DIY: Euro Bumper Install - Early Models

[scabzzzz]

scabzzzz - thanks!

Would you happen to have any input on the mtech1 front/rear valances from eurostop?

They look ok. Its handmade and hand laid, so expect imperfections. With that sort of product, you almost need to hand it over to a professional or spend some time to massage it to fit your car. Im just speculating though, they look nice. They look close to original too which is cool.

And thanks for hte input guys. I'll update with quotes everything in the original post tomorrow. Want to keep it nice and tidy in this bitch.

[Jean]

scabzzzz - thanks!

Would you happen to have any input on the mtech1 front/rear valances from eurostop?

[rThor432]

The only option I can think of that would be right would be to source the pigtails from BMW (dunno if its possible) or find a euro donor and cut the connectors off.

You can use the fuel pump sending unit plugs from pre-88 cars. If you take the connector apart you can make it look factory. The spare wire (US spec has 3 wires, Euro has 2) on Euro cars is used for a running light or something similar, cant remember at the moment.

Or, like Jason said, you can trim the US spec plug.

[Coco Savage]

OMG i wub u

[JasonC]

I found on the turn signals in the front bumper. You can trim the connector on the US wiring harness (male end) to fit into the one in the bumper (female). You'll have to cut the side of the male connector that has the parking light wire.

[scabzzzz]

Sup gents. I get a lot of PM about this and when searching, I see a lot of empty threads with questions about european thin metal bumpers and installation questions etc..

I made it a point to type up some stuff here:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...1&postcount=16

My good man Levent took a step further, and took the pictures that I SHOULD HAVE taken to begin with. So here is a bit of copy and pasting from a few threads to bunch everything into one to clarify everything. If you have anything to share, feel free. There are a few things left that I did not cover such as front bumper turn signals, and rear drain vents.

Here is the information from the other thread combined with Levents pics.


Rear install:
Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. The biggest deal is where to drill the holes at for the bumpers. If you use the stock holes from the old shocks, they dont line up and if it comes close, the bumper will be sagging way down away from where the body lines tell you it needs to be. Take out the carpet in your trunk, look down by the trunks floor pans and near the tail lights.


You'll see what looks like a reinforcement tab with 2 dimples in it. It will be epoxied over by the factory.
Figure out which hole you'll need with the brackets in hand, and drill through that dimple. I promise you, it will come out perfectly so that you are using 1 end on the existing bumper shock hole and the one that you drilled. Thats where they made the difference between the euro chassis and American versions.

Put the largest diameter bolt end on the bracket into the existing hole for the American bumper shock, and the other smaller diameter bolt on the bracket into the hole you drilled. You'll angle the bracket upright and a little to the side. Like this:


Another trick I noticed, is to keep the nut loose that bolts the bracket to the bumpers. This is so you can adjust it how you need to when aligning the bumper. You can slide a socket and ratchet in just fine even with the bumpers mounted. Everything else bolts up in the original American holes on the sides.

Front install:
Very simple, very straight forward. Lines up just like a normal bumper would minus shocks. Bolts in all places that the DB setup you took off would go in. The only hint I have is to do the middle euro plate trim section last and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS DONT TOO MUCH ON THE TURN SIGNAL HOUSINGS.

Side Notes:
- There is an issue with the front turn signals. The early US version connectors do not fit into the euro signal. The only option I can think of that would be right would be to source the pigtails from BMW (dunno if its possible) or find a euro donor and cut the connectors off. From what I remember, its just a simple color match, wire to wire. Otherwise you're stuck fabricating something.

- Rear drain vents are going to be another problem. See TDE30's writeup on page 3. Very detailed, and is the best way to go about it without welding plates over top of the holes. Also, I hear TDE30 has a huge dong. Peep it...

- Extra Holes - In the rear, you'll notice gaping holes from where old DB hardware once went to. I messed up and drilled an extra hole or two trying to figure out how to mount the rear. The proper way to deal with this is epoxy or JB Weld over it. No way around it. Another problem would be the old DB bumper shock locations. You can actually see them underneath the skinny euro bumper. Its a big hole with 2 screw holes, one on each side. Does not look pretty. The only way I see about doing this right, is to cut a piece of 22 gauge steel plate to size, and weld it up. Tack weld would be fine, then paint over it. At that point, i think you would want to de-texturize the valence because it would not match.

- Front Valence issues refer to this thread here:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=41969&page=7

Post number 104 and on should deal with front valence issues and the problems with different years on early models. Late model cars did not have such problems, its all the same for them.


I think thats all I can think of for now. Questions and comments welcome. I've never seen an informative thread on euro bumper shit like what just happened OHHH SNAPP.

I'll update though. Thanks Levent for the pictures. Let me know if I need to take them off your hosting and put it on mine.



Sources:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=41969&page=7

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=110094&page=11

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=110094&page=11