New to forum and e30's. Have a question (of course).

[Chrisv006]

Hey all,

I have owned several e36 M3's and currently DD a 330i 6speed. I talked the wife into letting me get a project car. So I bought an 1987 325is (not running).

I have been trying to get the M20 in there working before I go any further with this. If I can get it working, great I will keep it and probably turbo and have fun. If I cant, I will go with a swap right away.

I can not get the engine to start as of now. It turns over and over but no fire. I have tested the following (after much searching):

Battery - Seems strong, tuns very well. At any rate, Its hooked up to a speed charger so even if its weak, it shouldnt matter.
Fusable link - intact
CPS - 497ohms
Temp Sensor - 4k ohms (I have it jumpered with a 2.2kohm resistor for troubleshooting purposes)
Injectors - all 6 are 16.2-16.4 ohms
Spark - all 6 wires gave me very large (1/4-1/2 inch) sparks when I gave them the screw-driver to the intake manifold test.
Spark Plugs - Brand new, OEM, correctly gaped.
Fuel Pressure - 43psi at fuel rail
Fuel pump - see above
Relays - Appear to be working...When I crank, I can hear injector clicks. I have tried cranking with the fuel relay in and with it jumped with no different result.

I have not checked the grounds because I tested the spark plugs to the intake manifold with no problem. I have not taken apart the humming thing on top of the intake (i forgot its name) because its humming as intended, and I dont see how it would keep it from starting. I have checked for air leaks as best as I could with it not running. I have not checked the computer because it sounded like it was working.

I did run a compression test...the results worry me a bit, I dont want to spend a penny on this motor until I can get some opinions...Keep in mind these were taken with a cold motor. I have not tried the oil trick though.

1-87.5
2-85
3-85
4-87.5
5-85
6-82.5

Whats everyone think? New motor or can I get this one to live with out a rebuild?

-Chris

edit - timing belt is intact.

[scottinAZ]

compression is low, but that could be due to stuck rings, if the motor has been sitting a while. I would try spraying some wd-40 or similar into the intake while trying to start it. this will bypass the fuel system in the car, giving you a known fuel supply, and may be enough to get things going again. if it does fire, and die, the problem is in the fuel delivery system.

[Chrisv006]

I tested every pin to the DME on the pinouts I had with the key off and on. Every connection to the DME is working perfectly. The DME itself was kind of buzzing. I took it apart and found what appeared to be some corrosion on a few contacts and dried water on the bottom of the housing...I need to source one and swap it to try again.

I am getting spark and fuel into the cylinders though. I dont see how a damaged DME would still function like that...but I guess stranger things have happened.

I tested fuel pressure out of the regulator and with no vaccum applied it was 0. Thats with the hose pulled off the regulator. I retested the supply and I still had 43psi to the fuel rail....Think a faulty regulator could be the problem?

I am about at a loss, Im going to take apart the intake manifold and replace every vacuum line and gasket to ensure its sealed.

Opinions??

[Chrisv006]

Update -

Put a bit of oil in the cylinders...compression test numbers much better, around 130 this time.

Tried to start, sounded so so close to firing, got a bunch of oil smoke out the tail end, but then it never started.

Where do I go from here?

[jlevie]

If you hear the engine partially firing, I'd suggest that you start looking for vacuum leaks. The complete list of possible causes of an intake leak is:

Intake boot
Throttle body gasket
ICV hoses & connections
Brake booster, hoses, and connections
Crank case breather hose
Evaporative control hose and valve
Fuel pressure regulator & hose
Injector seals
Valve cover gaskets & bungs
Oil filler cap
Dip stick o-rings
Oil return tube o-rings