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27"x5.5"x2.5"Comment
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okay...to clarify with everyone I have changed some isht around....before turbo, car was running like bat out of hell with only 150HP, rev to 7,000rpm all day, now let me tell you what has changed.
AFM between BOV and TB,
running factory injectors whatever size they are
AEM TRUBOOST ebc set to 10% duty cycle lowest boost setting for safety
WG crack pressure is sprung at 7psi, I am trying to achieve 10\12w/scramble boost function
I have no idea what a piggy back is, but I don't have one, I'm a mechanical guy, the turbo isht makes sense...the electroni, fmu's/DME's/piggy backs...i dont knos what it stands for hardly alone what it does, please enlighten me.
Also, turbo is shitty Ebay t3\t4 hybrid int. wastegate NO IT DOESNT LEAK LOL, although my 90° feed fitting does a tad
Ebay manifold (YES IM DUMB, but I made it fit perfectly in my ignorance.
Running a chip from racing pros for 173 ecu, retarded timing and increased fuel maps...havent noticed any difference in the way the car runs with either chip, probably because I am still not revving up or boosting...I can get 2 psi on my boost gauge...thats all, I keep thinking maybe I should start turnokng the boost up on my electronic boost controller as its at lowest duty cycle of 10% right now...it like...limits the turbo or something via the wastegate, so you can adjust to the right boost pressure you want but not go too far and they say to increase gradually like 10%.at a time....
My problem is, she still wont rev for me...is my fuel pressure regulator a problem? even with factory pump and injectors, btw fuel filter was changed quite recently within last 200 miles before I shut her down for the build. It has metric blues trqd to 80ft. lbs. and a victor reinz factory headgasket, new front n rear main seals new clutch new pilot and throwout bearing new quibo disc new flywheel and pp bolts resurfaced flywheel royal purple front to back synchromax in trans and 75w-90 in diff, autogrimmig short throw shifter(need to replace selector bushing cuz she grinds if I pull too hard on stick while engaged in second), new shifter support bushings and trans mounts, engine mounts were replaced right b4 I got car, I mean... everything seems to be working awsome except my ingenious turbo setup haha....HELP ME PLEAAASSSEEEEEE GARGLE GARGLE GAREGLEEDD ARRGHHHHHHHComment
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Pre-gapped NGK V-power plugsComment
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presently I cannot even get the car to idle at 1,000 rpm as if im misfiring a$$loads or like total air fuel ratio nightmare....this is driving me crazy because I want this car to run so bad but no matter what I tinker with at this point im stumped nothing has fixed it....had diagnostic run, it says, AFM fault, ICV fault, ICV winding fault(basically means idle control unit is scrap), and coolant temp sensor(the blue one) also full load switch which the guy at shop said was not a big issue, I am confused, do I need.to replace my afm and icv, everything was working golden before I pulled engine and.transmission....your time, advice, input,,and suggestions are highly appreciated, im no expert at this so its time to hand it over to you all and see what we can come up with...thanmsComment
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Thanks* damned swypeComment
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Spoke with MillerPerformance, they say with W.A.R. chip a piggyback nor a rrfpr is neccesary because the fuel pressure issues can be overcome with the right tune although a walbro 255 and 30 lb. injectors and a wideband o2 sensor and gauge like the lm1 fron innovative should get me rolling...Comment
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*w/ W.A.R. chip piggyback/rrfpr is unneccesary*Comment
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