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    #16
    Is that your battery in the engine bay? I always wondered why that battery tray was there, when my battery was in the trunk. I guess it's a carry over from the vert.
    1987 BMW 325i (daily) (LS1/T56 swap complete!)

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      #17
      Yeah, my bat is up front. I am not sure but it must be a carry over from the vert design. On another note, the head is finally finished and ready to go back in. Unfortuantely I am waiting on a paycheck to get the head back from the machinist. It needed a new cam, new rockers and new valve guides so as you can imagine it got real expensive real quick. I will post some new pics this week when I get it back.

      Oh yeah, I finally have some garage space for my baby too!!!! =)

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        #18
        The battery is in the engine compartment on the vert because the rear is braced where the battery in other cars is mounted, so there's no room for the battery.

        Welcome to the R3v, maybe I'll see you around in NC.

        Ha, that engine bay looks familiar--

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          #19
          Awww.... someone else who feels my pain.... I figured that was why with the battery. I am in the process of cleaning up the enginer bay/random engine components and covers. It was a freakin mess in there. I bet that is hasn't been cleaned since it pulled off the dealer lot. Sadly you won't be seeing my car for a few months but when you do she will be purring like a kitten!

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            #20
            Originally posted by mojorising View Post
            when you do she will be purring like a kitten!
            Sounds good. I'm up in Mooresville a good bit, the Cookout there is the best around.

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              #21
              Originally posted by mojorising View Post
              Awww.... someone else who feels my pain.... I figured that was why with the battery. I am in the process of cleaning up the enginer bay/random engine components and covers. It was a freakin mess in there. I bet that is hasn't been cleaned since it pulled off the dealer lot. Sadly you won't be seeing my car for a few months but when you do she will be purring like a kitten!

              I feel it too, just pray it DOES purr like a kitten when its all together. I am still dealing with issues 3 weeks after assembly. Its runs great........half the time, the other half, ehhh, not so much.

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                #22
                What new components did you purchase with your head rebuild? New cap/rotor, plugs etc? Did you have a machine shop deck the head, how much was it warped? I haven't gotten the full scoop from the shop I used but I will post it when I do. In case anyone is interested in the Charlotte area I had the work done at Battery and Ignition Auto Parts in south Charlotte. They were recommended to me by Bavarian Auto Service (Bob Shields shop) out of Rock Hill, SC. I was a little disappointed in that they didn't tell me that they needed to replace all of the valve guides as I could have gotten them a lot cheaper than 7.50 a piece but whatever, they also charged me $116 for a head gasket set when I could have gotten one for $84 bucks. As I said I haven't gotten the final product yet so I will reserve my judgment till I see how they did on the head.

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                  #23
                  Head is back and it looks great. Need to pick up a few more parts to put everything back together, belts, water pump etc but other than that I should be in good shape. I started a thread under the projects section to continue this project build so please refer to there for future updates. Oh yeah, I need a name for my car!!!

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                    #24
                    My car had a lot of issues when I got it due to lack of upkeep from the PO, so I replaced a lot. The timing belt broke, thats why I got it so cheap.
                    I bought a new:
                    Head-
                    Decked, not that warped, but good insurance
                    valve guide seals
                    valve lapping
                    water pump
                    thermostat
                    timing belt
                    timing belt tensioner
                    fan clutch
                    coolant temp sensor
                    head gasket set (of course)
                    cap
                    rotor
                    plugs
                    fuel filter
                    fuel pressure regulator
                    intake boot
                    vacuum lines
                    fuel lines
                    oil change
                    cleaned all the ground locations and changed the big wire going from the unibody to the motor
                    a/c o-rings
                    air filter
                    cleaned idle control valve
                    cleaned throttle body
                    cleaned the air flow sensor
                    cleaned the main injector/temp sensor plug

                    still need:
                    plug wires
                    fuel pump
                    DME relay
                    fuel pump relay
                    throttle switches
                    a/c drier (a/c still doesnt work)



                    EDIT: clean as much of that stuff as you can to ensure the car run as good as possible. Most of it can be cleaned with throttle body or brake cleaner, but I used Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner on it all, just because it is electrical component friendly IMO. If it is gentle enough for a mass air flow sensor, it should be good for anything. It is about $9 a can but cheap insurance to be certain you dont damage a $100-$150 part. It works great too!

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