Turbo woes
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I am using aem I did wire it through the stock sensor plug and yes it powered up fine. I also
Ran the Analog signal wire from the gauge to the
Signal wire that goes to the ecu but for some reason it seem like the not seeing the signal.
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Hey what wideband are you using? Did you wire it through the stock sensor plug?
Is there a seperate wb gaugeLeave a comment:
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check your ground and sensor on the wideband. either could be bad.Leave a comment:
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hey whats up guys more turbo woes cant seem to get the afr reading threw whodwho built
ecu.anyone have this problem been trying for a while now.Leave a comment:
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I am just happy the car revs to 7000rpm might I say it pretty quick too
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Not just MS. Almost all of the stand alone computers have done this to me one way or another. Remember that yellow 951 (944)? lol.Leave a comment:
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Well you know as well as I; that's the difference between a production EMS designed by a team of engineers with a big budget and all of the test equipment in the business, and an adaptable EMS designed by a few dedicated engineers to be built from cheap kits.
I suspect with a better VR conditioner circuit or more time spent tuning the stock one, MS could tolerate the same range of sensor gap adjustment.Leave a comment:
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They do bend some without breaking, but more importantly, the mounting holes are much larger than the bolt threads - BMW left room for adjustment. ;)Well it is cast aluminum, highly unlikely you'll be able to bend it without breaking it in any case. I'd like to know how they got knocked out of spec in the first place. I know a guy who I caught a while back bending his adjustable cast aluminum brake lever by heating and bending it. He had lowsided the bike and ridden it home with a wonky lever so he wanted to "fix" it. I did him a favor and mid-explanation snapped it off in front of him with surprisingly little effort, as a way of telling him he should put the stock one back on until he could replace the adjustable. That's a good way to kill yourself, bending your cast aluminum brake lever twice then riding with it.
For some reason the Motronic doesn't mind a large gap, unlike the MS. I have suggested this many times on the forums, it's common.Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 12-05-2016, 02:57 PM.Leave a comment:
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Update just got the cps gap problem
Fixed thanks guys
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Well it is cast aluminum, highly unlikely you'll be able to bend it without breaking it in any case. I'd like to know how they got knocked out of spec in the first place. I know a guy who I caught a while back bending his adjustable cast aluminum brake lever by heating and bending it. He had lowsided the bike and ridden it home with a wonky lever so he wanted to "fix" it. I did him a favor and mid-explanation snapped it off in front of him with surprisingly little effort, as a way of telling him he should put the stock one back on until he could replace the adjustable. That's a good way to kill yourself, bending your cast aluminum brake lever twice then riding with it.Last edited by varg; 11-19-2016, 11:16 AM.Leave a comment:
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Funny you should bring this up I just started to try and adjust my but broke the cps holder I just order one what a bummer I hope it work for me too. Thanks guys got all your help will update.
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Ok my issue is resolved. Sorry for cluttering this thread up with a lot of unnessesary info. It was way easier than i was making it. Check your cps gap between the cps and the toothed wheel. Its supposed to be 1mm +- .3mm. Mine was almost 2mm. I loosened the 2 13mm bolts and it didnt seem to have any adjustment so i used a prybar gently and got it to like .7mm. Instantly my car could rev all the way to 7 grand.Leave a comment:
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dont post a video. Post the log file. take a tooth log and a regular log and attach the file to your post.Last edited by kyleconstantine; 11-18-2016, 03:35 PM.Leave a comment:
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Whodwho's always been slow to respond but he has always got back to me. hes got a lot of guys hitting him up everyday and im pretty sure he has a full time job outside of this.
I'm not 100% sure my sensor is genuine bmw, it's been in the car for a while. I had purchased a brand new one that was maybe hella but that one has this issue at 4k rpms instead of 5k so I switched back. they seem to have a lot of variance in the signal strength which is why different resisters are needed. So I'm thinking ill need a larger resister to cut the signal down at higher rpms contrary to what i said before?
I don't have an oscilloscope but looking at my tooth logger it looks like the teeth are all showing up they just all get shorter which is why I had originally thought I needed a smaller resister.
edit: if you google around there is a thread exactly like this on e30tech thats down...same questions with one of whodwhos units and it probably has the solution in it already but the page is down...Leave a comment:

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