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To my knowledge there are 4 on my thermostat housing. The ECU coolant sensor, the gauge coolant sensor, the thermo-time switch for cold start injection, and the 45 degree temp switch. Yes it is a 45 degree temp switch on eta cars and does play a part in idle. Mine is working properly it has been tested before, continuity when below 45 degrees and no continuity when above 45 degrees or vice versa I can't remember but it is in fact working properly. Do you mean to eliminate the ECU coolant sensor? And if so, you're right.. BMW doesn't sell a genuine replacement but many companies still make ECU temp sensors for eta cars. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/eng...or-13621357414 This is the one I have on my car right now, it is a fairly new one.yellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.Comment
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yes, there are 4, on the 325e.
- blue for coolant temperature up to 45c, the main fuel mixture control
- brown single pin for instrument cluster
- brown dual pin, thermo time for cold start injector
- yellow for coolant temperature up to 20c, dual pin, yellow top, this is the one you need to bypass
good luck

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Okay, so just to clarify again, you're telling me to bypass sensor 13 on this diagram?yes, there are 4, on the 325e.
- blue for coolant temperature up to 45c, the main fuel mixture control
- brown single pin for instrument cluster
- brown dual pin, thermo time for cold start injector
- yellow for coolant temperature up to 20c, dual pin, yellow top, this is the one you need to bypass
good luckComment
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Okay, 15 has been replaced with a new 45 degree temp switch and is working properly. A company makes these new I forget where they're located but here https://blackstarmanufacture.com/pro...t-temp-switch/Comment
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Whoa thanks for the info guys, I checked mine again after reading this, I had checked it several times. But this time when I pulled the wires off it fell apart and I realized I've only checked it with the engine off, not vibrating. It had been corroded and separated, but when the engine was still it tested fine. After replacing with a jumper, the car idles soooo much better!!Comment

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