Looking For Advice 2.7i

[SpeedWiz]

Hello,
I just bought a 87' 325ic because some lady ran into my pevious 86' 325. My plans are now to tak the engine in my old wrecked car and make a 2.7i turbo for my 325ic chassis. Heres the plan:

I pretty much am making a 325i m20 with a 524td crank, e rods, e pistons
This set up should give me 8.4 compression good for turbo

I was going to get a Miller W.A.R. chip with MAF 3"

ebay turbo manifold

idk what turbo yet

also rebuilding the engine with new everything

Does anyone have any advise for me and/or predictions
helpful links too
Thanks

[Devil Inc]

Don't stress about getting a 524td crank, the stock eta one will handle the power just fine.

[nando]

skip the TD crank. it's heavy and expensive, and basically uneccesary.

also the WAR chip is neat but not really best for boost, because the Motronic 1.3 WOT map is 2D this limits your tuning pretty badly.

[SpeedWiz]

are you sure the eta crank is okay? I hear the TD crank is froged which is lighter and much stronger and i plan a lot of boost in the future

And what tuning setup would you sugest to best tune my car myself?

Thanks for the replies

[SpecM]

are you sure the eta crank is okay? I hear the TD crank is froged which is lighter and much stronger and i plan a lot of boost in the future

they're really heavier, and not much stronger. Think of it this way: all td cranks have had a hard, beat on life, while eta cranks havn't!

and that settup (with an 885 head, I assume) will give you lower CR than 8.4, more like sub-8:1

use super-eta pistons, that will give you an 8.5:1 CR

[SpeedWiz]

okay eta crank it is :D

But this says other wise for the comp ratio 8.4 for eta bottom with i head

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=100939&highlight=327i

"Note 11: If Turbo is in mind use (e Crank, e rods, e pistons, i head).
Because the i head has domed combustion chambers unlike the eta head which has flat combustion chambers, the matching of the eta flat top piston and the domed chamber of the i head will result in lower compression (which is perfect for turbo applications). The i head will bolt right on to the stock eta bottom end with no machining needed. The only problem is rough idle and hard start, which can be fixed with advanced engine management like MS,MS2,MMS or a custom chip."


and what about elecronics? I would like to be able to tune it myself

[eta]

The CR for his setup will be 8.35:1. I know because I have calculated it. The sums include the volume of a crushed headgasket. When will this mis information stop being spread.

I have eta pistons (10.2:1 ones) and an 885 head. No idle problems. Super smooth. A chip for motronic 1.3 is all you need. If your car is motronic 1.1 upgrade you won't regret it and it is cheaper than MS.

P.S As my car started life as an eta I use the eta crank. It fine all the up to 6k+, it just cannot feed itself enough air past 5500 rpm but that's mostly the stock cam's fault.

[Aptyp]

i'd like to use e pistons, so my question is the amount of piston that needs to be fly cut

[nando]

The CR for his setup will be 8.35:1. I know because I have calculated it. The sums include the volume of a crushed headgasket. When will this mis information stop being spread.

I have eta pistons (10.2:1 ones) and an 885 head. No idle problems. Super smooth. A chip for motronic 1.3 is all you need. If your car is motronic 1.1 upgrade you won't regret it and it is cheaper than MS.

P.S As my car started life as an eta I use the eta crank. It fine all the up to 6k+, it just cannot feed itself enough air past 5500 rpm but that's mostly the stock cam's fault.

he wants to turbo. Motronic is basically useless for that purpose.

[LowR3V'in]

Motronic is good for allot of set it and forget it
type chip installing, K&N buying, M30 afm using ultra noobs.
Perfect cold starts, idle, cruising.

Even stock you can do 7psi without detonation. With a tcd chip the injectors
max out before it pings, about 11psi.
Get a begi and lambda you can be up and tuned in 15minutes.

With MS you pretty much have to take
at least a month to get it decent, even if you know what you're doing.

I'm still battling for a stock like cold start. :/

[nando]

what's your cold start issue? Mine is excellent right now (spent a LOT of time on it). You are right in that regard but it's not that hard. I ran for almost a year on a generic one, it wasn't perfect but it worked fine. My hot starts now are insane, I barely turn the key and the car is already started. :)

[eta]

If you use e pistons with eta rods and crank you will not need to to anything to your pistons. I didn't and I have got the high CR ones.

[LowR3V'in]

what's your cold start issue? Mine is excellent right now (spent a LOT of time on it). You are right in that regard but it's not that hard. I ran for almost a year on a generic one, it wasn't perfect but it worked fine. My hot starts now are insane, I barely turn the key and the car is already started. :)

Perhaps we can talking about this more in P.M or in another thread?

Cold start runs to 1,500 strong right away then dies.
I have to crank it about 4 times before it catches
an alright idle in this winter weather.

Set the ICV (warm up only) to open up all the way
on cranking, and stay a bit open till about 120f. That helps allot.

Hot starts (about 190f) are alright, but a tad rich and bogy for 30seconds.
So you know how it is, pretty tedious.

[nando]

sounds like you just need to adjust your curves up for cold starts, and down for hot starts. use ASE as well as cold enrichment.

Hot starts are easy since you can do it over and over again. Keep decreasing the warmup/ASE curves fully warm until it starts and runs smoothly every time. It should take less than 1 second of cranking to start and run when hot.

Cold starts you'll have to increase the warmup and ASE curve at the temp you are at by 10% or so, and repeat until it starts and runs instantly. You can then extrapolate from there and set the rest of the curve. if you get one good start at freezing you can pretty much set the entire curve from there through fully warmed up in one go.

also 1500rpm is too high. You may be making the problem worse (not enough fuel) by opening the valve up too much. I'd aim for more like 1000-1200 at the most. The factory is like 900-1000.

[SpeedWiz]

Thanks for this info guys

So does anyone have any links for the electronics i should get?