500 whp m20 on new head gasket, arp head studs and meth?

[Northern]

Not sure which TOB you need, pilot is going to match the trans.

[grinchxvx]

I'm kind of a hypocrite because I didn't pop my timing cover off, but it would be nice to see if the guides are broken or worn, and the tensioner you could unthread from the side of the head (without removing anything else) and check the spring free length, and/or just replace it with the S52 style hydraulic tensioner. If you're pulling the head later/soonish to install an MLS or something, I suppose it's just as easy to do then.

Assuming that clutch is for an M20/G260, get a new OEM G260 TOB and pilot bearing. I'm running the e36 FX racing "Stage 3" chromoly flywheel/clutch so I know first hand how shitty the bearings they include are.

Yeah that head is coming off as bottom end is staying Intact While head is machined and cleaned. The F1 stage 4 is meant for a zf I Believe. I know you Can use e36 stuff no problem you just have to make sure everything is off a e36. Just don't know about which throw out and all that jazz to use


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

Chain tensioner/guides: what do I look for on those?

Oil pump nut will be taken care of.

I'm getting the F1 stage 4 stuff for my stock g260 along with flywheel and everything. what pilot and throw out do I need?

I'm kind of a hypocrite because I didn't pop my timing cover off, but it would be nice to see if the guides are broken or worn, and the tensioner you could unthread from the side of the head (without removing anything else) and check the spring free length, and/or just replace it with the S52 style hydraulic tensioner. If you're pulling the head later/soonish to install an MLS or something, I suppose it's just as easy to do then.

Assuming that clutch is for an M20/G260, get a new OEM G260 TOB and pilot bearing. I'm running the e36 FX racing "Stage 3" chromoly flywheel/clutch so I know first hand how shitty the bearings they include are.

[grinchxvx]

500 whp m20 on new head gasket, arp head studs and meth?

Water pump and thermo are forsure getting replaced.

Chain tensioner/guides: what do I look for on those?

Oil pump nut will be taken care of.

I'm getting the F1 stage 4 stuff for my stock g260 along with flywheel and everything. what pilot and throw out do I need?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

Rear main seal.
water pump/tstat/housing (unless the housing is aluminum or updated composite style, and the waterpump is newish, but that's not really hard to change later, honestly)
Chain tensioner/guides wouldn't hurt to at least look at.
May as well tack weld/loctite/lockwire the oil pump nut for peace of mind.


ZF detent pins - or at least make sure you have all the gears in the shift pattern and no 5th gear lean.

TOB/pilot bearing/pivot pin, but I assume you're doing a clutch?

[grinchxvx]

Bump, I have a few questions

What should I replace motor wise while it's out of the car and everything is easy to get to? The motor supposedly only has 140k on it but I'll be doing a Leakdown test anyway to see what shape it is in.

Off the top of my head I was thinking all gaskets and new waterpump/thermo.
The machine shop doing the head will pressure test/clean it and replace the valve stem seals for 2 dollars a valve so I'll probably do that too.

I wasn't planning on opening the bottom end besides to replace the oil pan and gasket but is there anything easy worth replacing? I know the s5x motors have sensitive rod bearings but I don't think that applies to the m52.

I just want to be able to make 500 whp on stock motor and Lower compression reliably


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

Nice!

[grinchxvx]

Oh dear god that pink

It was definitely a hoopty but I got the motor with all accessories and every thing for Mega cheap and it only has 140k miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ahrensNW]

Oh dear god that pink

[grinchxvx]

Here she is boyz



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[grinchxvx]

I'm picking up an m52 on Sunday, looks like it's 24v turbo time. For now I will be turning up the boost on my current sts setup until I get a new headgasket and spacer on the m52 😎


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[e30 gangsta]

A lot of the jz and 3.0l guys run the gtx3582r in t4 flange with a .82 back housing, expect boost to come in sometime after 4000rpm, which only leaves you with 3000 rpm to play with on an m20.

To be the best recipe for power/early spool is as follows.

3.0l or above gtx3582r, 6266 dbb.

Anything below 3.0 gtx3576r just as much power with better spool time, and more tq/hp further down in the rev range. And it still makes 700 on some setups.

[grinchxvx]

I'm seeing A lot of used obd1 trm tuning packages for sale.... Might have to do that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[grinchxvx]

http://www.lasotaracing.com/techdrawthroug.html

^ decent overview of blow/draw thru. I think it just makes it easier. Trying to run a 2.5" MAF in front of a turbo with a 4" inlet with a reducer and plumbing for a bypass valve, then fitting a filter in front of that doesn't really give you much room.

Another downside of draw thru is being stuck with a bybass valve vs BOV, and I think tuning for the blow thru is just easier in general.

I think one of the 803/809 porsche 3" MAF that guys use as the "euro hfm" upgrade works as a blow thru, but then you're stuck trying to scale the maf based on second hand info, whereas the HPX setups are a little more expensive, but come with the transfer function to convert your tables.

You can buy the HPX setup from the "store" section of their site, I think it's $200 for the maf, plus $25 for a pigtail, and $50 if you opt for their 3" housing, but I think miller or TRM make a plate you can weld to your charge piping instead.

There are a lot of threads on the romraider e36 subforum http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=42 about the issue with stock MAFs, how they currently workaround the issue, and how they plan to integrate an easier way to switch mafs or allow for increased airflow in the ECU.

I see now, it might just be worth it to get the whole tuning package from TRM/RK but I need to see what I can get the hardware for separately first.

I couldn't sleep last night so I put together a parts lists with rough costs for the whole car and I got around 4000 reusing as much as I can from my current setup with cheaper used parts and around 6000 by buying most things new and reusing what I can. I'm going to be hawking the FS section for used stuff.

Looks like I can have a pretty well sorted clean e30 for less than 10k, not bad considering the only thing cheaper and faster for the money would be a POS Honda.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Northern]

There's been talk of running a MAP sensor, but it hasn't happened yet. The major M5x tuners all use the HPX maf for turbo setups afaik.