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m20b25 turbo questions, almost done!!

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  • Yuri
    replied
    It's all coming together now. The problem I am running into is my aftermarket radiator coolant lines are blocking my timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Because of that I left my cam gear cover off and attempted to do it that way.

    I figured there are twice the rotations on the cam gear as the harmonic balancer so (48 teethx2=)96 total teeth passing the timing mark per rotation. Leading me to believe there are about 5.62(360/96) degrees of timing per cam tooth. I am about 1.5 teeth off which matches my initial reading of 18 degrees when I was set at 10 degrees timing on my other thread measured from the crank. At that point, I didn't have my radiator installed and was just running the car for 10-20 seconds.



    all this being said, I did buy a harmonic balancer from a junkyard because mine cracked. Is there a difference between years? they said it came off am20b25 but maybe it was a 2.7. i just assumed it was fine.

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  • e30davie
    replied
    You change the trigger offset number. In the other thread you had it set to 97, and we changed it to 84. if it is indeed wrong you will set this 9 deg one way or the other. (ie 75 or 93)

    You adjust the number until the marks line up. It ss surprising that it is so far out though?
    Last edited by e30davie; 05-09-2019, 09:56 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Yuri
    replied
    I got everything moving and shaking! appreciate everyone's help.

    I have one more question. I set my timing to 0 on tuner studios and checked it with a timing light. it still was 1.5 teeth off about 9 degrees of timing. How do I edit that in tuner studios so my ecu is reading the correct timing?

    Leave a comment:


  • mzollo
    replied
    you could pull power from the fuel pump relay or 02 heater relay. something thats not always hot with key on

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  • Yuri
    replied
    I just got off the phone with DIY autotune and they told me first of all to always ground to the head and 2nd find the main power relay from the ECU and hook that up to the coil pack. So I guess now I'm just looking for the relay connected to the ECU.

    I found this link:
    https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=DME

    but its still hard to understand. Is that relay under the hood?

    Leave a comment:


  • Yuri
    replied
    Alright I have one more quick question regarding wasted spark. Can I just use the stock “15+” wire hooked up to the distributor as my power wire to my new coil pack? And if that’s right do I just ground the other one?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • turbski
    replied
    Crystal clear.
    Thanks

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  • Jaxx_
    replied
    the spec will differ for any one-way valve. I've seen some that handle upto 150psi against the valve.

    Well, the reason you want a check valve is that you can have assisted brakes even if you're on the power, or the manifold still has pressure(under boost). You could run without a check valve, but you would have a stiff brake pedal relative to the manifold pressure.

    The brake booster would probably hold up to boost just fine for modest values--at idle it's close to 10psi on the seals, but the opposite direction. Maybe it's not designed for pressure in the "wrong" way... the kind it would experience under boost.

    In a simple way to explain it, booster works on differential pressure between atmosphere (brake pedal side) and vac(booster side). Hope that helps clarify things

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  • turbski
    replied
    Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
    Perhaps I didn't understand the question, but you need manifold vacuum for the brake booster. The 1 way valve is to keep vacuum in the booster and "replenish" the vacuum for when you need it.
    For some reason it didn't click the first couple times I read it. Im not sure how much pressure "boost" the one way valve will take on a turbo set up but when not in boost, it is under vacuum from air being sucked into the engine.


    I think the OPs question was how does the brake booster hold up to boost. I guess the answer is as long as the valve is installed it should never see boost in the brake booster?

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  • Jaxx_
    replied
    Perhaps I didn't understand the question, but you need manifold vacuum for the brake booster. The 1 way valve is to keep vacuum in the booster and "replenish" the vacuum for when you need it.

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  • turbski
    replied
    Mine does. I think it works as a venturi. Hence the one way valve. Someone pls correct me if I'm wrong

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  • Yuri
    replied
    Right, that makes sense. If I just run one line from the throttle body to the brake booster, will my brake booster still function properly?

    Leave a comment:


  • turbski
    replied
    Originally posted by Yuri View Post
    I was planning on running the line to my turbo not an oil cooler... :/

    ended up upgrading the fuel pump.



    All this info was so helpful thank you so much! very informative!

    Regarding the tuning, my plan was to purchase the below and use the auto tune feature to get started. is that not sufficient?

    https://www.efianalytics.com/registe...=TSULTRA_MLVHD


    Also, I've decided to purchase an 8lb/10lb spring instead, not sure what I was thinking with 15lb. In doing so, do I just use this alongside my ms2 for boost control? seems resonably priced.

    https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-solenoid-kit/




    good to know on those lines, I was confused about that. Does the one-way valve hold up to 400hp?




    I don't think its a matter of hp but rather boost pressure. The one 1 way will only see one or the other. Mine is connected in the stock location with factory valve and around 12+ psi with no issues. Im sure someone with more knowledge can put this in technical terms

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  • Yuri
    replied
    Originally posted by cream_e30 View Post
    Yuri, I meant that part is for an oil cooler before I looked at the link. Just pick a line and toss it on the turbo feed. Dont forget the orifice or you'll be in some trouble with oil pressure.

    Good that you upgraded fuel pump. If your goal is 400, you'll need at the very least 40# injectors. Pump you bought will get you there. I would get a new FPR, one that can work with boost pressure to maintain fuel pressure.

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
    Awesome, those lines should be simple enough.

    I got the TRE PNP 60lb Fuel injectors, so i think those should be fine as long as I stick with gas. I'm in Minnesota where e85 grows rampant so ive been toying with the idea, but ill probably start gas.

    Leave a comment:


  • cream_e30
    replied
    Yuri, I meant that part is for an oil cooler before I looked at the link. Just pick a line and toss it on the turbo feed. Dont forget the orifice or you'll be in some trouble with oil pressure.

    Good that you upgraded fuel pump. If your goal is 400, you'll need at the very least 40# injectors. Pump you bought will get you there. I would get a new FPR, one that can work with boost pressure to maintain fuel pressure.

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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