Introduction:
The reason I'm starting this thread because I don't see any other threads on here using Speeduino ECU for the M20B25. I am completely new to tuning/aftermarket ECUs, so I can pretty much guarantee that some of the info I will post in this thread will be completely wrong. After doing some research on aftermarket ECU options there really doesn't seem to be anything budget friendly other than reprogramming the ECU. The cheapest option(other than a Speeduino) seems to be a Megasquirt PnP which is ~$750. The Speeduino should be ~$150 in parts, so I decided to give it a try, and if I failed it wouldn't be a bad price for a good learning experience. I plan to update this post as I go along tuning and figuring out the correct setting for my car.
Goal:
I am building up my e30 and slowly getting it running NA. Eventually I want to turbo it, and do it on a budget. It's my first real project car and it isn't my daily so I'm ok with making some mistakes. The end goal for this thread is hopefully to gather enough information so people can have an easier time setting things up.
Resources:
I am using a custom Speeduino PCB designed to fit in the original ECU box designed by Raku on the Speeduino forums: https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2667
Speeduino setup wiki: https://wiki.speeduino.com/
Great writeup on MegaSquirt, but has tons of useful information for us about wiring: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ild-and-wiring
Speeduino base tunes for M50TU engine, this is not a base tune for the M20: https://github.com/pazi88/Speeduino-...P/Base%20Tunes
PCB Build:
Had to order the custom PCB from JLPCB, the design for it can be found on the Speeduino forums, the specific board revision is 1.7 if anyone is following along. There was a minimum order quantity, so I ended up ordering 10 pcbs, if anyone needs a PCB pm me.
The parts can also be found on the Speeduino forums and can be ordered from multiple websites. I had issues finding all of the parts, and didn't want to wait a long time for some to come back in stock so I ended up ordering most of them from WTMtronics. Doing it this way is a little pricier, but helped me out a lot. I just sent the part list to the guy that owns WTMtronics and he sent me back a list of the parts he had in stock and which ones he was missing.
Building the board was pretty straight forward, just pull up the BOM which tells you which parts goes to what location and just solder it in. A helpful tool when doing this is opening the PCB file in easyDEA and then you can ctrl + f and search for the part location to speed up the process of trying to find where to solder the specific parts. Be careful not to solder every single part on the board since there is a circuit on the board for the active low and active high clutch. You need to figure out which one your car has and solder that. Mine is not soldered because I don't have either since I did and auto to manual swap and never bothered installing a clutch switch. It's not needed unless you plan to do launch control or flat shift.
When soldering the parts I like using a solder that has lead in it because it seems a lot easier to work with. If you don't have a soldering iron, I would recommend a TS100 soldering iron.
If you want to use the stock Crank Position Sensor you will also need to buy a VR Conditioner. This converts the signal from our CPS to a signal that our ECU can read. You will need to solder SJ1 pin 2 and 3 on the board if using a VR Conditioner.
Here is the complete board, you can see that I have the clutch components missing, and I also have Q2 missing. The reason Q2 is missing is because I ended up burning up Q1 when I first plugged the board into my car because I had the spark output trigger as going high instead of going low. I didn't have extra parts so I removed Q2 and replaced Q1 with it. I don't think Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6 is needed unless you are running wasted spark. I am currently running the stock distributor and it seems to only use q1.
The only solder joint configurations that I have soldered for my setup are SJ1 pin 2 and 3. You would solder SJ1 pin 1 and 2, SJ4, and SJ3 if using a Hall-Effect CPS.
The reason I'm starting this thread because I don't see any other threads on here using Speeduino ECU for the M20B25. I am completely new to tuning/aftermarket ECUs, so I can pretty much guarantee that some of the info I will post in this thread will be completely wrong. After doing some research on aftermarket ECU options there really doesn't seem to be anything budget friendly other than reprogramming the ECU. The cheapest option(other than a Speeduino) seems to be a Megasquirt PnP which is ~$750. The Speeduino should be ~$150 in parts, so I decided to give it a try, and if I failed it wouldn't be a bad price for a good learning experience. I plan to update this post as I go along tuning and figuring out the correct setting for my car.
Goal:
I am building up my e30 and slowly getting it running NA. Eventually I want to turbo it, and do it on a budget. It's my first real project car and it isn't my daily so I'm ok with making some mistakes. The end goal for this thread is hopefully to gather enough information so people can have an easier time setting things up.
Resources:
I am using a custom Speeduino PCB designed to fit in the original ECU box designed by Raku on the Speeduino forums: https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2667
Speeduino setup wiki: https://wiki.speeduino.com/
Great writeup on MegaSquirt, but has tons of useful information for us about wiring: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ild-and-wiring
Speeduino base tunes for M50TU engine, this is not a base tune for the M20: https://github.com/pazi88/Speeduino-...P/Base%20Tunes
PCB Build:
Had to order the custom PCB from JLPCB, the design for it can be found on the Speeduino forums, the specific board revision is 1.7 if anyone is following along. There was a minimum order quantity, so I ended up ordering 10 pcbs, if anyone needs a PCB pm me.
The parts can also be found on the Speeduino forums and can be ordered from multiple websites. I had issues finding all of the parts, and didn't want to wait a long time for some to come back in stock so I ended up ordering most of them from WTMtronics. Doing it this way is a little pricier, but helped me out a lot. I just sent the part list to the guy that owns WTMtronics and he sent me back a list of the parts he had in stock and which ones he was missing.
Building the board was pretty straight forward, just pull up the BOM which tells you which parts goes to what location and just solder it in. A helpful tool when doing this is opening the PCB file in easyDEA and then you can ctrl + f and search for the part location to speed up the process of trying to find where to solder the specific parts. Be careful not to solder every single part on the board since there is a circuit on the board for the active low and active high clutch. You need to figure out which one your car has and solder that. Mine is not soldered because I don't have either since I did and auto to manual swap and never bothered installing a clutch switch. It's not needed unless you plan to do launch control or flat shift.
When soldering the parts I like using a solder that has lead in it because it seems a lot easier to work with. If you don't have a soldering iron, I would recommend a TS100 soldering iron.
If you want to use the stock Crank Position Sensor you will also need to buy a VR Conditioner. This converts the signal from our CPS to a signal that our ECU can read. You will need to solder SJ1 pin 2 and 3 on the board if using a VR Conditioner.
Here is the complete board, you can see that I have the clutch components missing, and I also have Q2 missing. The reason Q2 is missing is because I ended up burning up Q1 when I first plugged the board into my car because I had the spark output trigger as going high instead of going low. I didn't have extra parts so I removed Q2 and replaced Q1 with it. I don't think Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6 is needed unless you are running wasted spark. I am currently running the stock distributor and it seems to only use q1.
The only solder joint configurations that I have soldered for my setup are SJ1 pin 2 and 3. You would solder SJ1 pin 1 and 2, SJ4, and SJ3 if using a Hall-Effect CPS.
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