Quick spooling budget rear mounted turbo M50tu?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • einstein57
    replied
    I have an early model so i'm running a TRE 255lph lift pump to a bosch 044 external. No changes to wiring. AEM should be easy to install but i have not actually installed one yet.

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    What motor were you using? Did you upgrade your wiring to the pump? Maybe it's voltage drop at idle. I was planning on using the walbro 416 e85 pump, but worried about how difficult installation would be. How bad was the aem pump? Yup found larger e85 safe lines.

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    OP click here...http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=332814



    Are you going to the IE bbq this saturday?
    Possibly. Need to figure why my fuel system is dropping pressure only when it sits in traffic.


    Originally posted by THEhomelessONE
    I'd love to have a twin screw but that's out of the question $$$. Read the Rotrex can't be rebuilt, and a replacement would be over $1,500 so would rather avoid, thanks for the link though. A vortech would be nice especially because the ease of install, and the price new isn't that bad, but not being able to up the boost is a bummer, I know I'll want more soon after.

    I like the idea of boosting the m50 til she pops. Replacement m50's are everywhere and cheap, as are zf320's. I'd feel like shit if I ruined an aluminum block LS or s52. Goal is to have at least 400 whp. HX35 on 15-20psi with e85 should get me there no problem, making full boost under 4k, and gives the option of over 500whp down the road.

    Bahh socal, you guys get all the fun meets lol
    That sounds pretty reasonable. I hit 18psi in higher gears at 3800 rpm on e85. And that's with a log mani, dinosaur turbo, and a cat. Make sure to get an AEM e85 pump and replace every inch of factory fuel line.

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    I'd love to have a twin screw but that's out of the question $$$. Read the Rotrex can't be rebuilt, and a replacement would be over $1,500 so would rather avoid, thanks for the link though. A vortech would be nice especially because the ease of install, and the price new isn't that bad, but not being able to up the boost is a bummer, I know I'll want more soon after.

    I like the idea of boosting the m50 til she pops. Replacement m50's are everywhere and cheap, as are zf320's. I'd feel like shit if I ruined an aluminum block LS or s52. Goal is to have at least 400 whp. HX35 on 15-20psi with e85 should get me there no problem, making full boost under 4k, and gives the option of over 500whp down the road.

    Bahh socal, you guys get all the fun meets lol

    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    OP click here...http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=332814

    Originally posted by einstein57
    Come by my house in your swapped car and i'll show you
    Are you going to the IE bbq this saturday?

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    Why not supercharge it? or buy a motorcycle
    Come by my house in your swapped car and i'll show you ;D

    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    Why not supercharge it? or buy a motorcycle

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    No. You can use the stock harness. You just cut out the connector from the factory ecu. TO Hit 300whp you'll probably need around 12# of boost. Thats a little ambitious for a large wet float turbo on a 2.5l engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    Wouldn't I have to cut up my harness if I went standalone? Was going to hit up RK Tuning when the time came. Figured the twin scroll from the hx35 and Otis's mani would help me have full boost around 3500. Should I go for an hy35 instead even though it's not twin scroll? Put a few things up for sale, trying to get the ball rolling already. Need to stop getting tickets :(

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    You can build your own standalone for under $300. That FWIW i don't think you'll get full boost bellow 3800 rpm.

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    Going with a traditional setup hx35, hopefully I can use a chip tune for 413 dme, don't want to go standalone.

    Leave a comment:


  • GunMetalGrey
    replied
    I am running MS3X and have about $1,000 into it between all of the ECU parts and sensors and wiring/plugs that I used. It does add up fast.
    Not sure about what the turbo would get in the way of.

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    Thanks for the advice! I'll get the studs and MLS, maybe shave the head for more compression. Got lucky and found a zf 320 nearby, going to pick it up next week.

    What would you recommend for tuning? Read somewhere the stock dme has done tunes over 700hp, but who knows. If I did a bottom mount wouldn't I lose A/C or need a custom motor mount arm?

    Leave a comment:


  • GunMetalGrey
    replied
    Just want to comment on a few things you have stated.

    You do not want to use ARP studs - You can put about 7psi into a stock m50 before you pop the gasket from what I have seen on the interballs, studs and MLS are a necessity for any power goal you have stated.

    You will end up way over your budget - All parts are expensive, especially braided oil/fuel lines. I cannot believe how much I have spent on my build, way more than I ever had expected.

    Tuning - The stock ECU is very limited and I have not seen anyone burning chips for turbo m50's. The MAF is also a limiting factor as you cannot accurately account for higher boost levels, around 7psi from what I have gathered.

    Exhaust volume - it's going to be loud, but it would have a gnarly turbo whine from the 6" pipe you would have to use off of the turbo.

    Hoses/Fittings - Frozenboost.com has had everything that I needed for my build.

    Trans - The g240 may hold (has held in some cases, blown in other builds) but the downside is the clutch diameter. 228mm clutch max, where the zf you can run the 240mm clutch. You will be able to get a clutch that holds more power and is easier to drive all at the same time.

    No Intercooler - Heatsoak sucks

    Stealth - I feel like it would be pretty obvious if there is a turbo hanging where the muffler normally is. Bottom mount is much simpler and stealthy


    My qualifications to post said thoughts- Turbo M50 E30

    Leave a comment:


  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    Thanks man, STS is where I got the idea from. The pump STS uses is also prone to failing, but Turbowerx seems to be reliable. Appreciate any advice, where to buy lines, hoses, fittings, couplers, etc.

    Leave a comment:

Working...