testing fuel pumps/relay

[dystynkt]

GO find a relay intended for foglights: look for 2 terminals marked "87", but none marked "87a"...in other words, a SPST relay that has 2 NO contacts...and REPLACE YOUR MAIN RELAY!

I have had 3 or 4 cars lately do the EXACT same thing you are describing. Main relay each time, and it is the only relay configured like that on the entire car, so no swapping allowed.

GL!
Luke

Good to hear and will do. I actually just went out to the car right now and it started fine after a week of not starting. I will order a main relay tomorrow morning. Thanks!!!

[dystynkt]

I don't want to sound like an idiot, but just want to make sure I have this right. on the drivers side of the engine bay there are three relays under a cover. The center one is the fuel pump relay, the one furthest to the back is the main relay (which I should replace) correct? Thanks again for all your help everyone!

[Hallen]

I don't want to sound like an idiot, but just want to make sure I have this right. on the drivers side of the engine bay there are three relays under a cover. The center one is the fuel pump relay, the one furthest to the back is the main relay (which I should replace) correct? Thanks again for all your help everyone!

The one closest the the rear of the engine bay is the main relay. It's always good to confirm.

[jlevie]

Those relays just clip into the mount. Prior work on the car can result in something other than the factory positions, so you have to go by wire colors to know which is which. The order, from production, would be main relay closest to the bumper, then fuel, and closest to the firewall is O2 heater relay on an M20B25.

[mojorising]

I had a problem similar to this one where I had serious trouble starting the car and it was clearly a fuel issue (spark was fine, MAF sensor fine etc). After pumping the hell out of the gas pedal for like 30 seconds it would barely start but once it started it would idle ok. I thought at first that it was fuel pump relay as in every other car I have driven the fuel pump kicks on and pressurizes the system after you turn on the ignition. Turns out this isn't how it works. I finally replaced the fuel filter and completely removed the fuel pulse absorber and it seemed to start fine after that. I spliced in a fuel pressure gauge and it read fine, fuel press reg was working great at about 45psi. Of course most of this was with a blown head gasket so who knows what kind of problems that was causing as well. Anyway, the real test will be when I get it back together to see if it will start up. Let us know when you get it figured out.

[dystynkt]

Replacing the main relay fixed the problem. Thanks for all the help!!

[dystynkt]

Ok so forget that last post it somewhat worked. Once I popped in the new main relay the car started up just fine and ran fine. Drove it around the block and it was going good. Car got 20 or so mins from my house on the freeway and just died. Same issue now it cranks but wont start. It definitely isn't the main relay because I had another extra I popped in and it didn't help. Pleeeeease help the car is now stranded and I need to figure out what the heck is wrong with it. fuel pump issue possibly? the pressure at the rail checked out fine the other day though.

[Philo]

DME swap time. Post up in our regional forums. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=152 Someone should be close enough to you to lend a dme. Also if there is any shops around town, they can be a help sometimes.

[dystynkt]

DME swap time. Post up in our regional forums. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=152 Someone should be close enough to you to lend a dme. Also if there is any shops around town, they can be a help sometimes.

DME took care of it. Thanks for the assistance!