So i have fuel pressure at the rail, all the plugs are producing spark, injectors are getting power, ive tried another ecu off of a running car, ive tried another maf off a running car, and all the relays and fuses are good. the car will start and run for literally 2 seconds and then cut off. after it cuts itself off you can't start it again for a few minutes, it just turns over but wont fire. when i put another cap and rotor button on there to see if that was the issue i could see the timing belt and pushed on it with a screwdriver and it had proper tension on it. will these belts jump a couple of teeth? if the timing was off would it even fire up and run for that 2 seconds? any idea's would be great. thanks.
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is it flooding? -
i dont know! how to tell? when i pull a plug out it doesn't seem soaking wet with fuel. in fact i don't see or smell any. i know i have power at the injector wire plugs because i checked them all with a light tester. you think all the injectors could be clogged? it doesnt seem likely to me but i guess it's possible. if they are, where is all that fuel going that i can see at the fuel rail inlet?Last edited by eta1987; 06-16-2010, 06:27 PM.Comment
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your eta needs the cold start valve to be operating correctly, so make sure it has fuel going to it as well and make sure its not dead.Comment
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i will check that too but i dont think that is going to keep it from running...maybe...im really at a loss at this point. thanksComment
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any more ideas fella's?Comment
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Attach a fuel pressure gage to the rail and see what the fuel pressure does when it fires and then dies. Also when it has fired and died and won't start, pull check for spark.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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I know this is a long shot but you might want to lift the back seat and pull the fuel level sending unit and fuel pump. Verify that there is plenty of gas in the tank. This happened to me two months ago, the fuel gauge read just shy of half a tank when in fact it had just enough gas to start then die. My fuel level sending unit had gone bad. I replaced the main fuel pump and filter and was replacing the in tank transfer pump when I discovered I was actually out of gas. That was an expensive lesson! Good luck.Comment
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I have adequate pressure at the rail and spark at all the plugs. I also know i have enough gas because i put a bottle of seafoam in with 5 gallons of 93. Has anyone had a crank position trigger fail? I am too the point now that i think it has to be one of the timing sensors. there is one that sits on the front pulley and another on the flywheel. nothing else i can think of outside of all the things i have eliminated could cause it to act the way it is. still just fires up for a second and then cuts itself off.Comment
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To check the reference sensor, with the ignition off, pull the motronic control connector (over glove box) and use a multi-meter connected between terminals 25 and 26. It should read 960 ±96 Ω resistance.
To check the engine speed sensor connect meter between terminals 8 and 27 it should also read 960 ±96 Ω resistance.
Section 6 page 48 of Bentley BMW 3 Series service ManualComment
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thanks ill check that out...im guessing your talking about the big white harness that plugs into the ecu?Comment
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That's the one. Remember key/ignition OFF during test.Comment
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This is one of the few times that the Bentley manual is wrong. Anyone who actually checks a known good CPS will find that the resistance is close to 540 ohms.
Remember that the DME switches ground to the injectors, so just because you have power at the injector connectors doesn't mean that they are actually opening.
'89 Alpine S52 with goodiesComment
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Bentley BMW 3 Series Service Manual "Wrong"! Won't that sort of blasphemy get you driven out of town by and angry mob with torches and you user name stricken from the forums for all time?Comment
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