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  • emuguru
    replied
    Whoa thanks for the info guys, I checked mine again after reading this, I had checked it several times. But this time when I pulled the wires off it fell apart and I realized I've only checked it with the engine off, not vibrating. It had been corroded and separated, but when the engine was still it tested fine. After replacing with a jumper, the car idles soooo much better!!

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  • hurryupcole
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin
    no. 15
    Okay, 15 has been replaced with a new 45 degree temp switch and is working properly. A company makes these new I forget where they're located but here https://blackstarmanufacture.com/pro...t-temp-switch/

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  • e30austin
    replied
    no. 15

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  • hurryupcole
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin
    yes, there are 4, on the 325e.

    - blue for coolant temperature up to 45c, the main fuel mixture control
    - brown single pin for instrument cluster
    - brown dual pin, thermo time for cold start injector
    - yellow for coolant temperature up to 20c, dual pin, yellow top, this is the one you need to bypass

    good luck
    Okay, so just to clarify again, you're telling me to bypass sensor 13 on this diagram?
    Attached Files

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  • e30austin
    replied
    yes, there are 4, on the 325e.

    - blue for coolant temperature up to 45c, the main fuel mixture control
    - brown single pin for instrument cluster
    - brown dual pin, thermo time for cold start injector
    - yellow for coolant temperature up to 20c, dual pin, yellow top, this is the one you need to bypass

    good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • hurryupcole
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin
    yellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.
    To my knowledge there are 4 on my thermostat housing. The ECU coolant sensor, the gauge coolant sensor, the thermo-time switch for cold start injection, and the 45 degree temp switch. Yes it is a 45 degree temp switch on eta cars and does play a part in idle. Mine is working properly it has been tested before, continuity when below 45 degrees and no continuity when above 45 degrees or vice versa I can't remember but it is in fact working properly. Do you mean to eliminate the ECU coolant sensor? And if so, you're right.. BMW doesn't sell a genuine replacement but many companies still make ECU temp sensors for eta cars. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/eng...or-13621357414 This is the one I have on my car right now, it is a fairly new one.

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  • e30austin
    replied
    Originally posted by jbontke

    Is this the one that also controls the cold start injector?
    no, that's the thermo time switch. the taller brass sensor.

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  • packratbimmer
    replied
    Th Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010232.jpg
Views:	419
Size:	256.5 KB
ID:	10086705 is might help from a 1992 Bosch catalog

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  • jbontke
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin
    yellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.
    Is this the one that also controls the cold start injector?

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  • e30austin
    replied
    yellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.

    Leave a comment:


  • jbontke
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin
    you need to eliminate the yellow coolant temperature sensor. cut the ends off the connector and bridge the wires together.
    What is the purpose? The coolant temp sensor changes the maps the ECU uses. Does this trick it to choose one particular temp for fuel mapping?

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  • e30austin
    replied
    you need to eliminate the yellow coolant temperature sensor. cut the ends off the connector and bridge the wires together. report back.

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  • packratbimmer
    replied
    Also, if you are still running a cat, it is likely that you are just loading it up with unburned crud between idle and open road "cycles." The oxy sensor is key here.

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  • 82eye
    replied
    Originally posted by hurryupcole

    I am going to an exhaust shop this week to get a new system and bung for an o2 sensor installed into it. I already have a new o2 sensor waiting for the exhaust. I don't believe that is my problem because the car ran fine without it for a year. But I am still going to get it running how it is supposed to be. I guess this would affect my fuel economy as well.
    it throws the car in to a closed loop. the ecu in motronic 1.1 won't change things by a lot, but it can't do much of anything without the 02 input. i would expect it to result in a poor warm running condition.

    you mention you have trouble right from start up though, so the missing 02 sensor may be only one part of the problem.

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  • hurryupcole
    replied
    Originally posted by 82eye


    there was something about no 02 sensor in there as well. first thing i would do is get the car back to stock.
    I am going to an exhaust shop this week to get a new system and bung for an o2 sensor installed into it. I already have a new o2 sensor waiting for the exhaust. I don't believe that is my problem because the car ran fine without it for a year. But I am still going to get it running how it is supposed to be. I guess this would affect my fuel economy as well.

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