Originally posted by supra89t
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Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.
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Originally posted by 884door View PostPutting the cam in is pointless without the intake and throttle body. The car might actually be slower because the cam shifts the powerband up the RPM range then you're not flowing enough air to make the power up there.
PM Me if you need the TB and manifold for cheap.
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Ok thanks pics would deffinately help. my seta might be in the clear. it was built 3/87. I will look out for that durring the build. now i dont have to rebuild my existing I head with 250k on it i'll just sell that whole motor minus the mani's.
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Originally posted by Stoner Sam23 View Postonly some or all? can that be easily modified. does it have to be?
Any machine shop can add the extra oil holes in, and yes you have to have them to run an I cam. I'll dig up a pic in a while here.
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only some or all? can that be easily modified. does it have to be?
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Originally posted by Stoner Sam23 View PostWow this is a very informative thread! is there a difference between the I and seta head? not talking springs,cam,rockers. is the core, porting, and valve sizes all the same?
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Wow this is a very informative thread! is there a difference between the I and seta head? not talking springs,cam,rockers. is the core, porting, and valve sizes all the same?
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Originally posted by supra89t View PostSo the car will run and drive with the seta parts but performance will not be at 100% at the top end of the rev range due to the restriction posed by the seta parts, right?
PM Me if you need the TB and manifold for cheap.Last edited by 884door; 04-17-2010, 07:00 PM.
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So the car will run and drive with the seta parts but performance will not be at 100% at the top end of the rev range due to the restriction posed by the seta parts, right?
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Originally posted by supra89t View PostOK, stupid question from the newb...I have an '88 seta and:
325i 173 ECU
325i valve springs & rockers
325i cam
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
Do I *need* the i manifold, throttle body and TPS? Will the 173 ecu read the seta TPS properly? I guess the real question is are the i intake parts mandatory to make the car run or upgrades to the restrictive seta parts? My budget on this is super-tight so I need to re-use anything I can and upgrade later as funds come available.
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Originally posted by Flash View PostIf you have a super eta, this is all you need period....
325i 173 ECU
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side
thats it, nothing more, nothing less.
If your head is only drilled for 4 journals its like 20 bucks at a machine shop to get the additional holes drilled. You need a timing belt and tensioner, head gasket set, head bolt set, and water pump. Thats it.
Im still surprised that with all this information available there is still so much misinformation.
THIS is a definitive list for the super eta, its tried and true, other parts eliminated via realoem, you already have 325i injectors, wiring harness, pump etc...
325i 173 ECU
325i valve springs & rockers
325i cam
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
Do I *need* the i manifold, throttle body and TPS? Will the 173 ecu read the seta TPS properly? I guess the real question is are the i intake parts mandatory to make the car run or upgrades to the restrictive seta parts? My budget on this is super-tight so I need to re-use anything I can and upgrade later as funds come available.
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My super eta budget stroker is done and is running very well. Seat of the pants says I picked up low and mid-range over my "I". I did get the flywheel lightened and do recommend that modification. It ended up at 13-14 lbs.
I was stressing the last couple of days because it was running like shit; until I found out that #6 injector was un-plugged and #1 intake's eccentric was really loose, allowing the eccentric/rocker to bang on the valve stem. That was causing the knocking that was freaking me out. So much for adjusting the valves prior to installing the engine.
OP, I hope yours turns out just as well.
DD
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Originally posted by bataangpinoy View Postfyi the 153 dme has two boards in it, held together with plastic rivets. the 173 and 380 are single board units.
i did the head swap on my seta powered 325is(blew the b25) with the head you sent me.
pulls great, but gives me and idle issue when cold.
just make sure that you use new vac hoses or prepare to suffer trying to chase out leaks and isle issues.
There were discussions elsewhere regarding the 153 versus the 173/380, and as you pointed out, the software is the same, btu the single- versus double-boards make it more difficult to find a chip for the 153.
Just a consideration for people considering the build.
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fyi the 153 dme has two boards in it, held together with plastic rivets. the 173 and 380 are single board units.
i did the head swap on my seta powered 325is(blew the b25) with the head you sent me.
pulls great, but gives me and idle issue when cold.
just make sure that you use new vac hoses or prepare to suffer trying to chase out leaks and isle issues.
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