Here isthe ignition Low Part Throttle timing map. You might be able to extrapolate values to your Map sensor values. And atleast the changed by RPM should be consistent.
RPM in the left column. AFM value in top row.
14 38 48 60 74 90 110 130
680 20 20 21 24 24 16 7 2
800 21 21 21 24 24 16 10 6
1120 22 22 22 24 24 18 15 10
1440 31 29 26 24 24 20 19 15
1760 39 37 33 30 29 25 25 20
2080 39 37 33 31 30 28 28 24
2680 39 37 34 31 30 30 30 30
2920 39 37 34 31 30 30 30 28
3620 35 33 32 30 28 26 24 19
4000 35 33 32 30 28 26 24 19
4520 33 32 31 30 30 28 25 23
4820 33 32 31 30 29 26 22 18
5000 33 32 31 30 29 25 21 16
5220 39 38 37 36 35 33 30 27
5520 39 39 38 37 36 36 34 31
6000 39 39 39 38 37 36 30 27
High part throttle goes from:
130 150 170 175 180 190
Let me know if these values would be interesting.
Here is the WOT map:
RPM Deg. Advance
800 1
1200 8
1800 17
2400 21
3000 30
3800 30
4200 18
4360 18
4520 22
4800 22
5040 15
5240 15
5480 24
5600 29
5840 29
6200 24
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I am working on reprogramming the ECU with an Ostrich 2.0 emulator.
The ignition table looks familiar.
You could take the stock values for ignition. Using Tuner Pro and a definition file, and the BIN file, you can see the ignition advance. There are a number of tables. Idle, Low part throttle, High part throttle and WOT.
If you don't want to install TunerPro, I can try to figure out how to convey the values. Either a screen shot, or a comma separated file...Leave a comment:
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I am running a Arduino Mega 2560, using it because that's what I had laying around. I think to run the Teensy boards you have to build an adapter and do some modifications to the Teensy (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/external_power.html).Leave a comment:
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Very cool, and great job documenting everything you are doing. Since the Speeduino platform seems to have a bunch of different MCU cores (Arduinos, Teensy boards, etc), which one are you running? I have seen a lot of guys starting to run the Teensy 3.x boards since they pack so much performance in, and now the Teensy 4.x ones are like >3x faster!Leave a comment:
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Sartup/Idle -> Cranking Settings
Tuning -> VE Table
This has not been tuned by a professional or anyone that knows what they are doing. I have changed some values around and the car cranks.
It will run pretty rich ~11 AFR when idling at 1100 RPM.
If anyone knows how to tune and has some time, reach out to me and we can connect and get a base tune setup.
Tuning -> Spark Table
Same thing here, I left this alone. I'm sure most of these values are incorrect but it seems to work for just cranking the car.
Startup/Idle
Starting out I am using PWM Open Loop.
After doing tons of digging I found a post somewhere saying it is 90hz.
Setting the duty cycle to 38 seems to make the car idle ~1100 rpm.
33 was about 800 rpm
45 was about 1400 rpm
I think you want to find the frequency that gives you the most adjustment, so I pulled the ICV off and played around with it.
At 100hz the valve is fully open at duty cycle 70 and fully closed at 34
At 80hz fully open at 84, fully closed at 33
At 60hz fully open at 83, fully closed at 31
I think the best value to use is probably a little lower than 90hz, but you should play around with your ICV to get the best settings.
Before starting the car
Make sure you have all of your sensors calibrated by going to Tools -> Calibrate {sensor}
Your IAT and Coolant temp should be around the same temp before you first crank the car, if not the sensors might not be configured correctly.
You may want to start by unplugging your ICV, setting the Idle Control type to none, and just adjusting how much air your engine gets by using the screw on the throttle body to open/close it.
I'm sure there are many other things you want to check before cranking the car for the first time, this thread is still a work in progress.
I will update this post with new information and update the things I have wrong once I figure this out. Hopefully this helps someone that is looking to build a Speeduino get started. If anyone knows how to tune and wants to contribute, reach out to me and we can get something set up, and if any of my settings look completely wrong please let me know and I will update them.Last edited by sk8; 02-12-2021, 08:01 AM.Leave a comment:
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TunerStudio Configuration:
I can not find any M20B25 base tune for Speeduino. On the Speeduino forums there is a base tune for the M50TU so I took that as a base tune and started tweaking settings. I'm sure a lot of the following settings are wrong, but I was able to get the car to crank and "run" with these settings. I have never tuned a car before so I am very new to this. Please let me know if any of these are wrong and I will do my best to keep this post updated.
Settings -> Engine Constants:
My engine has stock injectors which I think are 14.2, if you have different injectors you will want to update the Requried Fuel value.
From documentation I read somewhere, you want to keep your (ms) in required fuel between 10-14 for best operation. You can change the Squirts Per Engine Cycle and Injector Staging which will change your ms value.
Settings -> Injector Characteristics:
I didn't change these at all from the base tune provided for the M50TU engine. I don't know much about what is supposed to be here.
Settings -> Trigger Settings
The crank has 60 teeth and 2 missing.
Ran into a really weird issue with trigger angle, initially had 84 for the angle. Car would start up but definitely knocked and didn't run right. Bought a timing light and verified the trigger angle and 84 was not correct, the value needed was 50 for the trigger angle which is really weird, but car ran great. When I went to upgrade to wasted spark I was having issues with the car starting. Pulled my timing light out again and verified the trigger angle with wasted spark, and it changed from 50 to 276. Not sure why the trigger angle would be different when using the stock cap/rotor and going to wasted spark, but 276 lines up with what everyone else seems to be running on a m20.
Spark -> Spark Settings
For Spark Output Mode set it to Single Channel if you are using the stock distributor.
With a Speeduino make sure you have the Spark Outputs Triggers set to Going Low.
If it is set to going high, when you turn your ignition key to the on position you will start smelling burning plastic and Q1 on your board will get extremely hot and start smoking.
Spark -> Dwell Settings
Last edited by sk8; 02-12-2021, 07:53 AM.Leave a comment:
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Changes to the car needed:
TPS
The stock TPS on the e30 only has 3 modes, closed, open, and wide open. We need a TPS that reads throttle percentage. Most people use a TPS from an E36 and convert the wiring harness.
You will need to fab up a bracket to adapt the e36 TPS to the e30, or order one online.
There is a great writeup on this that has part numbers for the connectors and wiring in this thread https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ild-and-wiring
If you end up buying the connectors, make sure to buy the sockets with it, otherwise you will just get a connector and have to make another order for the sockets (Ask me how I know).
IAT Sensor
You can use the default one that is in the AFM, but I think it's better to use a GM open air sensor. What I did was removed the AFM, and used a PVC pipe in its place. I tapped a hole in the PVC pipe for the sensor. The new IAT sensor will still wire into the stock harness. It is the two outside pins, pin 1 and pin 4. I don't think orientation for this sensor matters since our ECU just measures the resistance to tell the temperature.
Wideband
You will need a wideband o2 sensor and a controller for the sensor. I ordered the SLC 2 Free from 14point7. Unfortunately I think I got a defective controller the readings don't change and the sensor doesn't heat up. I have a replacement on the way. For now I am borrowing a LC-2 wideband controller from a friend.
The wiring for this is pretty straight forward. You will need to wire the positive lead from the controller to the fuel pump relay, or something that gets power when the key is turned to the on position, if anyone has better suggestions please let me know. The ground can go to the negative terminal on battery or a ground anywhere on the chassis. The wideband output will go to the bottom middle pin in the IO header on the Speeduino.
If you are using an LC-2 wideband controller and just bench testing it you may have issues reading the output in tuner studio if the Speeduino and wideband controller doesn't share a ground.
Vacuum line for the MAP sensor
I have a vacuum line running from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, so I just used a T fitting on that line and added a vacuum line from the T fitting to the Speeduino.
Last edited by sk8; 09-08-2020, 11:19 AM.Leave a comment:
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Speeduino build for M20B25
Introduction:
The reason I'm starting this thread because I don't see any other threads on here using Speeduino ECU for the M20B25. I am completely new to tuning/aftermarket ECUs, so I can pretty much guarantee that some of the info I will post in this thread will be completely wrong. After doing some research on aftermarket ECU options there really doesn't seem to be anything budget friendly other than reprogramming the ECU. The cheapest option(other than a Speeduino) seems to be a Megasquirt PnP which is ~$750. The Speeduino should be ~$150 in parts, so I decided to give it a try, and if I failed it wouldn't be a bad price for a good learning experience. I plan to update this post as I go along tuning and figuring out the correct setting for my car.
Goal:
I am building up my e30 and slowly getting it running NA. Eventually I want to turbo it, and do it on a budget. It's my first real project car and it isn't my daily so I'm ok with making some mistakes. The end goal for this thread is hopefully to gather enough information so people can have an easier time setting things up.
Resources:
I am using a custom Speeduino PCB designed to fit in the original ECU box designed by Raku on the Speeduino forums: https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2667
Speeduino setup wiki: https://wiki.speeduino.com/
Great writeup on MegaSquirt, but has tons of useful information for us about wiring: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ild-and-wiring
Speeduino base tunes for M50TU engine, this is not a base tune for the M20: https://github.com/pazi88/Speeduino-...P/Base%20Tunes
PCB Build:
Had to order the custom PCB from JLPCB, the design for it can be found on the Speeduino forums, the specific board revision is 1.7 if anyone is following along. There was a minimum order quantity, so I ended up ordering 10 pcbs, if anyone needs a PCB pm me.
The parts can also be found on the Speeduino forums and can be ordered from multiple websites. I had issues finding all of the parts, and didn't want to wait a long time for some to come back in stock so I ended up ordering most of them from WTMtronics. Doing it this way is a little pricier, but helped me out a lot. I just sent the part list to the guy that owns WTMtronics and he sent me back a list of the parts he had in stock and which ones he was missing.
Building the board was pretty straight forward, just pull up the BOM which tells you which parts goes to what location and just solder it in. A helpful tool when doing this is opening the PCB file in easyDEA and then you can ctrl + f and search for the part location to speed up the process of trying to find where to solder the specific parts. Be careful not to solder every single part on the board since there is a circuit on the board for the active low and active high clutch. You need to figure out which one your car has and solder that. Mine is not soldered because I don't have either since I did and auto to manual swap and never bothered installing a clutch switch. It's not needed unless you plan to do launch control or flat shift.
When soldering the parts I like using a solder that has lead in it because it seems a lot easier to work with. If you don't have a soldering iron, I would recommend a TS100 soldering iron.
If you want to use the stock Crank Position Sensor you will also need to buy a VR Conditioner. This converts the signal from our CPS to a signal that our ECU can read. You will need to solder SJ1 pin 2 and 3 on the board if using a VR Conditioner.
Here is the complete board, you can see that I have the clutch components missing, and I also have Q2 missing. The reason Q2 is missing is because I ended up burning up Q1 when I first plugged the board into my car because I had the spark output trigger as going high instead of going low. I didn't have extra parts so I removed Q2 and replaced Q1 with it. I don't think Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6 is needed unless you are running wasted spark. I am currently running the stock distributor and it seems to only use q1.
The only solder joint configurations that I have soldered for my setup are SJ1 pin 2 and 3. You would solder SJ1 pin 1 and 2, SJ4, and SJ3 if using a Hall-Effect CPS.
Last edited by sk8; 09-08-2020, 11:42 AM.
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