E30 M10 Crank Pulley Removal/Install

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  • BadDays
    Advanced Member
    • Dec 2024
    • 142

    #1

    E30 M10 Crank Pulley Removal/Install

    OK so let's start this off by getting some common questions out of the way because there's not a lot of info for M10's in the E30 community and I'm getting sick of doing research and trying to remove this crank pulley off my engine for machining.

    The M10 found in 84-85 318i's are not like the M10's found in 2002's, Attempting to remove the crank pulley off the engine can be done with the starter method but if your engine is taken out of the car or you took out your distributor/wiring for a standalone ecu conversion then this method can't work. The Impact method is a solid method but you do need to be careful since the engine still can turn if the flywheel isn't held down by the clutch or a screwdriver. However the impact method can work for removal if you also jam a screwdriver into the flywheel teeth before you go ham on the 30mm Bolt. Installation still requires the usage of a torque wrench set to 120 to 150 pounds respectively, Finally you can lock the flywheel itself with a small tool but this will require removing the bowl reinforcement cover (Part Number: 11141277030) and then the inspection cover to lock down the flywheel with the tool. I originally thought about removing the transmission but that's only if you're also changing the flywheel/replacing the clutch.


    So what's all of this for? Essentially I'm going to add information here with pictures once I get the pulley off for machining, If you got pictures and information on how you did it, Drop it here. (M20 folks, please add your own information here as well so it helps out others when they do the crank pulley on the M10 and M20)
  • TobyB
    R3V Elite
    • Oct 2011
    • 5238

    #2
    The M10 found in 84-85 318i's are not like the M10's found in 2002's,
    That's true- they're destroked by 200cc by moving the wrist pin down in the piston skirt,
    and running a shorter crank. They also run a 1.8i head, and a slightly domed piston.
    The casting's refined to lighten it a bit, and the core shift that happened in the early
    blocks seems to be significantly reduced.

    However, the nut that holds the pulley on the crank snout's pretty much the same.
    A GOOD rattle gun and some patience (and 150 psi) will usually get it off.

    If the engine's out of the car, the VW flywheel locking tool works very well-
    you run it into one of the lower block ears, and then lock the flywheel with it, and use a nice
    big long breaker bar to get the nut loose. Laying the engine on its side helps with this, as
    you can jump on the bar at about the head, and it doesn't try to hop up.

    In the car, I've had some luck with just putting the thing in gear, tugging the parking brake
    as hard as I can, and then giving said breaker bar a good, sharp tug. It might take
    a half- dozen or more tries. IF your parking brake's adjusted properly, and the shoes
    are good.
    A dead blow hammer on the breaker bar sometimes helps shock it loose,
    as does a copper- faced BIG hammer...

    things I've found,
    t

    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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