changed my timing belt, now its leaking coolant.

[2.5-12]

You talking about the nuts that bolt the manifold to the block? Mine were so rusted as soon as i put a wrench on it a few crumbled. I am going to dremmel the nuts off and use vise grips to get the stud off once the manifold is off. I got everything to replace it all for like $10

no, those Im sure would be even worse

I am talking about the 3 satanic nuts on the bottoms of the manifolds, I can't frekkin' do it! haha

[2.5-12]

Do This. I had a leak after changing the radiator, and it was because the clamp on the hose coming from the water pump wasn't tight enough. Those clamps down there are a serious bitch to tighten properly due to tight space.

I think i've double checked every clamp, but like you said -- its ridiculously hard to see down there and it just seems like its leaking from the WP area... even though it had no leaks before the t-belt change and I don't think I was super rough on it whiles changing the belt either

perhaps I should just replace all the hoses and see what happens. they are pretty old anyway.

[Sagaris]

When I bought my car, the P.O. had replaced the hose which goes from the thermostat housing to the water pump, the one that goes near the distributor cap. No matter how much I tightened and repositioned the clamp it would still drip. I couldnt imagine that the hose, being newer would be the problem, but sure enough it was. After buying a new hose, I used one of those clamps with the plastic wing nut on it so it is easy to hand tighten and loosen. Its much more convenient than getting a screwdriver or 1/4" socket down there.

[2.5-12]

When I bought my car, the P.O. had replaced the hose which goes from the thermostat housing to the water pump, the one that goes near the distributor cap. No matter how much I tightened and repositioned the clamp it would still drip. I couldnt imagine that the hose, being newer would be the problem, but sure enough it was. After buying a new hose, I used one of those clamps with the plastic wing nut on it so it is easy to hand tighten and loosen. Its much more convenient than getting a screwdriver or 1/4" socket down there.

interesting.

I shall see what hoses I have in my garage from previous M20 cars.. and get a new bypass hose from AZ

that had better fix this problem, haha.

[DJB]

Do This. I had a leak after changing the radiator, and it was because the clamp on the hose coming from the water pump wasn't tight enough. Those clamps down there are a serious bitch to tighten properly due to tight space.

They are easy to tighten

Hint:
6mm (or 1/4") Nutdriver for hose clamps

Hose clamps should be tightened so that that they are flush with the surface. The original BMW ones have a "lip" on the edges -- the inner surface should just meet the hose, not digging in or leaving a gap.

[MoparJ]

They are easy to tighten

Hint:
6mm (or 1/4") Nutdriver for hose clamps

Hose clamps should be tightened so that that they are flush with the surface. The original BMW ones have a "lip" on the edges -- the inner surface should just meet the hose, not digging in or leaving a gap.

Actually, I did use a nut driver (a stubby one, at that) but due to the angle and limited space, I couldn't get the clamp tight until the third try.

That being said, I also used cheap parts store clamps which tend to bind in certain spots......I thought I was doing myself a favor using new clamps, but I honestly think reusing the dirty old stock ones would have actually been easier.

[2.5-12]

PO tightened them pretty hard.

I have lots of different clamps on my hoses. probably only 2 or 3 OEM ones.

I'll just get new hoses and see whats what.

[2.5-12]

fëck. hoses were all fine.

[///M42 sport]

did you notice the mating surface for the hoses coated with crap? that could keep the hoses from sealing properly

[2.5-12]

did you notice the mating surface for the hoses coated with crap? that could keep the hoses from sealing properly

yep, I brushed that crap off as I recall

put in my new water pump today, it looks like I'll need to pull the belt again to get the tensioner spring and bar back in though.

the old pump looked genuinely fine but the PO definitely used silicone and no OEM gasket. I used just an OEM gasket.

fingers bloody crossed. so far I have spent more time on this than my timing belt change. that fan clutch nut would not come off so the sawzall finished it off for me. bastard design.

I'll post an update when I know whether this new one leaks or not. I cleaned the mating surface as best I could.

[digital_cowboy]

Also, the hose running to the water pump on the passenger side can be pushed on too far, thus causing a leak. There is a little rectangular metal piece on the water pump and if the hose gets pressed against it too hard it will cause a poor mate.

[2.5-12]

I dug my head in there to try and see the mating surface -- it looks all fine and dandy. the clamps are at proper tightness, not too hard. new water pump and fan clutch are in. started the car after I got the TB tensioner spring back in and the fucker still leaks.

what the hell!