CAM Seal...

[sector6]

I apologize in advance if this question has already been posted...

I dropped off my 89' 325is at a local shop to have it looked over since I just bought it. They said it checked out just fine! BUT - it does need a CAM Seal and a oil return line. I found the seal at BAV, np.
My question, how much of a pain in the ass is it going to be to replace the CAM seal? I'm new to e30's and not very familiar with them yet :oops:(Had a 02' GTI 1.8T previous to my new e30).

Something I should leave to the pros or should a novice be able to handle it at home?? Perhaps nothing to worry about?? Any advise is appreciated!
Thanks guys!! Paul

[Naplm00]

its an easy fix,


get the seal AND Oring for the seal housing


You will also need to get a Timing belt and tensioner since you will be releaving the tension on the belt, and a Waterpump and seal if you want to be really through

you will also need an external Torx or Etorx socket, i forget what size to remove the cam pulley,

Start by removing the plugs, wires, cap, radiator hoses, drain coolant, fan shroud, fan clutch.

then put car in gear with wheels on ground and loosten the cam pulley bolt (Etorx)

remove the TB covers and the waterpump and pulley, remove the TB tesioner and the TB.

Remove the cam pulley, remove the 2 m6 bolts holding on the seal housing, pull out old seal and remove housing oring, Press in new seal using a vise or press and a seal driver or very large socket, replace Or ing and lightly lube, tap into place with deadblow hammer, replace 2 M6 bolts, replace pulley, install new waterpump and seal , tenioner and TB, TB covers, hoses, cap , rotor and wires


done



make sure to read through the TB procedure as you will need to pay attention to some markings to c omplete correctly


everyone needs to do this at least once, I would adjust the valves after and replace oil and filter for a job well done



good luck


EDIT:: I should say its an easy fix when you get to the component that is an issue

[sector6]

Cool, thanks for the reply! Sounds a bit time consuming! haha
The car has a new TB/WP as of 1000 miles ago, Should I still need to install new ones?

Thanks again for the reply!
Paul

[Naplm00]

unfortunatley, since you will be removing the tension from the belt, yes you would have to replace it, you could forgo the water pump though


If i were you and it not a bad leak, skip it until next year or next time you are doing the hoses or TB, then you can do it all at once


if its leaking alot, do it

if it just barly weeping, leave it

[Hallen]

Exactly, if it is just drooling a bit, just keep it wiped down and watch it. It isn't a big deal unless it's losing a lot of oil there.

Unfortunately, it should have been done with the timing belt. That's the best time to do it.

[sector6]

I'll have to take a look at it myself and see how bad it's leaking or whats going on with it. I really appreciate the help.
Thanks for your time!

[nando]

unfortunatley, since you will be removing the tension from the belt, yes you would have to replace it, you could forgo the water pump though

I know this is the conventional wisdom, but it's not true. I've done it myself; seeing how I have non-interference pistons, I thought I'd give it a shot just to see what would happen. had that timing belt for 30,000 miles before I replaced it (had to fix a leaky WP and cam seal). If it has half the miles of a required service (20,000 miles or more), I'd replace it, but with only 1000 miles it will be fine. I think a couple of the guys who are techs (mikeedler?) said they do it all the time at the shops they work at, too.

[Spaz]

I know this is the conventional wisdom, but it's not true. I've done it myself; seeing how I have non-interference pistons, I thought I'd give it a shot just to see what would happen. had that timing belt for 30,000 miles before I replaced it (had to fix a leaky WP and cam seal). If it has half the miles of a required service (20,000 miles or more), I'd replace it, but with only 1000 miles it will be fine. I think a couple of the guys who are techs (mikeedler?) said they do it all the time at the shops they work at, too.

When i was a tech i did it as well, no reason to replace the belt if it has lots of life left.
Just make sure when you reinstall the belt, that it is put back into service rotating the same way that it came out.

-Cam

[sector6]

Guys, thanks for the excellent responses. I should have her home tomorrow. Will clean her up and see how she looks. I'll hold off if it doesn't look too bad. Thanks again!

[kishg]

last i checked timing belts weren't expensive. it's the time/labor to get to it that counts (whether you do it yourself or not) cheap insurance to replace it imo.

[I got it, yes!!]

you sure its a torx? on my head it was just an allen

[nando]

you sure its a torx? on my head it was just an allen

depends on the year

[Naplm00]

yea forgot to mention


I forgot tyhat my early ETA had a 10mm (i think) mangled allen in there

and the 88 had a Etorx

[TrentW]

When installing the cam seal, it's good insurance to apply some Hylomar sealant on the o-ring seal.

I agree with nando on reusing a timing belt with less than 1000 miles on it also.

[sector6]

Will look into the Hylomar sealant. thanks for the tip!