Need a Turbo Patron

[Aptyp]

I need to find a person who I can ask a million questions, and who's expertise I could use. Someone, who's done a few turbo build successfully.

Here's what I'm working with.

1. Proturbo Manifold Adapter
2. XS Blow-off Valve. RFL
3. Skyline rb25 t3 turbo.
4. Wastegate adapter
5. 38mm Tial Knock-off wastegate
6. I have an intercooler, but haven't measured core size yet.
7. Spare I-engine.


That's what I have. So far. I am new to turbocharging.




So, who wants to take me under their experienced wing and supervise the rest of my projects. :)

I've started to learn about megasquirt and I am not looking for insane amount of power. Somewhere around 300whp would be satisfactory. My plan is to build the engine first, tune it without a turbo, break it in, and then add turbo to it. Most importantly, I want a reliable set up. Yes it is possible to have a reliable turbo. This isn't a fast project, as I'll be doing this as money permits.

- Art

[DTRguy]

I have built countless VW turbo setups... Building my first BMW turbo (albeit 24v) now but just post your questions and I will answer what I can or PM me if you like your questions. I will be happy to provide whatever answer I may have.

[yberther]

1. Have you looking into welding the water jackets of the head?

2. Head Studs?

3. Exhaust plans?

4. What MS set up?

[Aptyp]

1. Have you looking into welding the water jackets of the head?

2. Head Studs?

3. Exhaust plans?

4. What MS set up?

1. I have not looked in welding water jackets, I'd need to find a shop that could do it locally. I also see a lot of people not doing this at all with good success, so I don't think this is an issue for me.

2. I'll need to get some, I haven't yet figured out where I'll be ordering them from, but they need to be reasonably prices. MM blues are probably it, unless APR starts making e30 specific sets and lowers their price.

3. All I know, is that I want my car sounding somewhat quiet. I am not doing open exhaust and I don't have to worry about emissions. I am thinking of running 3" all the way back from downpipe with 2 resonators (cherry bombs) and then a thrush out back. I think that will keep flow really good and at the same time won't be too loud. I was also thinking of splitting exhaust in two at resonators and have dual muffler exhaust, but seems to be something fun I'll do when I have money and boredom.

4. I'd like to get MSII V3.0.

[yberther]

maybe its just the angle of the picture, but the turbo looks huge and it'll be sticking out of the hood.

yea, without tons of boost the head will be ok

arp makes studs that are for "e30"s but they're just cut ones from a mini I believe or something, but I'm pretty sure they're better than Blues...

exhaust can be figured out later, true.

[Aptyp]

On the stand engine is in vertical position, when it's tilted it seems perfect.


Through everything people has said about Blues and ARP head bolts/studs, I don't see the big deal. More people run Blues, than ARPs. I don't see $100 quality difference.

[318nboost]

ive been looking for a set of blues for my turbo m20 also, and was wondering where you had found a set for sale at? Ive tried searching the site but cant seem to find any

[Aptyp]

direct from metricmechanic.com

[nando]

direct from metricmechanic.com

metric blues? lol, I really doubt that. I'm pretty sure MM uses something from mercedes, but I still wouldn't bother with bolts. There are also Racewear studs, since ARP doesn't make a real M20 set. But even cut down ARPs are better than blues.

metric blues are junk. They are just bolts that happen to be the same length and thread pitch as the stock bolts. Sure, lots of people used them, but lots of people also had head gasket failures and broken motors and ended up replacing them with studs. It's not just a difference in the quality of the bolt, it's the very design of the bolt itself - how much clamping force it provides at X torque and Y yield strength. Who is still running metric blues these days? I haven't heard of anyone reccomending them in years. they are even ridiculed on the 'tech.

anyway, have you considered o-rings as an alternative to welding the coolant channels? or both for ultimate strength. :D

[Aptyp]

i will o-ring the block and use stock head gasket. A local friend of mine build his turbo on stock head gasket and head bolts. Blew up motor after 60k miles at 18psi on top of his old ass m20. He said the most of the difference comes in tuning. No matter how much you spend and what superior parts you get, without proper tuning, it will break. I am going to follow his advice, especially since I'll be running below 15 psi, and at even that, I'll be stoked to see 60k miles.

I really do think, that people overwork themselves in these projects.

[nando]

i will o-ring the block and use stock head gasket. A local friend of mine build his turbo on stock head gasket and head bolts. Blew up motor after 60k miles at 18psi on top of his old ass m20. He said the most of the difference comes in tuning. No matter how much you spend and what superior parts you get, without proper tuning, it will break. I am going to follow his advice, especially since I'll be running below 15 psi, and at even that, I'll be stoked to see 60k miles.

I really do think, that people overwork themselves in these projects.

good, o-rings with a stock headgasket should be plenty strong.

and yes, tuning is extremely important. glad to see you skip the usual "i'm going to run the stock computer and a RRFPR" step and jump right in. it'll probably save you at least one rebuild. :p

[318nboost]

im also having my bock o-ringed and plan on running a stock HG since it's already blew once without the o-rings and metric blues. Mine should be back and running in about a month or so, so ill let you kow how it likes it..... I plan on running about 15psi since thats what i was running before it blew, but i need to get the right tune so she doesnt let go again. Great build keep us updated. Oh i was running a 3" exhaust all the may back mandrel bent and it didnt sound too loud at all, kind of sounded like a pissed off tractor until you spooled it up

[avery0829]

Subscribed!

[der affe]

i thought that welding the head was a must do thing. not so much for containing the boots, but for head stregnth. looking for a head now to start P&P and building, since i am going S/C on the motor i though i would go a head and get it done after i P&P it and send it out for the rebuild.

i am going to run a MAX of 15 psi (12 more likely), but it will end up seeing 8 most of the time for sure.

so o ring it or weld it or ....both?

[Aptyp]

i always thought that people welded heads and modified head gaskets at cyl 4-5 to avoid steam build up. That's the primary cause of head cracking, so opening those coolant passages allows coolant to free-flow.