you dont want stoich under boost
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turbo the e30, now cut out when shifting?
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FWIW i have tunes a turbo M20 running 8psi on 30lb injectors from a volvo S80 (6 cylinder engine) and with the stock FPR and a walbro pump. on that setup the 30lb injectors flowed enough fuel to drown the engine even on full boost of 8psi.
id suggest forgetting about the RRFPR and using MATCHING injectors, dont mix and match different types even if they have the same flow rating. also grab a moates ostrich emulator and download tunerpro RT. you will then be able to tune the ECU in real time and trace maps to help pinpoint problem areas. also if u dont have a wideband get one..
if u go the tunerpro/ostrich emulator route i can help with the tuning or if u have any bugs in the tune along the way. this setup will also mean u can adjust ur tune should u want to change injector size or increase boost at a later date. with good tuning a setup like this will whoop the pants off an RRFPR and stock ECU setup. the M20 turbo i tuned was previously running 19lb injectors and a RRFPR.. he also previously lost most of an engine to an engine bay fire caused by a fuel line popping because of the excess pressure the RRFPR creates in the fuel system on boost.
this is the thread to be in if u decide to go tunerpro/ostrich http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98922Last edited by DmcL; 08-12-2011, 06:47 AM.
Currently E30-less
- EthosMotorsports.com
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well like i said, i just bought a set of 6 matching rc 36lb injectors, and i have a afm that is calibrated to work with the 36lb injectors. the afm is telling my ecu what is going on and what to do based on the injector size and flow rate, that's a pretty decent set upLast edited by custom e30; 08-12-2011, 11:56 AM.
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it may run for a month or 2, if you can keep your foot off the fun pedal. but make a few highway runs, and it will blow itself to bits.
i built a turbo setup on a toyota tercel i used to own (gimme a break, i was 17), and i ran supra injectors, a lc-1 wideband, and an apexi SAFCII to tune it. i had the afr tuned to 11.0 at wot, and the damn thing still blew up because i had no spark control. it ran for about a year, but it would still detonate badly after a long pull at 10psi.
bottom line, if you don't want to replace the motor VERY soon, i would get a ms setup, or do it right and get a full standalone unit.Originally posted by BillBraskyThat's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.Originally posted by acolella76i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013
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