Miller W.A.R. Machine

[NC325iC]

great thread, not only is it good advertising for your products but provides some good info on how to make m20 power with data to back it up.

[brody]

Our 2.5" exhaust is completely open, no cat, and straight through magnaflow muffler. If 3.0" flows enough for 400+ WHP, 2.5 is more than plenty.

[briansjacobs]

It is a single 2.5" We originally made a 3.0" and it was just too big

interesting, with my 2.5l I did mutiple runs on our dyno and founf the best numbers with less restriction

Long tube headers into 3" collector to a supertrapp. ran with 10 plates than 5 plates then no plates. best numbers no plates.

[E30Nova]

Awaiting pics of induction kit...

I want a MAF kit but I might just wait and get the induction kit with it.

[brody]

It is a single 2.5" We originally made a 3.0" and it was just too big

[castros]

Is that a 3'' exhaust?

[brody]

WAR Machine gets a deep breath!

We will have pictures shortly, but what started as just a testing piece has now become a product! The W.A.R. Machine has now been fitted with our upcoming Miller ProStreet Induction Kit!

We are making awesome power with an internally bone stock M20 now! As you can read in the thread, we are busy tinkering with ideas on the M20 to see what works.

Our new ProStreet M20 Induction Kit is a 3" intake with our GENiiiM/Race MAF sensor built right into it. The Intake is routed down in behind the fog light to a cone filter far away from the heat of the rad, and exposed to some nice cool air. This Intake also incorporates stock ICV placement. A further benefit is the light weight aluminum construction saves you a tone of weight compared to stock.

Look at these gains! It is like putting on our MAF all over again! This is Stock vs. our MAF vs. M20 Induction kit with Miller smart fan and HFE.



I will have to get the difference between all the mods mentioned above less the M20 Induction kit too. I will also get some videos because this little car sounds awesome now!

[brody]

also I notice a .5 AFR reading difference when taking readings at the tail pipe as opposed to bung at the collector. next runs will be tuned using the bung. On the dyno I was showing 12.3 at WOT, on the track I was reading 11.9 at WOT. Now another thing to consider is additional air coming in on the track, but not sure how to compensate for that.

Yup, you will notice a change in AFR readings slightly with the probe in the header/downpipe vs. the tail pipe - especially if you have a cat.

As far as the track goes, I have always noticed that is it a hair more rich on the track compared to the dyno just because the dyno will never load it 100% like the street. I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you had some sort of ram air that actually worked.

x2 on pics of the intake setup.

Will you guys be selling that exhaust?

We will have to finish the intake so it is presentable, it was something that was quickly put together for testing and we had no plans to produce it.

As for the exhaust. We have been thinking about offering it but it is pretty expensive and we are not sure it would be worth doing a "kit form" of it.

They are hand built and TIG welded out of sanitary stainless for in house jobs.

[e30 gangsta]

x2 on pics of the intake setup.

Will you guys be selling that exhaust?

[325ix]

Would also like to see pics of the intake set-up.

[briansjacobs]

also I notice a .5 AFR reading difference when taking readings at the tail pipe as opposed to bung at the collector. next runs will be tuned using the bung. On the dyno I was showing 12.3 at WOT, on the track I was reading 11.9 at WOT. Now another thing to consider is additional air coming in on the track, but not sure how to compensate for that.

[briansjacobs]

I


Did you last M20 actually make power to 8000? I would love to see the graph for that.:-D
!

no typical 2.5 stopped making power at 6400 or so, but nice to be able to pull 5th to 8000 at Daytona. I think with the wind resistance it probably only increased 7-8 mph in that 1500 RPM's but I'll take it.

[brody]

this is great stuff. i plan on WAR ing my stroker as soon as i get the funds to buy it. Hopefully i can get some good support/suggestions when i get it on a dyno to fine tune it... maybe?

For sure! The stroker package comes with the stroker base tune. If you have any questions related to tuning we are always happy to help out. It really is pretty straight forward - if you understand how an engine works, and know how to use a computer the way the WAR Software lays it out is easy to work with.

Heck we have a number of 65+ year old guys that can hardly send and receive an email but are making great power on their M20 race cars and they are doing the tuning!

[brody]

it would be very cool to see those kind of numbers, I am wondering what all the tweaking will do to the power band. What is AFR looking like, I did not see that on the graph.

We were making really good numbers on my car but the AFR was crazy, we tuned my for perfect AFR at WOT and were able to achieve 12.1-12.8 from 2500-6300 RPM. That to me was the best part of the WAR Chip.

I didn't want to clutter the graph with lines everywhere. One LAME thing about our dyno is that the AFR prints out leaner by .8 to 1 full AFR. The AFR meter on the machine reads accurately but by the time it goes into the Mustang controller and displays on the PowerDyne interface it has skewed the reading. Mustang has never been able to come up with a fix.

another thought, I know with my old 2.5 motor at 11.5:1 compression the factory throttle body was adequate to pull me up to 8000 RPM. Now with my 2.8 (diesel crank,10.5:1,1mm bore, and 288 schrick) the motor stops making power at 6300 and will not rev past 7000 at all. I am wondering if this is lack of air due to a restriction, do you think the throttle body mod plus honing intake manifold will have any signifacant gains?

i really only need the RPMS for when I run Daytona, the etra RPMS help alot there.

You will have to see how much vacuum you are pulling at peak power. I will guarantee you will have more vacuum at peak power, see if making it 3.0" all the way to the manifold will be all you need (if vacuum disappears) If you still have a large amount of vacuum (> 0.05) then the manifold is chocking you out.

If you modified your manifold to give it a lot more volume properly like our M30 intakes we make then you could have more air on reserve so you aren't choking.

Here is a quick pick of the modified M30 mani.




Did you last M20 actually make power to 8000? I would love to see the graph for that.:-D

Sweet, also as a side not, got my Miller Maf a week ago and have been loving every minute of driving my car now

Awesome to hear!

[NC325iC]

this is great stuff. i plan on WAR ing my stroker as soon as i get the funds to buy it. Hopefully i can get some good support/suggestions when i get it on a dyno to fine tune it... maybe?