I've got a '90 325i with m20b25 that cranks, but refuses to start. Just cranks - not even trying to start.
I am at the end of my rope. I am not sure what to do. Looking for help!
I just replaced the following:
-Thermostat (mahle)
-Temp Sensor & Sender (bosch & beck-arnley)
-Timing Belt Kit (continental)
-Water Pump (gates)
-V-Belts (gates/continental)
-Distributor & Rotor (bremi)
-Spark Plugs (ngk 5077 zgr5a)
-Air Filter (mahle)
-All Coolant Hoses
-Valve Cover vent hose
-Fuel filter (bosch)
-Oil change
-Valve Lashing adjusted to 0.010" (cold)
The car was in good condition and running normal before I did the work.
When the timing belt was replaced - the camshaft and crankshaft were both aligned with the respective markings on the timing covers - I assume that means the engine was at TDC.
As far as I know the camshaft sprocket, adapter, and ignition rotor cannot be installed backwards / out of phase.
When I hand-turn the crankshaft there is no indication of valve/piston interference; everything feels smooth.
Starter and Battery are giving strong crank. Battery tender to keep the battery topped up.
Air
-AFM - Flap moving freely; multimeter reading a range of resistances
-ICV - Activating/Buzzing when I turn the Key
-I have tried to start the engine with the ICV removed; AFM removed; and both removed.
-No obvious signs of cracked rubber or air leaks. The intake boot in good condition. Evap hose is good. Throttle assembly seems to be operating normally
-Coolant temp sensor reading 2500 ohms
Fuel
-Used the fuel pump to empty the tank, and added 1 gallon fresh premium fuel
-Fuel relay jumpered - fuel pump activates
-Voltage tested at fuel pump when cranking - fuel pump receiving voltage and activating
-Fuel pressure measured in-line just before the fuel rail - 44 psi
-Injectors removed, cleaned, test fired at 20psi with mineral spirits (pressure bleeder + 12v battery), purged with air, and replaced the Orings
-Injector wiring harness connectivity tested - OK
-C191 is dry and clean
-Injectors audibly click when cranking engine
-Spark plugs look wet and smell of fuel when removed
Compression
All six cylinders reading between 160-180 psi after five cranks on a cold engine
Spark
-Blue spark visible when I ground a plug to the exhaust / valve cover.
-Spark plugs adjusted to 0.027" gap
-I did not use dielectric grease on the internal rotor/distributor.
-CPS gap 1mm, 800 ohms
-Check engine light illuminates
-Coil measures 0.50 and 5500 ohms
-Main relay jumpered - engine still didnt start
Timing
-I am not sure how to test the timing specifically. But when I did the timing belt the sprockets essentially didn't move.
-I tensioned the timing belt by releasing the spring, hand turning two revolutions and then tightening.
-I have to assume the crankshaft and camshaft timing is valid.
Is it possible to have a spark that is not strong enough to even get the engine to cough?
What am I missing?
I am at the end of my rope. I am not sure what to do. Looking for help!
I just replaced the following:
-Thermostat (mahle)
-Temp Sensor & Sender (bosch & beck-arnley)
-Timing Belt Kit (continental)
-Water Pump (gates)
-V-Belts (gates/continental)
-Distributor & Rotor (bremi)
-Spark Plugs (ngk 5077 zgr5a)
-Air Filter (mahle)
-All Coolant Hoses
-Valve Cover vent hose
-Fuel filter (bosch)
-Oil change
-Valve Lashing adjusted to 0.010" (cold)
The car was in good condition and running normal before I did the work.
When the timing belt was replaced - the camshaft and crankshaft were both aligned with the respective markings on the timing covers - I assume that means the engine was at TDC.
As far as I know the camshaft sprocket, adapter, and ignition rotor cannot be installed backwards / out of phase.
When I hand-turn the crankshaft there is no indication of valve/piston interference; everything feels smooth.
Starter and Battery are giving strong crank. Battery tender to keep the battery topped up.
Air
-AFM - Flap moving freely; multimeter reading a range of resistances
-ICV - Activating/Buzzing when I turn the Key
-I have tried to start the engine with the ICV removed; AFM removed; and both removed.
-No obvious signs of cracked rubber or air leaks. The intake boot in good condition. Evap hose is good. Throttle assembly seems to be operating normally
-Coolant temp sensor reading 2500 ohms
Fuel
-Used the fuel pump to empty the tank, and added 1 gallon fresh premium fuel
-Fuel relay jumpered - fuel pump activates
-Voltage tested at fuel pump when cranking - fuel pump receiving voltage and activating
-Fuel pressure measured in-line just before the fuel rail - 44 psi
-Injectors removed, cleaned, test fired at 20psi with mineral spirits (pressure bleeder + 12v battery), purged with air, and replaced the Orings
-Injector wiring harness connectivity tested - OK
-C191 is dry and clean
-Injectors audibly click when cranking engine
-Spark plugs look wet and smell of fuel when removed
Compression
All six cylinders reading between 160-180 psi after five cranks on a cold engine
Spark
-Blue spark visible when I ground a plug to the exhaust / valve cover.
-Spark plugs adjusted to 0.027" gap
-I did not use dielectric grease on the internal rotor/distributor.
-CPS gap 1mm, 800 ohms
-Check engine light illuminates
-Coil measures 0.50 and 5500 ohms
-Main relay jumpered - engine still didnt start
Timing
-I am not sure how to test the timing specifically. But when I did the timing belt the sprockets essentially didn't move.
-I tensioned the timing belt by releasing the spring, hand turning two revolutions and then tightening.
-I have to assume the crankshaft and camshaft timing is valid.
Is it possible to have a spark that is not strong enough to even get the engine to cough?
What am I missing?
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