o-ring the block, use a factory gasket (not aftermarket crap), use studs, done.
actually, it doesn't really work that way. TTY or "stretch" bolts clamp just fine, they are actually designed to stretch at their highest yeild strength and clamping force. They also don't need retorqued, unlike studs. But you can't reuse them, and they weren't designed for the cylinder pressures seen in a turbo engine.
Quick questions about ARP's and MLS gaskets
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I wisH I wasnt short on cash, but I really dont think I should push 10lbs without a metal headgasketLeave a comment:
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10 bucks cheaper at Ireland Engineering.Leave a comment:
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I'm using an MLS gasket and Metric Blue Bolts, albiet it's an M20, and it's nearly $300 for the stud kit.Leave a comment:
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MLS headgasket, stock used head bolts running 24psi for at least a year ( 15 to 20 psi the two years prior ), daily driven and no problems ( except for the lack of a second gear now ).Leave a comment:
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Studs don't "stretch" when you assemble them, so they clamp better. If you "O-Ring" the head, a stock gasket will do amazing amounts of bewst on most motors. Combine that with studs, and I would guess an otherwise stock M10 could handle a boatload of boost.Leave a comment:
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YOu mean no worries as if I dont need the studs, or headgasket?Leave a comment:
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Studs are not supposed to need replacing when removing the head, and if used with 12 to 15 PSI, I would say no worries.Leave a comment:
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No, I just thought that the studs stayed in, and the nuts came off.Leave a comment:

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