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    Intake Manifold

    Hello, I was looking for some directions on replacing the intake manifold. I didn't find anything using the search function. It doesn't seem like it should be too hard...right?

    #2
    It shouldnt be, as long as you are some-what mechanically inclined. Just remove everything attached to it and anything in your way. I just put mine on, was fairly easy.

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      #3
      should be a 1-2 hour job, I think

      just take your time and take pictures
      1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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        #4
        Originally posted by SpecM View Post
        should be a 1-2 hour job, I think

        just take your time and take pictures
        it'll be a day/weekend job for a newbie....
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #5
          It's pretty easy to do, but there are a few things you have to disconnect including the fuel rail.

          Make sure all, and I mean all, of the old manifold gasket is removed before putting the new gasket on and reinstalling. Any differences in thickness at the gasket will cause the manifold to crack when you reinstall it.
          1987 E30 325is
          1999 E46 323i
          RIP 1994 E32 740iL
          oo=[][]=oo

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            #6
            Just did mine last weekend. Took a six pack and about two hours. You really don't need any directions. If it's in the way, take it out.

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              #7
              on my 89 there is one very long stud into the head, its the center one.

              there are 12 nuts holding it on, and you do not need to remove the water-thermostat, although it may seem necessary if your car is dirty or grimy.


              there is also an ' oil return' pipe, that is spring loaded, and if its not moving, try twisting it, and pushing down into the block (replace all seals btw), do NOT use vice grips as this tube will bend.

              also, if you have a c191 plug, that should be easy...i bypassed mine, and luckily foreseen this, and used a new silver connection all labelled up...(long story).

              when replacing the gaskets, be CERTAIN to set them up correctly, as many have inverted them 180 degrees and further restricting the air flow.

              also use high tack gasket sealent (its red, oil resistant etc) to prevent future air leaks.

              i recomend new nuts (i did this job more than once) and the nuts i prefer are like my exhaust side..they are specially crimped to be "off round", and they will not back off, as some have been known to do on other m20s.


              heres some shots of mine..
              had a huge leak at #6, but found i also had #'s 1, and 5 too.

              when i rebuilt it, i was sure to use proper torques, but i used a spray on aerosol type gasket sealer..which i think did not set properly...





              .

              Last edited by idanity; 06-03-2009, 11:16 PM. Reason: messed up the copy/ paste and a double post
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                #8
                When putting the spring loaded tube back in, compress the spring with a couple zip ties, after it is in place, cut the ties. That thing is a PITA to re-install and this method helps with all the swearing.

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