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The walk of "no-start" shame... I need help diagnosing crank but no start

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    The walk of "no-start" shame... I need help diagnosing crank but no start

    I've got a '90 325i with m20b25 that cranks, but refuses to start. Just cranks - not even trying to start.
    I am at the end of my rope. I am not sure what to do. Looking for help!

    I just replaced the following:
    -Thermostat (mahle)
    -Temp Sensor & Sender (bosch & beck-arnley)
    -Timing Belt Kit (continental)
    -Water Pump (gates)
    -V-Belts (gates/continental)
    -Distributor & Rotor (bremi)
    -Spark Plugs (ngk 5077 zgr5a)
    -Air Filter (mahle)
    -All Coolant Hoses
    -Valve Cover vent hose
    -Fuel filter (bosch)
    -Oil change
    -Valve Lashing adjusted to 0.010" (cold)

    The car was in good condition and running normal before I did the work.
    When the timing belt was replaced - the camshaft and crankshaft were both aligned with the respective markings on the timing covers - I assume that means the engine was at TDC.
    As far as I know the camshaft sprocket, adapter, and ignition rotor cannot be installed backwards / out of phase.
    When I hand-turn the crankshaft there is no indication of valve/piston interference; everything feels smooth.
    Starter and Battery are giving strong crank. Battery tender to keep the battery topped up.


    Air
    -AFM - Flap moving freely; multimeter reading a range of resistances
    -ICV - Activating/Buzzing when I turn the Key
    -I have tried to start the engine with the ICV removed; AFM removed; and both removed.
    -No obvious signs of cracked rubber or air leaks. The intake boot in good condition. Evap hose is good. Throttle assembly seems to be operating normally
    -Coolant temp sensor reading 2500 ohms


    Fuel
    -Used the fuel pump to empty the tank, and added 1 gallon fresh premium fuel
    -Fuel relay jumpered - fuel pump activates
    -Voltage tested at fuel pump when cranking - fuel pump receiving voltage and activating
    -Fuel pressure measured in-line just before the fuel rail - 44 psi
    -Injectors removed, cleaned, test fired at 20psi with mineral spirits (pressure bleeder + 12v battery), purged with air, and replaced the Orings
    -Injector wiring harness connectivity tested - OK
    -C191 is dry and clean
    -Injectors audibly click when cranking engine
    -Spark plugs look wet and smell of fuel when removed

    Compression
    All six cylinders reading between 160-180 psi after five cranks on a cold engine

    Spark
    -Blue spark visible when I ground a plug to the exhaust / valve cover.
    -Spark plugs adjusted to 0.027" gap
    -I did not use dielectric grease on the internal rotor/distributor.
    ​-CPS gap 1mm, 800 ohms
    -Check engine light illuminates
    -Coil measures 0.50 and 5500 ohms
    -Main relay jumpered - engine still didnt start
    ​​
    Timing
    -I am not sure how to test the timing specifically. But when I did the timing belt the sprockets essentially didn't move.
    -I tensioned the timing belt by releasing the spring, hand turning two revolutions and then tightening.
    -I have to assume the crankshaft and camshaft timing is valid.


    Is it possible to have a spark that is not strong enough to even get the engine to cough?
    What am I missing?

    #2
    First, check the rotor, it is difficult, but not impossible to put it on wrong. Check you have the spark plug wires going to the correct spark plug. Is the crank position sensor connected and installed correctly. Finally, I would verify you kept the crank and cam in alignment.

    It is very hard to verify your own work. You tend to assume. Go slow and verify.
    2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

    Comment


      #3
      how does the fusible link look?
      i'd smoke test for leaks. you can't get them all on a visual at all. i'd expect the engine to at least try to catch if it was only leaks though.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by tomstin View Post
        First, check the rotor, it is difficult, but not impossible to put it on wrong. Check you have the spark plug wires going to the correct spark plug. Is the crank position sensor connected and installed correctly. Finally, I would verify you kept the crank and cam in alignment.

        It is very hard to verify your own work. You tend to assume. Go slow and verify.
        Thank you. I just spent like 2 weeks fiddling. You saved me from more despair. Rotor was def on backwards. You can see the indentation on the pic. I feel kinda dumb lol.

        Click image for larger version

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