How To: Clean Your ICV-(Air Stabilizer Valve)

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  • BergerNJ
    replied
    those factory clamps are actually a standard for use in irrigation work and can be used any funny pipe/rubber hose.


    when I do repair work on any hoses or pipes when working irrigation, the EASIEST way to get those clamps off is to grab where you can see where it was crimped inwards and twist. It should snap easily, and if it doesn't give it one or two more twists....Cutting them is actually harder.

    Depending on the icv, if it has a metal shroud/inlet then your safe in doing this. If its plastic, I am unsure, I would recommend cutting and not possibly over tightening the clamp to the point you crack or break the icv



    using them when twisting off makes it super easy

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  • Pantless Spency
    replied
    i took mine out this afternoon, ran some carb cleaner / throttle body cleaner through it, didn't notice gunk coming out.. let it dry put it back in, drove around the block and it started revving high then low again.
    :/
    i was mad, so then i played with that nut on top of the ICV, put it further in a little bit and the rpms settled, took it out again and it was revving erratically again, so i put it back in more again, i guess that's what my issue was :roll:
    at least i cleaned it out to prevent future issues :)

    Leave a comment:


  • e30trooper
    replied
    cleand mine today now i idle at 850 :D b4 was 1200, i just used some intake cleaner not BPC thats alil to hardcore for a part and i didnt want to buy a new one, allso found a huge crack under teh icv so i replaced that tube, now runs great next is timing!

    Leave a comment:


  • BobombETA
    replied
    Thanks for the writeup, it cured my idle woes.

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  • bimmer_E30
    replied
    Originally posted by e30pwr
    yeah i know. my hand is covered in sharpie more often than not.



    it worked perfectly, cleaned out the idle for a while, then replacing the o2 does a bit of good too.
    ok after u take the ICV out . what you do lol?:giggle: i am lost

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  • e30pwr
    replied
    Originally posted by dashboardmonkey
    I like the size of the hose clamp wrote on your hand.

    Made me lol

    Andy
    yeah i know. my hand is covered in sharpie more often than not.

    Originally posted by Nicademus
    Thanks for making this DIY. Really useful. How did it work out for you? Make things better? Your ICV looked pretty grimy inside.
    it worked perfectly, cleaned out the idle for a while, then replacing the o2 does a bit of good too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Atreus
    replied
    cool. i used it on the tb, amazed at the gunk in there. nice name btw.

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  • archemedes
    replied
    most carb cleaners are throttle body cleaners too

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  • Atreus
    replied
    carb cleaner okay to run through this thing (TB) or do i absolutely NEED TB cleaner. car is down because my icv/afm is drying. knock em all out now? or will the carb stuff damage it.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by indecline
    quick question. I was cleaning my ICV (air stablizer). while at it i though of painting the metal mount to it red. the paint's is meant for 80F out low humidity use. is that ok? How hot is the temp of the valve cover at idle?

    hot enough to burn your hand if you touch it. I wouldn't use 80f paint on that.

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  • GaryE30
    replied
    if it is not a high temp paint, i wouldn't use it on engine parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • indecline
    replied
    quickity quick quick

    quick question. I was cleaning my ICV (air stablizer). while at it i though of painting the metal mount to it red. the paint's is meant for 80F out low humidity use. is that ok? How hot is the temp of the valve cover at idle?

    Leave a comment:


  • SpecM
    replied
    Originally posted by Nicademus
    Thanks for the DIY, I say it should be a sticky ;)
    well you're welcome! haha

    Process is for an 89 325i... adjust accordingly...

    -Loosen the clamps on the air boot at the AFM and the TB (prob. be a clamp for the ICV too). Wiggle it a bit to remove the boot. Wedge a rag under the TB assembly to catch run-off.
    -Use a commonly available TB cleaner (I like Seafoam's "Deep Creep", kinda pricey tho) and spray the front side of the throttle plate. Use the throttle linkage above the TB to open the plate, exposing the backside and bore. Spray them down real good too.
    -With one hand (or a helper's hand haha) holding the throttle open, use an old soft toothbrush (that you don't want to re-use btw!) and scrub the bore and plate surfaces, getting out all the "gunk" and carbony build-up. Re-spray with cleaner as needed.
    -Hose it down one last time (be generous with it!) with the TB cleaner to get it nice and shiney. Wiggle the boot back in, clamp her down, and floor the thottle a few times in the car to make sure it doesn't feel like the shaft is binding (this is why I like Deep Creep btw, it has lubricating additives to ensure long shaft/bushing/bearing life. Also, its the same stuff as Seafoam in aerosol form ;-)). Start her up, let it idle for 5-10 sec, rev it up and down from idle to 3k a few times to clear it out. Expect fumes :D
    -Drive and enjoy!

    Leave a comment:


  • george graves
    replied
    Originally posted by M3 Ryan
    just make sure NOT to lube it when you are done (no spraying WD-40 or anything in there...) as it needs some resistance in the flapper.
    A drop of oil ok? or just let it lub it's self?

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicademus
    replied
    Originally posted by SpecM
    get some TB cleaner and an old toothbrush... take off the air boot... get to work!
    Thanks for the DIY, I say it should be a sticky ;)

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