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Why does my m20 start when my wires are flipped?

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    Why does my m20 start when my wires are flipped?

    Hello,

    I bought my first e30 about 6 months back. I picked it up in Pasco, WA and drove it the 4 hours to Seattle without any *major* issues. (My throttle cable came unhooked from the pedal, and I had to duct tape it back to get home the last hour :D)

    The car was purchased as my first real project. I’m a computer scientist, and have strong engineering fundamentals but about no knowledge of engines (yet). I have been working to clean it up, starting with a fluid swap and timing belt change. The belt wasn’t terrible, but since I had no clue when the last time it was changed, I decided best to do it now and be certain, since I know a broken belt can cause catastrophic engine damage.

    So, I went ahead and got all the parts for a full fluid flush and belt change / tune up, including a new water pump, distributor cap/rotor, etc. (kept my ignition wires). I stripped it all down, following the Bentley manual and various online videos / forums here, and put it all back together, including the new distributor cap.

    Once I got it together, it wouldn’t start. I figured maybe since it was my first time doing the job, perhaps I slipped a tooth on the belt or something. So, I stripped it down and re did it.

    Again, no start. I figured, damn I’m kind of a noob, maybe 3rd times the charm. But, just in case, I threw the old distributor back on and plugs, and ensured the c1 was plugged into 1 on the distributor cap, and so forth. I also tested the fuel pressure, and spark. I had both, and plenty of them. I noticed sometimes when cranking, that it seemed to kind of back fire on maybe one cyl, but very rarely and usually after I stopped cranking.

    When double (like quadruple at this point) checking my timing marks, I used a screwdriver to also verify C1 was at top dead center, even after cranking it a few times. It all was right, TDC with the timing marks both aligned. I did notice however, that my rotor mount was facing 180 degrees from every manual and video I saw. First photo is an example of someone else’s, 2nd is mine. 3rd shows how the cam has an alignment hole, which prevents me from mounting the sprocket, and rotor up any other way.

    I noticed that the rotor is set to strike c6 when aligned at TDC, so, I swapped my 1/6, 2/5, and 3/4 wires going into my distributor cap, and boom the engine fired right up, sounds and runs just as it did before when I first got it.

    I have talked to a few buddies locally, and one who's friend had done 25+ M20 timing belts and never seen this. Does anyone know what’s going on? I have no history on the motor, no clue what previous owners may have done. All I know is that it still seems to run strong. Am I at risk of anything?

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    #2
    you probably installed the little adapter piece that holds the rotor button incorrect (180 degrees out) or the camgear pin is missing. it is indexed but ive seen people screw it up before especially non mechanically minded.

    if you have an aftermarket cam the hole could have been drilled 180 out but this is not the most likely culprit

    your timing marks look out by about a tooth as well accounting for parallax error
    Last edited by digger; 06-15-2024, 08:24 PM.
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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      #3
      Old photos, timing is fine after I did it the 3rd time... It runs great. I’m just curious what the deal is with it being 180 off.

      The adapter/rotor all is installed the only way it will fit actually. It was this exact same way before I even touched it; so sounds like the previous owner drilled the cam alignment hole on the wrong side. That’s the only thing that makes any sense, because without modifying or breaking tabs on the rotor holder it won’t go another way.

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        #4
        the middle prong on the adapter is clearly pointing the wrong way so it’s on backwards relative to the cam gear. What was modified by the PO to get it to work that way I don’t know. I wouldn’t be perpetuating mistakes if I was you if not just for the next person who has to deal with it

        were the wires flipped originally before you started the job ?
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #5
          digger yeah the wires were swapped before I started the job. Thankfully I took some videos, and had taped/labeled each wire (because I thankfully didn’t realize the wires had numbers printed on them already). That’s how I was able to finally understand what was going on and start it again.

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            #6
            1987 BMW 325I - Timing belt, camshaft seal, CPS , accessory belts, water pump. then No start. Think I'm having same problem. No start after timing belt change and cam shaft seal replacement. Think tiny hole in dust cover is supposed to align with dowel on camshaft sprocket and therefore rotor is out of alignment? Can anybody confirm? Do i have to remove timing belt covers or can i just remove rotor mount and realign. Probably should ensure timing marks again before?

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