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1984 318i Missing and Starting problems

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    1984 318i Missing and Starting problems

    I have a 1984 318i that I love to drive. I have done some minor mods:

    K&N conical cold air intake
    Tokico Springs
    Bilstein Shocks
    Replaced rear drums with 91 Discs
    Replace the tan shredded interior with houndstooth out of 86 325i
    Took the front and rear bumper shocks out, drilled and collapsed, and remounted bumpers to give it Euro Look
    Took the Silver BBS Baskets off and cleaned, reprinted them flat black
    Replaced the hood and trunk gaskets
    Replaced the valve cover gasket
    Installed brand new upper and lower oil pan with new gaskets
    Replaced all belts under hood
    Replaced all hoses in reference to cooling
    Took the auxiliary fuel pump underneath the car off if it and replaced it with one off of a 325e that I bought for a parts car (car had immaculate interior and all under good shrouds) so I bought it.
    Installed new cold start valve

    Just ordered new plug wire set, ICV, and new distributor.

    The problem I am having is like chasing a ghost. The car will start right up in the morning and do the same in the afternoon after it has set for a while. But if I drive the car, get it up to temperature, park it and shut it down, if it sits there for about an hour to hour 1/2, it does not want to restart. Eventually it will after about 10-15 minutes of cranking, but it is a real hassle.



    Also when I am driving it at low RPM, it seems to intermittently miss and if I am driving slow in 2nd or 3rd gear, it seems to lunge. If I get into it and drive it like its stolen, it does not have the missing issue. But as soon as I start to just cruise at about 45 mph, it does the missing thing again.

    I am not a BMW mechanic by any means, but I am not scared to get in there and get it done. I have done the majority of the work myself in the driveway.

    I have also taken the MAF off of the other 1985 318i automatic that I own (actually my sons, but it will be parted out if he does not get DL) and I out this in my car.

    Looking for any help that I might be able to get to make this car run smoothly.
    Kevin Patrick
    22901 Eoff Drive
    Mabelvale, AR. 72103

    M. 501.944.4021
    kpatrick318@gmail.com

    #2
    I don't have time to look this up to be sure, but thought I'd at least throw an idea out there. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to hook up a fuel pressure gage, turn off the car, and see how fast pressure drops. If it drops past a certain point, I think there is a check valve or accumulator that you're supposed to replace. Hope this at least puts you on the right track.

    Comment


      #3
      I'm thinking the cold/hot start issue could be related to your cold start valve which I believe should only kick in when the engine is below a certain temp. If that sensor is bad it would allow excess fuel in a warm start which could lead to the symptoms you describe. Next time try to unplug the valve when the engine is warm and see if that makes a difference and I'd also check it for leaks since they are known to cause all kinds of poor running conditions.

      If you are lucky it could be the source of both problems....or neither :idea:
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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