Nice report and photos 8-)
Have you already got some driving experience with it?
Can you recommend this KIT?
I am also thinking about purchasing a miller 3" MAF + War chip.
But I don´t really like their 3" rubber elbow. So i am not really sure what to do...
Maybe I´m going to use a 2,5" to 3" reducer elbow and make my own piping, similar to the Miller one.
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Recieved my PSIK and War chip yesterday, so i thought id give a quick install review.
Ill start out with the particulars of my e30. it is an early model (86 e) with a late model stroker in it. I have also completed a e36 rack swap using the factory e30 high pres hose.
so, install is pretty simple. The rubber elbow they have is a 3inch 90 degree piece, on the m20 throttle side it has a little insert to step it down the the right size (2.5"?) This little piece while effective is a bit of a PITA. it slides out fairly easily, it also adds about 1/4" length to the end of the elbow meaning that you dont get as much engagement with the actual elbow and the TB as you might like. When i put on the clamp i made sure to have it half and half on the elbow and the insert. Note 2 about the elbow, that rubber is really sticky, have some windex on hand to aid with installing it. The ICV in my case is in a really strange position, its pushed out enough that it is right on top of the dipstick, i can still remove the dipstick but just barely. Perhaps relocating the ICV and including a longer hose from ICV to TB would be better. Now the other end, the filter must be installed before you bolt up the tube, which is a bit annoying. Also i have to relocate my horn, which isn't a problem at all and it says that in the manual. On to the pictures. As youll see there is a bit of a problem with the early model filter location, which in dry weather it will certainly provide lots of free flowing air, if its raining there is nothing to block the rain from the filter.
edit: forgot to mention that with the rack swap i have the HP hose turned around so the metal tube side is on the pump, in order to fit the intake i had to bend the metal tube on the HP line so its got about 1/4" of space between it and the intake.
Last edited by NC325iC; 02-15-2011, 06:01 PM.
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Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Postwow man that seems extremely rich but if you dyned it.
Is that for max power or some sort of safety net?
If you hear knock you retard ignition timing
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lean blows motors! this for us is the perfect mix of performance and safety/longevity.
if you have been WOT and heard the baby rattler you aim for the 12's
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wow man that seems extremely rich but if you dyned it.
Is that for max power or some sort of safety net?
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At WOT we acheive 12.3 constant from 3000 RPM to my shift point of 6300 RPM with a few points higher and lower 2500 RPM-7000 RPM. With that said we have many many hours of dyno time and my mechanic is an SCCA national run offs champion who's shop is mostly race car prep.
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Originally posted by briansjacobs View Postwith someone that knows what they are doing I would guess peak HP would gain more than 2 but less than 10. however it is more conceivable to have more useable power and a better AFR. My car has near perfect AFR at WOT from 2500 RPM to 7000 RPM, you will not get that on any pre burned chip not made for your specific car with your specific mods.
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Originally posted by Mike30e View PostWell, I've never done any tuning in this manner, so with someone who knows what they are doing how much of a difference can this set up make on the eta? Anyone with an eta using this?
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your results depend on your ability to tune
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Originally posted by Mike30e View PostCan this be used on a eta engine? If so are the results for overall performance better than just using a MarkD or TMS chip?
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Can this be used on a eta engine? If so are the results for overall performance better than just using a MarkD or TMS chip?
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The problem is entirely resolved and avoided when mounting a cold air intake that draws from such a low level on the vehicle by installing a bypass coupler, I believe AEM or some similar tuner part manufacturer ells cheap ones.
It's simply a coupler, like a silicone coupler, which installs higher up in the intake pipe so that should the filter become submerged fully in water, the pressure created in the intake trying to vacuum up that water into the engine causes the valve to open alloing the engine to breathe through the filter around the coupler.
I have seen a video on streetfire or somewhere similar of an nsx with piping run off the intake and the pipe submerged into a 100gal tank of water witht he engine running at 3/4k rpm or so to prove the effectiveness of the device.
It's a simple and intelligent moification that makes such a catastropic event impossible.
However simply ingesting misted water won't destroy or even damage your engine, it takes a briefly sustained full submersion of the intakes pickup to draw in and injest a damaging amount of fluid. You can run an intake out the front bumper or hood of a vehicle and drive around in rain all day without issues, the issues becomes a filter mounted under the engine/bumper area which is dunked in a huge standing body of water.
The bypass valves are like a $25/50 thing, cheap insurance for anyone interested.
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