Timing belt condition.

[danalyse]

Bought a car with 117K on it. Was told that the belt had been replaced at 112K. Not sure whether to believe as the water pump and fan clutch are shot and probably were then but perhaps the PO POS cheaped out and did not replace them. Any way to tell the condition of the dreaded timing belt.

[EightiesBaby]

other than a visual inspection for cracks, but i wouldnt chance it, just replace the damn things to be safe

[kishg]

replace.. tb isn't expensive. if your going to do h20 pump anyways your more than halfway there.

[danalyse]

The thing is that the car may need a head gasket as well and if that is the case does one have to completely remove the timing belt or can you loosen the camshaft pulley and when reinstalling the pulley, assuming you get the timing right, angle the pulley with the belt on it that draw the hole thing tight.

[whiltebeitel]

Ok, having done this recently, just do the timing belt at the same time. The ribs make it really easy to keep everything lined up if you take a little time. It also gets the timing belt out of your way when repalcing the water pump, you'll have the peace-of-mind of a fresh timing belt, and the belts aren't really supposed to be reused after they are loosened anyway.

Continental belts ftw.

[jlevie]

If you are going to remove the head, replace the belt. The only time I'd suggest reusing a belt would be if there had been less than 20 miles put on the car since the belt was changed.

And if there is any doubt as to the age of a timing belt (i.e., you don't have a receipt from the shop that changed it showing the mileage at time of change), replace the belt and water pump.

[danalyse]

Well I got the pump out and I assume that all that remains is removing the crank pulley, etc. and cover. Should I replace the tensioner. How do I hold to I hold the crank from spinning. Will the belt need to be undone from below if the head comes off.

[nando]

replace both the belt and tensioner

you do not have to remove the crank pulley to change the belt. the only thing you have to undo is the tensioner.

[e30slut]

you do have to remove the pully on the m20.. the pully and the Crank position toothed wheel/blancer.


you should get a 17mm wrench iirc... put that on the crank bolt and undo the 6 or so smaller bolts on the inner part of the pulley.. the big ass crank bolt does not need to be touched other than help from moving by the wrench...

those bolts can be a bitch. take you time.

also there are timing marks on the toothed wheel and on the crank itself. so line up with the crank and make sure every thing is still lined up after reassembly by checking the O|T mark on the toothed wheel....

you need patience for this shit

[nando]

I was assuming he meant the big crank bolt. yes the toothed wheel needs to be removed, but that's rarely very difficult. the crank turning isn't usually an issue unless they were way overtightened.

[e30slut]

mine was way overtightened.. then half the bolts were stripped... omg pain.

[RangerGress]

mine was way overtightened.. then half the bolts were stripped... omg pain.

That sucks, but it's still better then destroying your head because the tbelt snapped.


They have special sockets which are made to remove rounded bolts. Soak the bolts in PB Blaster and then try one of those sockets. If that doesn't work, pull the radiator so you can get to the front of our motor and drill out the bolts for an EZ out.