is it normal for the fuel injectors to turn off on the down rev when revving in neutral?
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soo, I've been messing with it for a few hours, checked for vacuum leaks and tightened all clamps. I removed the line on my oil cap vent and put my finger over it to try and see if it would change my idle but it didn't change anything and also it pulls quite the strong vacuum threw it. I drove it about 5 miles and it stalled out on me once when I put the clutch in. went home rechecked everything again and discovered something really weird....
IN neutral when revving the car my MPG goes up when I step on the gas. This combined with the fact that its cutting fuel on the down rev has me thinking that somehow the computer thinks my car is in drive or something......
thinking maybe I need to replace my TPSLast edited by kamotors; 03-21-2012, 02:01 PM.
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If you don't know how to tune the ignition timing, you should buy some literature. Next I would find an ECU from a 5spd car and swap it out. If they're the same, I would trace every wire that has to do with the auto tranny and snip it. Sounds like it's not opening the ICV enough on the down rev and that's why you're stalling. Try advancing the Idle ignition timing just a couple degrees and see what happens.
Are you sure you didn't cut the idle wire on the TPS instead of the WOT wire?
The more I learn about the Miller W.A.R. the more i think it's a hack job at best. :down:
What I don't understand is that if the DME computes Inj PW based on load vs RPM in the part throttle fuel maps and you've cut the WOT wire on your TPS, how is it that you're running so rich in first and not any other gear? Load is Load and RPM is RPM, it doesn't matter what gear you're in.Comment
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the ECUs are the same(i'm not even using the original ECU). I've read on up the ignition tuning in the WAR program and feel more confident now. I got the concept just wasnt sure what the number truly represented in the program but after re-reading the manual its clear now. My car does idle(although not all the time) I would say 90% of the time the car idles pretty stable the other 10% in wanders. It seems like the ICV isn't reacting quick enough causing my stall issue. There were no wires on the auto trans so not sure what the issue is. 90% of the time while moving I can put in the clutch and the car will simply turn off.
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I advanced my idle ignition from 10degrees to 14degrees and the response improved greatly but it still dips down on the down rev to about 450-500rpms and then catches itself and returns to around 750. If i gradually let the rpms drop my injectors dont turn off and it doesn't dip at all if I rev it to 3.5 and up and simply let off is when it tries to stall out.
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The tuning books i've been reading talk about how the ICV can only do so much and you have to adjust the idle timing advance to give the ICV a better window of operating range. IIRC, it's something about how the timing can respond faster to engine load changes than the ICV.Comment
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So thanks to bwawuz02 the car does not stall at all in between shifts. I couldn't for the life of me get it to stall out between shifts today. My idle is wandering occasionally but that's easier to deal with. 14degrees advance at idle,4 more degrees than the base map and now it works!
thanks for the tip.
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more than happy to help :up:Comment
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besides the obvious issues that I have posted in this thread the WAR chip in itself really does perform well. Its easy to use and I didnt pay too much for it. It seems that all the issues I had are due to the turbo base tune which simply doesn't work with my car well. I live around 6k elevation so I'm guessing that has apart to play with it as well.
War Chip=good
M20 turbo basetune=doesn't work to well for my car.
to fix wandering idle=hopefully TPS
to fix first gear stutter issue=better differential ratio
to fix stalling=simply added 4 degrees of timing to idle map at my specific RPM
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do you have atleast 6" of straight piping before the MAF? why did you run a draw-through with a bov, flamethrower exhaust?:p
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not possible with my turbo/manifold I have like 2 inches.
umm my car does run well enough that a BOV does not make it even back fire between shifts. Most it dips to is 10AFR.However running NO BOV equaled plenty of flames with low 9AFR between shifts which wasn't very fun.
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I believe DME cuts fuel on closed throttle under decel - at least from what I've read from old literature.
I had a stalling problem with my 153 after swapping to a 5 speed with the A/C on - if I stepped on the clutch as the A/C turned on (while decelerating), it would drop below the fuel cut in point, and it would stall before it could open the ICV.
I also had mad hunting issues with the A/C on with the 153, it would nearly bog out and die after idling for a few minutes.
The 173 seems much better at it, but when the ICV is cold it still does it a bit. I think the only solution is a NEW ICV, as mine is as clean as a whistle, and moves freely - there must be the tiniest bit of difference that messes with the (static tabled?) hysteresis values.
Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe
Originally posted by Top Gear
Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.
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A new ICV isnt too expensive so I'll likely pick one up just for the heck of it in the future
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As for your idle speeds, did you set all the values for the different temps? I forgot a field when messing with mine, so when it was cold it would use the default speed, then speed up as it warmed up.
Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe
Originally posted by Top Gear
Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.
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so replaced the TPS and started the car and noticed I had a crazy surgin idle, looked for vac leaks for a few minutes and then just realized that the TPS was unplugged accidentally, doing that made me discover something...
with the TPS unplugged the car my MPG gauge stays at zero like it should in neutral. and my injectors don't turn off on the free rev down rev and the car doesn't even stutter a bit when letting off the gas.
the TPS is brand new and set correctly to click when the throttle is closed.My injectors still turn off when letting off the gas free revving the motor but it never died from it and I drove around 40miles today and everything was bearable. my idle still surges a bit but its completely random and only did it maybe twice in those 40miles.
I was satisfied and made a new tune and turned up the boost to about 11psi in 3rd. It was bit leaner than I like at 12.9 under boost so I richened it up a bit but haven't driven it since then.
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