entire dash and heater box assembly. That was no fun either.
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Originally posted by nefarious7907 View PostThis write up pertains to E30's with the metal heater core/valve pipes. That is the first thing I wrote at the top of the writeup. I dont know why there are not any write ups for E30's with the plastic pipes. As I dont have any info to contribute about the plastic pipe style maybe you should create a writeup for it.
I do know that cars with a/c have the condensor/dryer/whatever located higher in the heater box and the heater core located down deeper. In your case the heater core slides out real easy below the steering column. On my Cdn 86 325, without an air conditioner, the heater core bumps into the steering column when you try to slide it out.
The only way to get it out is to drop the steering column and pedal cluster, or remove the entire dash so that the whole heater box can be removed with the heater cluster still inside it. Other than that non-trivial difference the procedure is exactly the same as your writeup describes.
To drop the steering column you have to drill out, from below, the "Fracture Bolts" shown as #12 in this RealOEM drawing. That wasn't easy.
Otherwise you can remove the entire dash, then go in through the access hatch in the firewall from the engine side to remove the blower fan and undo the bolts holding the heater box.
The red arrow in this photo points to one of the Fracture Bolts. There are two that go in from the sides like this. There are another two that go in from below that are difficult to access. The owns from the side are easy to get to only if you remove the dash first. But if you're going to remove the dash, then you might as well remove the complete heater box. It's already removed in this photo.
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You probably can't get a good grip on them with the dashboard still in but I removed both an E30 and a 2002 steering column with a pair of vice grips, and I reinstalled the same "break-off" bolts when I put the cars back together. This may not work in this situation, but just FYI that it does work in some situations. Just clamped on and they came loose, and I was able to tighten them down pretty well after that. At least something to try before having to drill them out and go to alot more effort.sigpic
2001 330i - In the garage.
1986 335is - 325e with Euro 735 M30B34, Under Construction.
1989 E30 ///M3 - Sold.
1975 2002 - Sold.
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