Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread

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  • justinpirie
    replied
    Originally posted by Joegreen02
    I don't know how to check duty cycle [emoji2357]

    Gonna have to figure out how to tell ms I changed injectors too. So there is that lol.


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    In megalog!


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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread

    I don't know how to check duty cycle [emoji2357]

    Gonna have to figure out how to tell ms I changed injectors too. So there is that lol.


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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Originally posted by justinpirie
    Cool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?


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    It pulls hard up to 5000 power is great. After that she is still floundering doesn't fall on its face but it's still missing. Sounds like a wet distributor cap so I've got a new cap and rotor I'm about to through in there too. Edwardo estimated 170ish to the wheels once the fuel supply is there. I'm doing the injector swap now.




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  • justinpirie
    replied
    Originally posted by Joegreen02
    I was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol

    Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss


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    Cool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?


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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Originally posted by justinpirie
    I’ve found a fuel pressure gauge or sensor is the best place to start there. Don’t swap pumps until you’ve verified it’s the culprit.


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    I was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol

    Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss


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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Originally posted by Digitalwave
    On TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.


    Gonna try this out right now. Thanks


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  • justinpirie
    replied
    I’ve found a fuel pressure gauge or sensor is the best place to start there. Don’t swap pumps until you’ve verified it’s the culprit.


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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    On TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.

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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread



    On the dyno this morning. Everything went pretty good. This guy at sanoli performance Edward is the real thing. Definitely knows his MS and making power. I brought it in on the tune I had running and put down. 123 hp on the initial pull. He did a little tweeting and boom 148 hp 157 trq he kept fooling around with it till he wound up at 153hp 167 trq. Pretty respectable for a mostly stock car I think. [emoji2369]

    Problem. The missing above 5k is still there. He thought it was fuel cut and recommended doing the injectors and a 255 pump. I have the walbro 255 in the tank now but still have the missing issue over 5k

    Question. How do I properly check the action and sync of this crank sensor? I have a brand spanking new bmw cps in the car now about to start pissing with the injectors.

    Just FYI my goal for the car is 250 hp and close to 300 trq at the wheels via FI once I have these little issues settled and decide what size turbo I really need for my style of shenanigans

    Second question how much turn out of that screw in the blue box can I expect to make a difference in cps sensitivity. When I was messing with it before I couldn't get it to lose or gain anything on the tooth logger[emoji2369]


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  • turbski
    replied
    if I wanted to see how my injectors are running using megalog viewer would the correct plot to be looking at be pulse width and duty cycle1?

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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Originally posted by Digitalwave
    If you don't have any sync loss, it's not the CPS. It's probably breaking up because it's untuned.


    I gotcha. Yeah honestly like I said, I'm not terribly familiar with tuning. I thought since I paid a grand for the mspnp2 system it would come out of the box with a tune similar to what Turner Motorsport did with the chip, and the car would run even better and be custom tunable out of the box. My miss perception of the product is all.


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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    If you don't have any sync loss, it's not the CPS. It's probably breaking up because it's untuned.

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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Originally posted by Digitalwave
    It sounds like all of your issues is because you have not tuned the car at all. You can't download some base map and expect your car to run properly on it.


    Yeah I was thinking maybe squirt wasn't getting a good signal from the crank sensor. We will see friday


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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    It sounds like all of your issues is because you have not tuned the car at all. You can't download some base map and expect your car to run properly on it.

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  • Joegreen02
    replied
    Megasquirt Timing and Fuel Map Thread

    Originally posted by e30davie
    If you set your AFR target table properly I found the auto tune in tuner studio to be awesome. Still requires fine tuning and you have to keep an eye on it, but you just turn it on and start driving around. Within about 30mins my brother and I had my car "tuned" to start, drive, idle quite good with reasonable AFRs across the board.

    The difficulty i think in DIY tuning comes when trying to sort out the air temp correction and acceleration enrichment. Lots of trial and error. Well and ignition timing, but thats a whole other story.


    The problem is I don't currently know what setting the afr table properly would look like. I have tried making several changes to the afr table and ve tables I have the car idling smooth and right where I want it. Blip the throttle and it will not hesitate to Rev to the 6300 limiter I have set for it. Pulls hard from a start to around 5k then starts a little missing cutting out and will not reach that limiter at all running through the gears. 5500 is as fast as it will turn then the cutting out/missing becomes too much for it to make any usable power. I Run the tooth logger and I'm not seeing any of the issues with the CPS as is described in the mega manual or diys manual for possible weak crank reference signal. I opened the box and turned the screw several full turns and I don't see any tooth logger or combination logger changes at all. Does anyone know how many turns that little screw actually has? I can put my OG dme in there with the JC tune and it will rip to the Rev limiter without any issue at all and run golden and fast as fuhh. I found a timing table online to work with that actually feels spot on, with it on the ms2 it feels almost twice as quick to 5k as the dme with turners chip. Although any manipulation of it above 5k makes no positive or negative change in the missing over 5k issue. I'm also currently running the tuner studio ultra. I'm not sure if that's the fanciest one you can get. I'll buy what ever though. We will see what happens Friday morning. I'll post the dyno pulls and if we discover the issue I'll be sure to post that as well


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    Last edited by Joegreen02; 04-10-2019, 04:38 AM.

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