Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.

[Aptyp]

there is a lot of confusion over what models came with what ECU.. I don't know this answer, but I do know that not "all" late cars came with a 380, or a 173, etc. as lots of people will claim. Firstly, they're all exactly the same thing. There may have been small changes to the software, but I laid a 173 and 525 side by side, and I couldn't tell any difference (now compare the 153 and 173, it's apples/oranges inside). Component for component, all 1.3 ECUs are identical. You can run any one you wish.

there were also way more 1.3 ECUs out there, and even more outside the US market (for things like the 320i).

525 came on automatics and didn't have fuel cut-off. That's the only difference between it and 153.

I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.

[phenryiv1]

I would NOT re-use that cap, rotor, or any of the hoses

and the s-eta and the "i"s had the same radiator and alternator, why swap?

I'll just lay it out there-

EVERYTHING in this thread- head, accessories, DME (actually, 2 of them [a 153 and a 380], now), hoses, radiator, a 'vert FSB, cluster, spare motronic harness, radiator, plug wires, cap, rotor, alternator, Throttle Body, MAF, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, a pair of 5.25" Eclipse coaxials, a glove box latch, and a leather e-brake handle/boot from a 5/7 series- were all $225 for the package.

We set a price, and I stood there in the JY and kept getting them to throw in other parts to sweeten the deal. Much of it I can't use or don't need, but I can either sell (to offset some costs) it or keep it as a spare.

As to the alternator, I was under the impresion that the eta cars (to include the Seta, I thought) used an 80A alternator, while the "i" cars had a 90A.

I could be mistaken.

As to the hoses, having them as spares won't hurt. Remember- the ones on my car are still fully functional as well, btu I don't see why I would not just swap them out for new, while I am doing the rest of the build.

If I am doing the "normal" timing belt service, I would do the hoses. I had that budgeted before I decided to do the head swap, so why would that change?

I still need a new head gasket, head bolts, and a VC gasket.

I have a fully functional cap on my car, and I now have a spare. Same for plug wires, injectors, fuel rail, etc.

All-in-all, I think that my $225 was well-spent.

[thereisnoyun]

Not being smart- really asking this:
Do you say that because I am using used parts, because I got the parts for cheap, because I am cutting a corner somewhere...? I am about to order $150 in new parts frm Pelican, to include all of the belts/hoses etc. for a TB change, a new WP, etc.

This build is not happening this week, nor with just the components pictured. This is just a running comentary and summary thread (so that the next guy does not have to ask he same questions).

I think I'm being biased. I'm sorry if I spoke too soon. But I just thought, that if I was doing it on a budget, even tehn I reseat the valves replace the seals, and deck the head before I throw it back on. new cap and rotor, belt, etc.

I beg to differ on the hoses replacement, depending on the amount of mile and what condition they are in. I've seen 300k hoses that never had a issue. I dont know thats just me.

[SpecM]

I would NOT re-use that cap, rotor, or any of the hoses

and the s-eta and the "i"s had the same radiator and alternator, why swap?

[nando]

380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P hahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.

there is a lot of confusion over what models came with what ECU.. I don't know this answer, but I do know that not "all" late cars came with a 380, or a 173, etc. as lots of people will claim. Firstly, they're all exactly the same thing. There may have been small changes to the software, but I laid a 173 and 525 side by side, and I couldn't tell any difference (now compare the 153 and 173, it's apples/oranges inside). Component for component, all 1.3 ECUs are identical. You can run any one you wish.

there were also way more 1.3 ECUs out there, and even more outside the US market (for things like the 320i).

[phenryiv1]

380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe.

THanks. THe 153 is from a 9/87 88 model, and the 380 is from a 90 model. Were the 173 really that short of a run?

380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P

What is wrong with it? (Not asking to be smart- I just don't know.) The liquid on it is coolant that spilled when the radiator was being pulled.

Many of the parts that are in the picture were included because when we set a price,I told thaem that I wanted every hose, component, and connector that touched the head and came up/forward. That way, I had a good estimate of what all I should have assembled (new) before I start the tear down. 90% of it coincides with he Seta hoses/lines/connectors, but I wanted everything from the "i" just in case.

hahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.

Not being smart- really asking this:
Do you say that because I am using used parts, because I got the parts for cheap, because I am cutting a corner somewhere...? I am about to order $150 in new parts frm Pelican, to include all of the belts/hoses etc. for a TB change, a new WP, etc.

This build is not happening this week, nor with just the components pictured. This is just a running comentary and summary thread (so that the next guy does not have to ask he same questions).

[reelizmpro]

Yes, you should. 380 is a later Motronic 1.3 unit.

[thereisnoyun]

380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P hahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.

[phenryiv1]

I got a 153 with the swap package. The yard offered me a 380 in its place. No 173s available.

Should (can) I run the 380 in the Seta build?

[phenryiv1]

All you needed what the list i provided, 10 parts, not the brake booster, alternator, or anything else.

A lot of that was thrown in as part of the deal.

[Flash]

All you needed what the list i provided, 10 parts, not the brake booster, alternator, or anything else.

[phenryiv1]

What all I got:

[phenryiv1]

Too bad you're in West V. I have a complete rebuilt m20 top end I'd sell ya.

I sourced an "i" top end with 135K for very cheap. I plan to examine what needs rebuilt and go from there. I am in no hurry.

I also get the cluster, DME (not sure yet if it is a 153 or 173), "i" alternator, some A pillar tweeters, and a 'vert front sway bar. I may also grab a rear exhaust section (cut right after the factory coupling, for some dumb reason).

[884door]

Too bad you're in West V. I have a complete rebuilt m20 top end I'd sell ya.

[kenika65]

Good Answers!