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Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.

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  • nando
    replied
    seta intake ports are the same as i intake ports.. but yes the manifolds are different.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigSam
    replied
    The intake manifolds are different between the 's-eta' motor and 'i' motor. The intake runners are significantly larger on the 'i' intake and match up to the 885 head properly. It is probably best to just get the whole intake assembly off a donor car, as someone suggested earlier.

    I know that it has been mentioned off hand in this thread, but I figure best to put it in it's own little post.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by Pennyw1se View Post
    While I get what you are saying, doesnt that contradict what was said in http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...959#post920959 ?

    EDIT: I take that back. I guess at the very least I should upgrade my valve springs first.
    What you say is correct, but I would not risk it on my car, particularly if it was my only car.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pennyw1se
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1 View Post
    You REALLY don't want the ability to rev past the stock ETA redline without the "i" valve springs. I'd do those FIRST (or at least before the DME swap). Even if you try to keep the revs low, it could be a disaster if you accidentally blip it too high during a downshift.
    While I get what you are saying, doesnt that contradict what was said in http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...959#post920959 ?

    EDIT: I take that back. I guess at the very least I should upgrade my valve springs first.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Now that I hava all of my parts, I am wondering whether I should have any work done to the head before I do this install. What should I do or have done before I start putting this in the car?

    I was considering having the valves done (grond, replacing seals, etc.). How much should it cost to have this done by a shop? Could I have a shop grind the valves then I handle re-assembly at home?

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by Pennyw1se View Post
    Seconded!

    Im wondering if anyone could answer a few questions.

    I too have an SETA and am planning on sourcing parts to start a stroker build. I am in no real rush and I use my E30 as a daily driver.

    My driving habits right now are not aggresive, at all, so revving past 4k rarely happens. Since this is the case, does anyone have a "get this first, get this last" list I could use? I'd like to build this in stages, meaning I would buy and install the stuff in stage1 first, then buy and install the stuff in stage2, etc.

    Flash's list appears to be the best out there so I'll use it:

    Stage1
    325i 173 ECU
    325i intake manifold
    (from http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...959#post920959)

    Stage2
    325i throttle body
    325i throttle position switch
    325i intake bellows
    325i air flow meter
    325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
    325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side

    Stage3
    325i inner valve springs
    325i cam


    Again, Im not a super aggresive driver and I use the E30 as my DD so I do not plan on pushing past 4K on my tach until after installing the 2.5i cam and inner valve springs.

    Anyone have any input or recommendations?
    You REALLY don't want the ability to rev past the stock ETA redline without the "i" valve springs. I'd do those FIRST (or at least before the DME swap). Even if you try to keep the revs low, it could be a disaster if you accidentally blip it too high during a downshift.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pennyw1se
    replied
    Originally posted by TrentW View Post
    This thread is chock full of good info.
    Seconded!

    Im wondering if anyone could answer a few questions.

    I too have an SETA and am planning on sourcing parts to start a stroker build. I am in no real rush and I use my E30 as a daily driver.

    My driving habits right now are not aggresive, at all, so revving past 4k rarely happens. Since this is the case, does anyone have a "get this first, get this last" list I could use? I'd like to build this in stages, meaning I would buy and install the stuff in stage1 first, then buy and install the stuff in stage2, etc.

    Flash's list appears to be the best out there so I'll use it:

    Stage1
    325i 173 ECU
    325i intake manifold
    (from http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...959#post920959)

    Stage2
    325i throttle body
    325i throttle position switch
    325i intake bellows
    325i air flow meter
    325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
    325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side

    Stage3
    325i inner valve springs
    325i cam


    Again, Im not a super aggresive driver and I use the E30 as my DD so I do not plan on pushing past 4K on my tach until after installing the 2.5i cam and inner valve springs.

    Anyone have any input or recommendations?

    Leave a comment:


  • TrentW
    replied
    This thread is chock full of good info.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Glad that I picked up the 380...I can hang onto the 153 as a spare.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    the diagnostics are the same. the extra diagnostics came with all 1.3 ecus.. including the 173. the 153 is a 1.1 ecu.
    I'm aware of that (motronic 1.1/1.3), but I recall Mark himself stating that he was developing a 380 chip and it was the same as the 173 chip except for the diagnostics.

    Edit: found it



    Originally posted by Mark D
    The 380 chip is just the 173 chip with some more diagnostics. You can actually run the 173 if you don't care about a few extra DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes)

    But I'll make the chip very soon, for those who care about the codes.

    Thanks

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
    380 is the successor to the 173, much like 173 is the successor to the 153. I've read reports that the 380 idles a little better than the 173 but that could easily be placebo.

    What I do remember is:
    there are more built-in diagnostics for the 380 so pinpointing problems is easier
    IIRC you can use 173 chips in 380s, and they'll work just fine, but they won't have support for the extra diagnostics
    the diagnostics are the same. the extra diagnostics came with all 1.3 ecus.. including the 173. the 153 is a 1.1 ecu.

    Leave a comment:


  • lennon
    replied
    what are these extra diagnostics? im interested in any info you have on this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    380 is the successor to the 173, much like 173 is the successor to the 153. I've read reports that the 380 idles a little better than the 173 but that could easily be placebo.

    What I do remember is:
    there are more built-in diagnostics for the 380 so pinpointing problems is easier
    IIRC you can use 173 chips in 380s, and they'll work just fine, but they won't have support for the extra diagnostics

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
    525 came on automatics and didn't have fuel cut-off. That's the only difference between it and 153.

    I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.
    huh? yes it did. it had a speed governor too. I used it with my manual. ;)

    the 380 is also the same as a 173..

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by Aptyp View Post
    525 came on automatics and didn't have fuel cut-off. That's the only difference between it and 153.

    I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.

    Leave a comment:

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