Miller W.A.R. Machine
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No problem.
I have no doubt that emissions would improve with a more precise and more accurate air metering system.
After a bit more driving I can confirm that my biggest pet peeve is indeed resolved (the quirky WOT nonsense), which had been bothering me since I did my 5 speed swap.
Oh, and what's with all the extra happy @ 4200rpm? That wasn't there before... :)Leave a comment:
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u3b3r,
Thanks for the honest review. I will make sure my guys clean out the screw holes more meticulously. And as confirmed the space in front of the MAF is to help with signal quality. These MAF's do have air flow straighteners in front of them which helps out even more so. Also that length was chosen as it replicates the length of the stock AFM.
While you might not pass visual inspection in California, you will surely pass emissions with our MAF :)
Again, thanks for the honest review for all to see. Whenever we get constructive criticism, we take it to heart and do what is possible.Leave a comment:
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I went with the M20 adapter system because I wanted to avoid the extra expense of changing airboxes / plumbing. The BMW airbox + Purolator / MANN filter is hard to beat (PSIK as an example of actually doing better), and that's probably because [bmw's intake] does a good job of not sucking up hot air.Leave a comment:
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I thought it would make more sense to alter the air box cutout (or new airbox) so that it is larger and circular and have the MAF and piping to the TB the same so no transitions and areas where x-section is reduced...
It seems this system maybe won't flow a whole lot more than the AFM setup and maybe why the PSIK makes more gains on top of the original MAF.Leave a comment:
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at the air box interface with MAF/Adapter does that use same sized original opening as the AFM?Leave a comment:
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ideally you want 6" of straight tubing before AND after the MAF. but yes, you are correct in assuming the reason for it being so long.Leave a comment:
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My toys are now here and installed. Here's my take:
It would be nice if the M20 adapter came with studs instead of screw holes. I needed to clean leftover machining waste out the screw holes before I installed it. It would've been nice if that had been done in advance (if only to avoid the risk of dropping tiny metal bits into the MAF itself).
(left side not cleaned out, right side cleaned out)
The M20 airbox adapter + MAF assembly is rather long; in that the AFM rear support tab has to be cut off in order to get it to line up right. I assume that this is necessary to provide smooth airflow to the MAF sensor. (tried flipping it over, can't do that either) The other obvious reason is to make it long enough to attach to the bellows (perhaps to also avoid additional machining costs involved in moving the MAF further forwards). I also noticed that the MAF housing is slightly larger in diameter than the metal end of the AFM. Fortunately, the bellows on mine are in good shape, and didn't tear while I worked on it in 17F weather.
Instead of the solder job that miller suggests in the install manual, I chose to solder in wires with insulated spade terminals, so that should I need to revert to stock for inspections (like if I move to California, god forbid) I can do so easily. Don't worry, I labeled the connectors.
I used a grommet for the TCM and USB cables for obvious reasons.
My only other issue *is* the lack of win7 friendly software. My current spare XP laptop lacks both wifi and ethernet, so that makes it unusable with the WAR software installer. I'm told that new software is coming out soon.
As for impressions after getting it running (took me a bit due to the software not copying the tunes on to the blank chip, and it not starting), are excellent. It's a definite win on the butt dyno (mind you, that's the butt dyno, it means nothing), but what's more important are the lack of odd behavior when cold (depending on which AFM I had installed before, it would sometimes bog down at certain low RPMs, have trouble the first time I tried to move out of a parking space, or have a power hole at about 1200rpm, for example), and the lack of hiccuping @ WOT above 3.5-4K rpm.
I can honestly say the car hasn't run this well in quite some time.
Also, please don't take the criticisms too harshly, I am only providing them on the basis of full disclosure.Last edited by u3b3rg33k; 12-29-2010, 04:07 PM.Leave a comment:
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Just ordered a MAF+WAR+M20 adapter. Time to replace my now useless AFM.Leave a comment:
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Ready to get the first mod for my car. This looks like one, its just kinda difficult for me to drop the cash. My first mod is going to cost almost as much as I payed for the car.Leave a comment:
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Well, that is kind of a tough question. It depends on what you need. Our Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is considered to be a replacement item for someone who is doing maintenance on their car and want a bit more control.
Our WAR Chip is not 100% necessary in all cases, again, it is just something people like to have control of... Also the customer has a lot of accessories to choose from which increases final price but makes life easier.
So that leaves a few things that are straight up inline for your list.
PSIK with traditional style chip - 649.00
Smart Fan Controller w software update - 200.00
Fuel Pressure Regulator - 199.00
Miller Signature Exhaust (if local) - 1200.00
Totaling $2,248.00, WHP gained 30 or more. WHP/$ = $74.93Leave a comment:

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