A few build Q's

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  • nando
    replied
    no, you can tap it in gently with a rubber hammer and a block of wood. don't put RTV on the seals, put some motor oil on the inside lip, and if you must, hylomar on the outside.

    I'd put assembly lube wherever there is metal on metal contact. also prime the oil pump before you start it.

    the M20 is about as simple of an engine to build as it gets. I wouldn't worry too much as long as you've done your homework.

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  • JTDay
    replied
    A few questions.

    Regarding rear main seal install, I'm having a bit of trouble finding detailed instructions. Do I really need one of those seal installers? It seems superfluous for just putting a piece of rubber in a recessed opening. Also, once seal is pushed in, is it neccessary to apply RTV? I'm finding mixed reviews about rtv use and seals. ANSWERED

    For head assembly I assume the only place assembly lube is needed are on the cam journal bearing surfaces. Is this correct?ANSWERED
    Last edited by JTDay; 08-16-2010, 09:37 PM.

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  • JTDay
    replied
    Originally posted by Sagaris
    I recently saw a 90k mile M20b25 on my local craigslist for sale for $700, looks like its gone now but If I were in your position, I would be afraid about getting everything done and installed , thinking im done, then something expensive goes wrong and being out of time and money to fix it. I would rather buy a known good engine for ~$500, pop it in, and take your time refreshing the other engine correctly.
    This option never even crossed my mind. I'm 19 and a little impulsive. Appreciate the input.

    Originally posted by jlevie
    The cam sprocket indexes to the cam via a pin(I can't believe I didn't realize this during disassembly), so there can't be any timing errors there. When it is time to put the head back on, position the engine at TDC and align the cam sprocket with the mark.

    Dip type parts cleaner does a great job on cleaning parts. But simply washing the parts down with mineral spirits is sufficient.

    There are assembly lubes available, but engine oil also works. Lube should be applied to every bearing surface during assembly.

    Ideal clearance on the bottom end bearings is one ten thousandth per inch of journal diameter. Plasti-gage sort of works, but checking clearances is best done with a micrometer and a bore gage. It is also best to check the journals at several points to make sure they aren't worn. If acceptable, have the journals polished.
    Thanks buddy.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    The cam sprocket indexes to the cam via a pin, so there can't be any timing errors there. When it is time to put the head back on, position the engine at TDC and align the cam sprocket with the mark.

    Dip type parts cleaner does a great job on cleaning parts. But simply washing the parts down with mineral spirits is sufficient.

    There are assembly lubes available, but engine oil also works. Lube should be applied to every bearing surface during assembly.

    Ideal clearance on the bottom end bearings is one ten thousandth per inch of journal diameter. Plasti-gage sort of works, but checking clearances is best done with a micrometer and a bore gage. It is also best to check the journals at several points to make sure they aren't worn. If acceptable, have the journals polished.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sagaris
    replied
    I recently saw a 90k mile M20b25 on my local craigslist for sale for $700, looks like its gone now but If I were in your position, I would be afraid about getting everything done and installed , thinking im done, then something expensive goes wrong and being out of time and money to fix it. I would rather buy a known good engine for ~$500, pop it in, and take your time refreshing the other engine correctly.

    Leave a comment:


  • hotballs
    replied
    seriously?

    Leave a comment:


  • JTDay
    started a topic A few build Q's

    A few build Q's

    8-23-10 Two questions listed in new post..


    As far as machining goes I plan on having the head cleaned, resurfaced, and checked for deformities. Then I will replace valve stem oil seals and cam seal then reassemble. That's where my first question is:

    1. Once I reassemble the head, how do I know the proper position to put the cam pulley back on. I know there are line-up marks on the pulley and the head but wont the position of the camshaft affect this? Or is there a special position the cam is supposed to be rotated at before I put pulley on and line up marks? ANSWERED

    2. What is the safe/proper way to clean the internal head parts like rockers, rocker shafts, cam, etc. ?ANSWERED

    3. What lubes n' shit do I have to use and on what surfaces do I put them on when I reasseble the head? . ANSWERED



    Thanks to all who take the time to read this (my apologies for typos).
    -Josh D.
    Last edited by JTDay; 08-23-2010, 02:54 PM.
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