I have a thread started in the S52 section, but I figured I would try here as well since this is a dedicated FI section. Engine has 94k miles on it, Vortech V1 has 5k miles on it. Oil changed last week, no metal shaving in it and the oil was clean.
heres what I have checked so far.
The good news is my leak down test came back pretty good, all cylinders were within 10% of each other inside the green on the gauge. We did a compression test as well, and all the cylinders hit 150psi and were within 3-5 psi of each other. My spark plugs looked perfect, they were only installed a week ago, but thats when this issue popped up. The sheaths on the coil packs were all white except the one on cylinder 6, not sure what that was about.
We took the crank case filter off and it was gross and full of oil. While off, there was noticeable smoke coming from the port it was attached to, and when we plugged it and opened the oil cap, the smoke was coming out of that. We used a plastic baggy over the oil cap hole to check for vacuum, and the baggy didnt get sucked in to the hole at all, which according to Beilsan, means the valve is working correctly. We attempted to blow forced air in to the breather tube, but couldnt hear any bubbling in the oil pan, and didnt hear any of air hissing out of the lines under the breather, but it wasnt a good seal.
We also found that the outlet nipple on the forge diverter valve was loose, it is a screw in type and it needed 4 turns to get it tight against the valve. One thing we couldnt figure out is why the valve is stuck open when fully connected to the system. If I have this incorrect, tell me, but my understanding is the piston in the valve should stay closed in order to build boost, and when I either let go over the gas to switch gears or decelerate, it should open and release the pressure back in to the intake, then close again when I accelerate. Is this correct? Its a simple piece of equipment, only has a spring and the piston on the inside, and it moves freely when we manipulate it, but once its hooked in to the system, it just stays open.
We checked the MAF and it was pretty clean but cleaned it with CRC cleaner anyway. The intake filter itself was disgusting, unfortunately none of the stores around us carried the new filter, so we got the cleaning kit and cleaned it out, didnt make any noticable difference in driveability.
The stumbling is still at the lower RPM range (1000-2500) and I still dont feel the boost coming on at 4000rpm's like it used to. Could this be attributed to a bad Vanos or a cam issue? We hear no vacuum leaks at all, but we are going to try a smoke machine later in the week.
Any other thoughts?
heres what I have checked so far.
The good news is my leak down test came back pretty good, all cylinders were within 10% of each other inside the green on the gauge. We did a compression test as well, and all the cylinders hit 150psi and were within 3-5 psi of each other. My spark plugs looked perfect, they were only installed a week ago, but thats when this issue popped up. The sheaths on the coil packs were all white except the one on cylinder 6, not sure what that was about.
We took the crank case filter off and it was gross and full of oil. While off, there was noticeable smoke coming from the port it was attached to, and when we plugged it and opened the oil cap, the smoke was coming out of that. We used a plastic baggy over the oil cap hole to check for vacuum, and the baggy didnt get sucked in to the hole at all, which according to Beilsan, means the valve is working correctly. We attempted to blow forced air in to the breather tube, but couldnt hear any bubbling in the oil pan, and didnt hear any of air hissing out of the lines under the breather, but it wasnt a good seal.
We also found that the outlet nipple on the forge diverter valve was loose, it is a screw in type and it needed 4 turns to get it tight against the valve. One thing we couldnt figure out is why the valve is stuck open when fully connected to the system. If I have this incorrect, tell me, but my understanding is the piston in the valve should stay closed in order to build boost, and when I either let go over the gas to switch gears or decelerate, it should open and release the pressure back in to the intake, then close again when I accelerate. Is this correct? Its a simple piece of equipment, only has a spring and the piston on the inside, and it moves freely when we manipulate it, but once its hooked in to the system, it just stays open.
We checked the MAF and it was pretty clean but cleaned it with CRC cleaner anyway. The intake filter itself was disgusting, unfortunately none of the stores around us carried the new filter, so we got the cleaning kit and cleaned it out, didnt make any noticable difference in driveability.
The stumbling is still at the lower RPM range (1000-2500) and I still dont feel the boost coming on at 4000rpm's like it used to. Could this be attributed to a bad Vanos or a cam issue? We hear no vacuum leaks at all, but we are going to try a smoke machine later in the week.
Any other thoughts?
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