Turbo and Fuel systems

[SwiftE30]

Im planning on going FI with my e30 s52. My question is, what is neccessary to make a legit fuel system for a turbo's s52. I keep hearing about megasquirt and standalone systems and would like to know the difference and what would be ideal to use to be running 10-14psi on stock internals. Ive also been seeing rrfprvs regular fpr's, what are the pros and cons? Any info helps. thank you.

[Killacortes]

danny is a kike

[Danny]

bigger injectors with FI setup is bueno for adjustable FPR and i dont think 10-14 psi on stock internals is good maybe 8 psi.

Wow.

Next time, before you post, shut the fuck up.

OP: TRM (racersmarket.net)

42lb injectors and their software.

[Cyrix2k]

Im planning on going FI with my e30 s52. My question is, what is neccessary to make a legit fuel system for a turbo's s52. I keep hearing about megasquirt and standalone systems and would like to know the difference and what would be ideal to use to be running 10-14psi on stock internals. Ive also been seeing rrfprvs regular fpr's, what are the pros and cons? Any info helps. thank you.

A standalone ecu is just an ecu that can control your engine completely by itself. Megasquirt is an example of a standalone ecu system - it is also one of the cheapest and most capable options available. The catch is that it's a DIY solution and perhaps a bit more complicated than other systems.

A RRFPR (aka FMU) is only necessary if you want to boost your car with factory engine management. It is not a very flexible option and only works under low boost (6-8 psi)... after that, you really NEED full control over what's going on.

10-14 psi on stock internals is very doable provided you run proper head bolts/studs. O-rings may be necessary at 1 atm (14.7 psi), but you should be fine if your tune is in good shape. Personally, I prefer to run a stock head gasket for as long as possible as it provides a safety net for a poor tune. Instead of killing expensive internals, the gasket usually pops first.

[Dj Buttchug]

As much as I don't want to say it you sir need to do some serious research. Read read read its the best way to learn about FI. There's tons of threads on bimmerforums and here that have good info and can answer most of your above questions.

[Cyrix2k]

As much as I don't want to say it you sir need to do some serious research. Read read read its the best way to learn about FI. There's tons of threads on bimmerforums and here that have good info and can answer most of your above questions.

this too. Don't buy anything or touch your car until you know exactly what you need.

[einstein57]

Check out corky bells maximum boost. Then read a couple build threads. Its going to take a lot of programming to run over 8 pounds safely and for a long time.

[SwiftE30]

A standalone ecu is just an ecu that can control your engine completely by itself. Megasquirt is an example of a standalone ecu system - it is also one of the cheapest and most capable options available. The catch is that it's a DIY solution and perhaps a bit more complicated than other systems.

A RRFPR (aka FMU) is only necessary if you want to boost your car with factory engine management. It is not a very flexible option and only works under low boost (6-8 psi)... after that, you really NEED full control over what's going on.

10-14 psi on stock internals is very doable provided you run proper head bolts/studs. O-rings may be necessary at 1 atm (14.7 psi), but you should be fine if your tune is in good shape. Personally, I prefer to run a stock head gasket for as long as possible as it provides a safety net for a poor tune. Instead of killing expensive internals, the gasket usually pops first.

Yeah isnt megasquirt the system you can hook a computer up to and completely tune your engine right there?

So if i want to be pushin around 12-14psi i should definitely not go with a RRFPR. And i was planning on going with an MLS gasket and ARP studs but i like your idea about running stock head gasket as a back up to a bad tune. I was planning on getting it tuned by a local shop.

I just bought corky bells maximum boost, i'm just waiting for it to get here! Thanks for the info

[Good & Tight]

Wow.


OP: TRM (racersmarket.net)

42lb injectors and their software.

This..^^^^ plus
You can run 8psi safely on stock compression. Anything above that you will need ARP headstuds and a MLS. TRM takes the guess work out tuning, just tell them what engine,turbo and they send you a base tune with a blow through MAF and injectors.
Get the car dynoed, send them the graph with AFR's and they send you a retune to tweak it.

[SwiftE30]

Ok great, i will definitly be getting the ARP studs and MLS head! Is what they send you a chip for your computer? Or do they send you a chip and an actual new MAF with bigger injectors?

[Good & Tight]

Ok great, i will definitly be getting the ARP studs and MLS head! Is what they send you a chip for your computer? Or do they send you a chip and an actual new MAF with bigger injectors?

You get a chip, injectors and MAF. They also sell the ARP's and MLS.

[SwiftE30]

awesome! That takes a lot of work out of the process. And Good & Tight, i'll be headin back home late november, your exhaust manifold with down pipe will be my first purchace. Im very excited