rear wheel bearing job w pics

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  • tonywonder
    replied
    wow you did that with hammers and make shift installer. amazing. i had to go to harbor freight and buy the tool. the hardest part was getting everything out. i noticed you also used the FAG bearings. which side did you put the groove? hub side or axle side? or does it even matter?

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  • Simon S
    replied
    I couldn’t source the puller/installer tool locally.
    Dug into box of plumbing-part tools used to get rear subframe bushings out..

    3-jaw to push axles out. Sledge and large socket with extension used to drive out hubs.



    Bearings also pounded out



    The plumbing-parts tool was finicky to use - but it worked.



    Tools used. (3-jaw puller not shown) Long, needle-nose pliers used for lock rings.



    Not one of the more fun jobs.. lol

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  • immajackuup
    replied
    should of left the axle on and use a jaw puller to pull hub out.

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  • kdfwagen
    replied
    thought I would post this up to show people how to make their own wheel bearing puller/press. I did this on my porsche 964 and will be doing this on my 325e in a couple days:

    964 Forum - wheel bearing puller - home made - Recently I had to change my drivers rear wheel bearing, but didn't want to wait for porsche certified tool. So I made a few measurements, and headed to Home Depot to see what I could find. Figured I would share these parts for any interested parties. Total cost was about...


    BUY a BIGGER threaded rod than what he used though... makes it alot easier.


    Question: what size is the rear axle nut on a 1984 325e?

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  • NeoMishMoo
    replied
    Originally posted by E30 F34R
    I think that is too much, they can be made from a long bolt and large washers and think metal pipe like the one pictured. I made mine for under 10 bucks.
    Pics and guide on making this cheap tool?

    Guess I will have to buy the tool online from harbor freight seeing as how the local harbor freight here is super tiny and has a very limited selection, wonder if anyone would have this tool for rent?

    Originally posted by BlueBMW
    .... what will happen if a worn out bearing is not replaced? Wheel falls off? axle gets destroyed? Bearing seizes up? Just curious on worst case scenario
    Bearings going bad should last you a few weeks if not months, supposedly they will lock up causing you to crash, at least that is what the mechanic told me after returning promptly after a test drive because my bearings were "so bad they scared him." That was 3 weeks ago. Been driving my car daily until I get some time next weekend to put new bearings in. Bottom line is that these cars will go a long way on "bad" bearings under normal driving conditions.
    Last edited by NeoMishMoo; 08-15-2010, 05:25 PM.

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  • Sean
    replied
    Originally posted by Sean
    So I've been battling these damn rear wheel bearings all week after work. (pretty much). First, getting the hub out was a real pain in the ass. Now, I'm putting bearings back in, and something just seems off. I have the harbor freight tool and I am pushing on the outer race for sure. First, I'm really having to crank the ratchet to move this damn bearing in. It is a tight mf-er. Am i doing something wrong? I mean, it was going in a bit slanted, but I fixed that with a few taps of the hammer. Now it's straight and it still refuses to obey my command to go in... advice, tips? I want this bitch done. ugh.
    Nevermind...I just grew some cojones and kept cranking. Both bearings in now and just got one hub in. Hub went in a lot easier than the bearing, THATS for sure. lol

    Thank goodness...almost to the final stretch!

    Now...to take care of everything else on the car...lol

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  • Sean
    replied
    So I've been battling these damn rear wheel bearings all week after work. (pretty much). First, getting the hub out was a real pain in the ass. Now, I'm putting bearings back in, and something just seems off. I have the harbor freight tool and I am pushing on the outer race for sure. First, I'm really having to crank the ratchet to move this damn bearing in. It is a tight mf-er. Am i doing something wrong? I mean, it was going in a bit slanted, but I fixed that with a few taps of the hammer. Now it's straight and it still refuses to obey my command to go in... advice, tips? I want this bitch done. ugh.

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  • F34R
    replied
    Nice DIY, the kits are around 150. I think that is too much, they can be made from a long bolt and large washers and think metal pipe like the one pictured. I made mine for under 10 bucks.

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  • movementality
    replied
    not exactly, well not at all actually lol it almost sounds like I have a nail in my tire and it hits the pavement as it rotates only when I coast

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  • The_Nietzschean
    replied
    Is it a high pitch whine that lowers in pitch with deceleration?
    If so, earlier on in this thread someone said that it was most likely a worn differential. I am replacing my diff fluid today to see if it remedies the problem.

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  • movementality
    replied
    i have a question with diagnosing, i'm sure it's the rear but i wanna be sure.

    so when i put any load (accelerate, engine braking) i don't hear anything. But when i let it out of gear and coast with "no load" it makes an annoying sound. I can't quite pinpoint whether it's coming from the front or rear. would that suggest it's the rear?

    well at least i'm subbing incase i have to do this before school starts up again

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  • The_Nietzschean
    replied
    I also would like to know as my FAG bearing came in today. Also, I have read all the posts I can find about this job but would like to know about a definitive list of tools needed to do the job properly and easily.
    I plan to get the harbor freight bearing set and rent any other tools I need. Suggestions?

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  • Dave
    replied
    Quick question - does it matter which side of the bearing goes in first? Mine are FAG bearings like in this picture and they have a bit of a "lip" on one edge.
    Attached Files

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  • Ian F
    replied
    This process looks nearly identical to the procedure for front bearings on a VW MkIV. The big difference being half of the bearing will stay with the hub when you pull the hub out, so there's some extra steps involved.

    I have an OTC hub-tamer set, which I'm sure will do these bearings as well.

    Oddly enough, for the MINI, they went to an assembly where the hub and bearing bolt to the carrier. Much faster to replace, but the downside is it's much more expensive.

    I'm curious if the E30 has a the same whacky hub-nut tightening procedure as the MINI and VW do...

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  • barry
    replied
    Well I guess I need to change my rear wheel bearings, passernger side is making noise,

    The bearings have 525k miles on them. LOL

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