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15 pin plug/splicer loom MSPNP?

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    15 pin plug/splicer loom MSPNP?

    Hi everyone

    Can anyone tell me where I can get a 15 pin plug/splicer loom for the MS PNP?
    I have had a trawl online and can't seem to find anything that will do the job. Most of the 15 pin plugs are 3 row not the 2 row found on the MSPNP.

    I'd really appreciate some help here as I want to delete the distributor, and also run sequential ignition.

    Thanks in advance

    #2
    www.diyautotune.com?

    I'm not really sure what you're asking for. picture?
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Nando

      this is what I want to connect to:
      Click image for larger version

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      The manual says I need to connect optional inputs/sensors to these pins. What i'm trying to find is a plug, with wires attached preferably, so I can do so.

      Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        Something like this?

        15 Pin DSub Connector

        Comment


          #5
          ah.

          well, you don't want those, they are cables, what you want is a connector that you can hook your own wires to.

          My advice is to look for one with crimp on pins (you crimp the pins on the wires, then push them into the plug). the little solder cup connections suck. I'm sure you could find one on mouser.com or digikey.com. Dunno about shipping to Australia but it can't be that bad for something so light.

          Something like this:


          and this but DB15 instead of DB37:


          if you look within the same family you will find a DB15.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by nando View Post
            ah.

            well, you don't want those, they are cables, what you want is a connector that you can hook your own wires to.

            My advice is to look for one with crimp on pins (you crimp the pins on the wires, then push them into the plug). the little solder cup connections suck. I'm sure you could find one on mouser.com or digikey.com. Dunno about shipping to Australia but it can't be that bad for something so light.

            Something like this:


            and this but DB15 instead of DB37:


            if you look within the same family you will find a DB15.

            I did find that type of connector but the freight was prohibitive, $55 in one instance, $68 in another. So I looked closer to home. My local electronics store had the correct plug, just not the crimp type. So i bought a soldering iron and a positive attitude and am about to set to work. Wish me luck!


            Thanks Nando

            Comment


              #7
              You can do it.
              Get some heat shrink and slide it up over the wires a few inches back from the bare wires,dont shrink it yet. Tin the wires first,then fill the solder cup in the pins with solder by touching the side of the pin with the iron and melting the solder into it.Apply flux to the surfaces before you solder.

              Clean any flux off of the face of the connctor so it doesnt melt the plastic when you resolder.A little more flux and touch the side of the pin with your tip and insert the wire when the solder melts.clean it all up with rubbing alcohol and a brush,a tooth brush works well.
              When you are done just slide the heat shrink down over the pins and shrink it to insulate the wires from each other.An alternative is to use rtv to fill it.
              I would make sure that all your wiring is isolated from each other by doing a continuity test on them before you plug it in,a short circuit would ruin your day and possibly your ecu.
              Have fun.let us know how it turns out.
              1990 325is "the rat"/ E30 Warsteiner tribute racecar/1985 325e "faded Glory"/ 1968 Chevy II Nova "the baby"/ 2001 525i 5spd purchased May 2013 with 16k miles. Plus other junk that annoys the neighbors.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by SGT4677 View Post
                You can do it.
                Get some heat shrink and slide it up over the wires a few inches back from the bare wires,dont shrink it yet. Tin the wires first,then fill the solder cup in the pins with solder by touching the side of the pin with the iron and melting the solder into it.Apply flux to the surfaces before you solder.

                Clean any flux off of the face of the connctor so it doesnt melt the plastic when you resolder.A little more flux and touch the side of the pin with your tip and insert the wire when the solder melts.clean it all up with rubbing alcohol and a brush,a tooth brush works well.
                When you are done just slide the heat shrink down over the pins and shrink it to insulate the wires from each other.An alternative is to use rtv to fill it.
                I would make sure that all your wiring is isolated from each other by doing a continuity test on them before you plug it in,a short circuit would ruin your day and possibly your ecu.
                Have fun.let us know how it turns out.
                Thanks SGT4677

                Unfortunately I'd finished before I read your post. Remarkably, what I did do was very similar to you've suggested. My technique is not quite a polished as yours, but I think the results are OK.
                Click image for larger version

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                Click image for larger version

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                So with the heat shrink, do you mean to use something larger than the back of the plug and shrink it down between the wires?

                I don't really want to fill it with a resin in case I wish to add wires/functionality later.

                Oh yeah, I did have fun.

                Thanks also to Nando

                Comment


                  #9
                  Nando was right,those little d-subs are a pain and it takes a lot of practice to get them perfect.Kudos to you for tackling this project.I do lot of custom aviation electrical modifications so I have the tools to do these jobs.

                  I use heat shrink thats just large enough to fit over the pin and bare wire junction,and shrink it over each pin.I've found repairs using teflon tape or self vulcanizing rubberized tape ( scotch 70 is one that I use often.) instead of heatshrink.There are inexpensive commercially available tapes that are available.
                  The sealant option works well but yes its a pain to clean it all out when you need to add wires.
                  1990 325is "the rat"/ E30 Warsteiner tribute racecar/1985 325e "faded Glory"/ 1968 Chevy II Nova "the baby"/ 2001 525i 5spd purchased May 2013 with 16k miles. Plus other junk that annoys the neighbors.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by SGT4677 View Post
                    Nando was right,those little d-subs are a pain and it takes a lot of practice to get them perfect.Kudos to you for tackling this project.I do lot of custom aviation electrical modifications so I have the tools to do these jobs.

                    I use heat shrink thats just large enough to fit over the pin and bare wire junction,and shrink it over each pin.I've found repairs using teflon tape or self vulcanizing rubberized tape ( scotch 70 is one that I use often.) instead of heatshrink.There are inexpensive commercially available tapes that are available.
                    The sealant option works well but yes its a pain to clean it all out when you need to add wires.
                    Mission accomplished. Thanks to everyone for the pointers and the support :D

                    Comment

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