Another Bogging down issue

[completelyrevlimited]

Good luck man. Sometimes it ends up being something very simple that we overlook due to it being "too simple and easy for that to be it". I suffer from this all the time. I make a simple problem harder by thinking too much.

Much agreed I've suffered from Occam's razor to often too. Unfortunately I'm at 4 weeks down now and the problem just has gotten worse haha.. ha... ha...

My buddies MR2 is in the same boat too. It's definitely unfortunate.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Good luck man. Sometimes it ends up being something very simple that we overlook due to it being "too simple and easy for that to be it". I suffer from this all the time. I make a simple problem harder by thinking too much.

[completelyrevlimited]

You have something not getting a signal or not grounded maybe. Go back through everything that you have done. Start from the beginning and maybe you'll find something that you missed. You can try a new DME but usually this is a sensor or relay or something in the wiring messed up.

Will do.

Just for a sanity check of what I've checked / done this morning:

Started by verifying main relay, grounded pins 36 and 2 on harness, heard clicked.

Jumped fuel pump relay, heard it flow strong and loud.

Verified continuity from pins 17 and 16 from harness to c191 connector, as well as grounded them after grounding I believe (14?) and (19?) Heard and felt those clicked.

CPS had continuity to harness in range of .531 Ohms (I believe I read a +/- of 53 with that.

Cylinder position sensor? Or similar also had a reading of <1 ohm

Verified all grounds on harness grounded.

coolant Temp sensor had a reading of 1.7-1.8 ohms.


will be needing to verify ICV and voltage is reaching Fuel injectors. Though I suspect they are as when I grounded them they fired in banks of 3

Edit: pin layout might be wrong, I'll fix them later and put what I referenced if I remember lol

[It's Soda Not Pop]

You have something not getting a signal or not grounded maybe. Go back through everything that you have done. Start from the beginning and maybe you'll find something that you missed. You can try a new DME but usually this is a sensor or relay or something in the wiring messed up.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Just saw this too, and yes it seems like the OE or atleast an OEM one, kinda of the same color as the other aluminum parts, so I'm assuming it's OE. And verified it was spinning and had continuity.

Would unplugging it cause a no start condition or just a rich condition? I can't remember if I've done it before and it started.

They all look the same. But I promise that they are not. I'm not saying this is your problem I'm just saying this was a problem that I had. All of my cheap ones also worked for the most part. They buzzed, held an idle, etc. but they would randomly cause the car to freak out.

[completelyrevlimited]

Quick question does this still have an OE bosch ICV? I put on a cheap rep one that caused a shit ton of electrically issues. The car would buck or lose power randomly.

Just saw this too, and yes it seems like the OE or atleast an OEM one, kinda of the same color as the other aluminum parts, so I'm assuming it's OE. And verified it was spinning and had continuity.

Would unplugging it cause a no start condition or just a rich condition? I can't remember if I've done it before and it started.

[completelyrevlimited]

Did you test the injectors with a meter yet?

I've been tinkering with the whole harness. Found that I can manually fire the injectors. Verified continuity from pins 17 and 16 to c191, so my next guess might be a new ECU, thoughts?

Edit: will also use a stethoscope while cranking engine to see if I can hear injectors firing as well. Unless something would cause spark but no injectors to be fired?

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Did you test the injectors with a meter yet?

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Quick question does this still have an OE bosch ICV? I put on a cheap rep one that caused a shit ton of electrically issues. The car would buck or lose power randomly.

[completelyrevlimited]

Sorry had to compress the picture, the black looking stuff is Dielectric grease* assumed it would help if corrosion arrises


Edit: Researched it more thoroughly, 87 may or may not have it, and seems like 88 onward has it built into the harness itself

[completelyrevlimited]

Thinking this may be a fuel injector issue, I traced down all ways injectors get power, is this normal? Or am I missing pin 5? I seem to get some voltage when I put my volt meter, however not a very good contact?

[completelyrevlimited]

cps, afm, tps, temp, and 02 sensor are the inputs. i can't see an 02 sensor tossing it out that bad. a lambda code is often linked to a bad 02 sensor, but it's usually just the sensor doing it's job. the code triggers when the air fuel mixture is too lean / too rich and the ecu can not compensate. the root cause could be a few things.

another cheap shot in the dark is checking the fuel rail itself to make sure it is properly seated. it can back out of the intake on occasion. the injectors just pop out of the holes a little, especially if just replaced.
i'm trying to think of everything easy to try. it's taking 20 min to post replies lol

Yeah site seems like it had SQL errors every time I tried to view the site. Seems better now.

I believe I can rule out the AFM (switched with MAF conversion), CPS (changed with old, but was working one), O2 Sensor (see prev.).

TPS is giving continuity on both switches, however I did have a air leak on the springs before, now that I remember (took off throttle springs, patched the small leak, and put it together, two windings is what i heard to be the default tension) , car ran good that day after repair and on the way home it finally bogged down.

Coolant Temp sensor, while possible considered it was giving me a lower reading than in spec. Would that give me a lean mixture? Could that affect driving that bad? Is there a safe guard if the engine is running too hot?

[82eye]

Have one arriving on the 20th, Currently running the AFM to rule that as an issue already :/

cps, afm, tps, temp, and 02 sensor are the inputs. i can't see an 02 sensor tossing it out that bad. a lambda code is often linked to a bad 02 sensor, but it's usually just the sensor doing it's job. the code triggers when the air fuel mixture is too lean / too rich and the ecu can not compensate. the root cause could be a few things.

another cheap shot in the dark is checking the fuel rail itself to make sure it is properly seated. it can back out of the intake on occasion. the injectors just pop out of the holes a little, especially if just replaced.
i'm trying to think of everything easy to try. it's taking 20 min to post replies lol

[completelyrevlimited]

have you got the original afm ? you might try that.


edit : i know it's an odd one but check your blue temp sensor. it sends info to the ecu to help determine how lean or rich to run based on temp. all sorts of weird driving stuff can happen if they go bad.

Have one arriving on the 20th, Currently running the AFM to rule that as an issue already :/

[82eye]

have you got the original afm ? you might try that.


edit : i know it's an odd one but check your blue temp sensor. it sends info to the ecu to help determine how lean or rich to run based on temp. all sorts of weird driving stuff can happen if they go bad.