Feels like Rev Limiter at 4,500 RPM

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    Changed fuel filter no difference.

    Changed the Crank Sensor and ding ding ding!!!!! All fixed running better than ever. Thanks everyone for your insight and help!!

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    Did you lose your Tach with the bad crank sensor? Mine functions fine.

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    New coil and DME relay, issue persists. Fuel filter Friday and then I guess I’ll throw a crank sensor at it.

    Tested AFM while hooked up to 5V and performed as expected. No dead spots and max opening = max voltage, 4.53V

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  • LJ851
    replied
    It's the crank sensor. I had one fail with exactly the same symptoms.

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  • Gregs///M
    replied
    Originally posted by IceyVert
    Finished bench testing the AFM and I don’t think it’s causing the issue. Definitely will test what I can. Fuel filter and coil will be changed Friday, fingers crossed.

    Question, if stomp test works does that mean TPS is good?
    I saw you tested your AFM with a 9V battery and meter, those are both the incorrect tools to use and will cause you to have false positive test. You must use a 5V supply and a oscilloscope. 9v battery is almost double the voltage the AFM normally sees so if you have a voltage drop, that drop may be there with the DME 5v supply but not there with a 9V battery. A meter displays an average of the voltage, voltage drop can occur in a microsecond and you meter will never be close to catching it. Plus you cant test if the AFM is good or bad if you are looking at the average voltage. Only an oscilloscope can catch a microsecond voltage drop. See my AFM testing thread.

    Yes, the TPS can still be misadjusted even though the stomp test initiates. Perform the testing procedure for the TPS in the Bentley repair manual.

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  • e30davie
    replied
    Maybe, but test it anyway. it only has two switches in it. 100% and 0%. its not a variable TPS like other models.

    You also need to make sure that the TPS is adjusted correctly so that when you go wide open and when it comes back to closed it engages the switches properly.

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    Finished bench testing the AFM and I don’t think it’s causing the issue. Definitely will test what I can. Fuel filter and coil will be changed Friday, fingers crossed.

    Question, if stomp test works does that mean TPS is good?

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  • e30davie
    replied
    Based on this thread you should replace everything :)

    If it were me i would be getting the bently manual out and systematically testing all of the above mentioned sensors, as well as the coolant sensor and any other sensors not mentioned. There are testing regimes for all of them. And if they all check out then start looking at fuel supply.

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  • Gregs///M
    replied
    Typically when the CPS fails, the car will never start.

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    Cap, Rotor and Wires changed. Now does it at 4,100rpm. Definitely runs smoother and starts better, but same issue. Does it at part throttle, full throttle and in N/P. Stomp test revealed no codes - 1444. Guess crank sensor is next.
    Last edited by IceyVert; 07-17-2021, 12:26 PM.

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    I should add occasionally I’ll have an extended cranking time (typically when hot). Does this point towards crank position sensor??

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  • Gregs///M
    replied
    Failing AFM.

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by IceyVert
    Crank wheel? Do you mean CPS? Sorry if I’m not familiar.
    Crank trigger wheel is what he means. The "pulley" on the front of the crank with a toothed wheel around it that the CPS references for crankshaft position.

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  • IceyVert
    replied
    Crank wheel? Do you mean CPS? Sorry if I’m not familiar.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Or loose crank wheel.

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