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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve
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call me crazy, but i always install used ones. the new style heater valves are rubbish that hardly last a couple years. all the US spec e30s with factory air conditioning take the same heater valve, but if you have any questions, certainly reference your VIN on RealOEM.
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Originally posted by Thunderzol View PostThey sell two different heater core valves one with the two crew holes on the clamp facing the the heater core is much cheaper. How can I tell which one I need prior to taking the old one out?
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They sell two different heater core valves one with the two crew holes on the clamp facing the the heater core is much cheaper. How can I tell which one I need prior to taking the old one out?
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Originally posted by tenkaichibudokai View PostCan anybody tell me how to remove this black plastic vent? I can only see one screw on the bottom right which I took off but I can't see anywhere else it's attached to.
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Can anybody tell me how to remove this black plastic vent? I can only see one screw on the bottom right which I took off but I can't see anywhere else it's attached to.
Enviado desde mi Nexus 6P mediante Tapatalk
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Originally posted by shoshottz View Post@mbonanni
last questions...
i dont have ac but sometimes i enjoy the the blower motor lol...
if i close the valve, essentially im closing coolant flow off to the heater system which in turn would then allow the coolant to just cycle in the engine as if the heater core was bypassed right?
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Yes that is correct, or at least that was my understanding of how the system works. I could be wrong though.
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Originally posted by mbonanni View PostI wish I had more pics, but that’s all I’ve got. The valve is $10 from home depot. Just takes some clamps and some coolant hose to fab up.
Also, I think making it a straight shot will cause your air to blow max heat all the time. Since AC wont matter in your case I guess it depends if you want to control the heat or have a fan.
@mbonanni
last questions...
i dont have ac but sometimes i enjoy the the blower motor lol...
if i close the valve, essentially im closing coolant flow off to the heater system which in turn would then allow the coolant to just cycle in the engine as if the heater core was bypassed right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Originally posted by mbonanni View PostI wish I had more pics, but that’s all I’ve got. The valve is $10 from home depot. Just takes some clamps and some coolant hose to fab up.
Also, I think making it a straight shot will cause your air to blow max heat all the time. Since AC wont matter in your case I guess it depends if you want to control the heat or have a fan.
Hmmmmm, this helps me reconsider
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I wish I had more pics, but that’s all I’ve got. The valve is $10 from home depot. Just takes some clamps and some coolant hose to fab up.
Also, I think making it a straight shot will cause your air to blow max heat all the time. Since AC wont matter in your case I guess it depends if you want to control the heat or have a fan.
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so if i have no AC (24v swap), can i just fab up a straight pipe and forget the entire heater valve? any reason why i wouldnt want to?
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Originally posted by mbonanni View PostMy ball valve style fix is still going strong, was less than $10 to do. Just have to manually open/close if you want to use AC. However my car currently doesn’t have working ac soooo
sorry @jjoc i meant a write up on this! seriously!
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Originally posted by shoshottz View Postany chance you can do a write up on that open close valve thingamabober!?
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any chance you can do a write up on that open close valve thingamabober!?
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Thank you! I will revert those back as I have connected wrong. No wonder I have no heat. I will keep you posted.
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