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    Timing Belt Tension

    Hey guys, just did my timing belt job last week with the “while your in there” water pump, thermostat, new radiator jobs with a lot of help from google, this forum, and other sources. I got my new belt on and it ran perfectly. besides a weird rattling nose coming from the front of the engine. random, not RPM dependent, sometimes present at idle/sometimes not, seems to disappear when revved.

    I already checked the other belts and clearances (like water pump pulley and harmonic balancer) and determined they aren’t the problem. my mechanic says it’s cause the timing belt is loose. I was 100% sure i did everything right but it’s the last thing to check so imma tear it down again and check the timing belt tension.

    But my question is how to know if the tension is right? i’ve read a lot of things on this forum and it sounds like leaving the bolts loose enough to let the spring adjust the belt is the correct way? How do you know if a timing belt is loose or not?

    I also just got a new belt and a new timing belt tensioner spring just in case my belt is worn down from the few miles i put on it with the rattling lol

    #2
    When you tension the belt, leave the tensioner loose so that it is pushing on the belt (i.e. you could slide it back and forth with your hand/push it back to compress the spring). Then you need to rotate the engine by hand (with a wrench) a few times, watching the belt to make sure it walks into a stable position on the cam pulley. At this point, after it does not move forwards/back anymore during rotation, you need to torque the tensioner bolts such that it cannot move at all - the spring is only there to provide the correct tension on the belt during those few manual rotations, once that is done the tensioner itself needs to be locked in place until removed during the next timing belt change.

    As well, ensure your timing marks are correctly lined up. It is not impossible by any means to be out a tooth on the timing.

    Finally, do a valve adjustment before firing her up and after a few warmup cycles.

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      #3
      Thank you very much for the very detailed help!
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        #4
        Originally posted by JehTehsus View Post
        When you tension the belt, leave the tensioner loose so that it is pushing on the belt (i.e. you could slide it back and forth with your hand/push it back to compress the spring). Then you need to rotate the engine by hand (with a wrench) a few times, watching the belt to make sure it walks into a stable position on the cam pulley. At this point, after it does not move forwards/back anymore during rotation, you need to torque the tensioner bolts such that it cannot move at all - the spring is only there to provide the correct tension on the belt during those few manual rotations, once that is done the tensioner itself needs to be locked in place until removed during the next timing belt change.

        As well, ensure your timing marks are correctly lined up. It is not impossible by any means to be out a tooth on the timing.

        Finally, do a valve adjustment before firing her up and after a few warmup cycles.
        was looking for this exact info. you confirmed what i was thinking. really appreciate it.

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