Rebuilding Checklist

[analogjesus]

I bought a 1987 325is about a year ago, it has 250k on it and the motor is on its last leg. I bought a new engine with a stroker kit already installed. The bottom end is already assembled. I just need to put the head on. I am 17 and this is my first time putting together an engine. I am trying to compile a list of all the things I need to buy to reinstall the head. So far, this is my list:
-Head gasket
-Valve cover gasket
-Head bolts
-Timing belt
-Timing belt tensioner
-Water pump (not actually needed to reassemble the head I just figured I should put a new one in while I'm in there)
-Spark plugs

I was just wondering if I am missing anything.

And I am debating whether or not I should send the head out to be checked by a machinist, I feel it would probaly be a good idea but then again I don't know if it is neccesary. If so, any reputable machinist in the southern NH/northwestern MA area?

[jlevie]

Having the head checked is a really good idea and might save you from having to remove it soon after installing the engine. If you are re-using the head off your high mileage engine, you should have the head worked over. At the least that would mean a valve job and new seals. At that mileage the head will probably need new guides and exhaust valves.

A few things to add to your list:

Intake & exhaust manifold gaskets
Header to down tube gaskets
New copper plated lock nuts for the exhaust manifold and down tube
Seals for the oil return tube
Cam shaft seal and o-ring
Four rubber bungs for the valve cover

You may also need the heater nipple gasket

[nando]

does the head have an aftermarket cam? if it does (and even if it doesn't), make sure your machinist checks valve clearance at TDC.

[White325is]

Here, save you the trouble.

http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69492

[analogjesus]

The engine came with a separate head that has a lot of miles on it. The block I bought only has 30k on it. According to the guy I bought my car from a new head was installed at 190k, although I have no proof of this so I am not sure. I kind of want to use the head that is in my car on the new engine, but I also would prefer to be able to build the engine I have and just swap it in on a weekend instead of having to remove the head in my car and installing it on my new block. I think the best solution would be to make sure the high-mileage head I have is alright and just use that.

I am also looking to cam my engine, but my father said it would be best to get the engine running with the stock cam and then go back in once I have it all set and install a cam. He told me that it would be easier to troubleshoot if I only change one thing at a time. I am not sure I want to have to remove and reinstall the head after I get the engine together though, opinions?

[nando]

it will definitely be easier to install a cam now. Just look up broken rocker arm threads and see how hard of a time some people have removing the rockers and rockershafts to replace 1 broken rocker. Now imagine you have to remove all of them, plus the cam, inside the car. it's not like a domestic V8 where you pull the timing cover off, remove the chain and have the cam swapped out in a half an hour. even on a bench it could take you several hours to assemble the head yourself for the first time.

I would also consider rebuilding the high mileage head - you don't have to go crazy, have the valves ground, check for guide wear and replace as neccesary, check for cracks, replace the seals, new springs if you can afford it, definitely new rockers (IE heavy duty rockers are highly reccomended), and if your dad won't let you do a performance cam, get a new stock cam instead.

Second best would be swapping in your low mile head, but being able to simply drop in a new motor is definitely easiest.

[jlevie]

If you intend to change cams, definitely have which ever head you use reworked and install the new cam before installing the head. If this is a daily driver, don't get aggressive with the cam choice.

[analogjesus]

That is exactly what I thought. I know if I was to put getting a cam off until later, I would probably never do it just because of all of the work.

I have another little question. My block's displacement is 2722 cc but the person I bought it from said it was a 2.8. Doesn't 2722 cc round to 2.7?

Is 288 degrees a good balance between drivability and power? That was my original. intention

[nando]

yes, you round down if less than 50cc, and up if 50cc or more.

do you know the bore/stroke?

[analogjesus]

yes, you round down if less than 50cc, and up if 50cc or more.

do you know the bore/stroke?

Not off the top of my head, the block is sitting in my basement and I have a micrometer. Stroke isn't measured from the top of the piston to the top of the block is it?

Does anyone here know a Matt Wilinsky? He is the one i bought the engine from, real nice guy, but he told me he would give me some 19lb injectors and a powder coated IM but I haven't been able to get in touch with him since I bought the engine in October of last year. The engine was said to be built by flyingbrick racing.

[nando]

no, it's measured on the crank, but you can measure at the piston too - it's the difference between top dead center and bottom dead center.