Help please!! No crank and no turn

[IminDiegoTriick]

I failed to mention that this was an automatic turned 5speed.. I checked to see if the neutral safety switch/transmission switch was there... it wasnt existent. Ahhhh

[lateracer]

When I put in my 1.3 harness I didn't wire the starter correctly and all the starter did was spin but not engage the flywheel. Got a pic of your wiring setup?

[IminDiegoTriick]

When I put in my 1.3 harness I didn't wire the starter correctly and all the starter did was spin but not engage the flywheel. Got a pic of your wiring setup?

Update.. Checked DME.. Replaced Ignition Switch. Resistance on the blue taped harness.. and Fuses 21/27 have resistance. They both share a common thing (Interior lights/ OBC/ Radio Antenna) Im not sure what that really means.. but these are the symptoms in cliff notes
-No Crank/Start
-Bought & installed new starter
-No Crank/Start still
-Replaced ALL Relays
-Replaced Ignition Switch
-Checked all Fuses none are blown
-sadness





It looks pretty correct to me... but hopefully the wiring is incorrect. I really need my car back to go to school/work. Its been weeeks now.

Right now currently looking for G200 connection under the dash above break pedal.

[IminDiegoTriick]

This guy has a black/yellow harness.. I dont on either of my e30s.. is this a big deal? they seemed fine without it.. but what the hell do I know. in place I have a wire from the battery and the harness..

[mjimport]

Any update? I'm having weird starting issues too.

[IminDiegoTriick]

Well today I got her to START!!! YEAHHHH WOWOfnjwenbuivewufweufnweuif fuck ya. I jumped terminal 86 to terminal 50 underneath the steering column and at the starter. It started. So I retraced all the wires & found next to the shift knob green/yellow & green/blue need to short each other out. So I spliced them together and she purred once again! I would like to thank FRANK from BMW Heritage of Ontario Canada. He really knows what he is talking about.. I would not have been able to do this without him!! here is our back to back conversation

[IminDiegoTriick]

READ FROM BOTTOM UP


9.and then check for continuity from term 87 BLK/YL on relay to term 50 BLK/YL at the starter and/or term 11 BLK/YL on diagnostic connector.
>
> This is where the problem comes......
> T-87 to T-50 -No continuity (T-50 as in the starter switch).
CORRECTION --STARTER TERMINAL #50
We have continuity after specifying Starter Terminal 50.


> T-50 to T-11 in Diagnostic connector - No continuity.

> LOOKS LIKE A BREAK BETWEEN SPLICE -S107 AND STARTER TERMINAL #50
We have continuity from Starter T-50 to T-11.

T-87 to T-11 in Diagnostic Connector - Yes continuity.
>
>
> 10.also with ignition on you should have power at term 86 Green/Black of the start relay .
>
> T-86 - No voltage with ignition ON.
THIS IS SO BECAUSE AT C306(+)green/yellow > green/black IS CAPPED OFF
Is this good or bad? Are they suppose to be connected to each other? Wouldn't that be a short?
>

11.test term 85 Brown on start relay for continuity to ground >
> T-85 to GRD - Okay on continuity.
>
OK LETS ELIMINATE AND ISOLATE---SINCE C306 IS NOT JUMPED-- (NO VOLTAGE TO T86) GO DIRECT WITH A JUMPER WIRE FROM T50 AT IGNITION SWITCH TO T50 AT STARTER AND TRY TO START CAR. IT SHOULD START , YOU CAN LEAVE IT LIKE THIS, UNTIL YOU FIND THE BREAK FROM THE SPLICE-- HOWEVER CRUISE MAY NOT WORK BECAUSE OF NO POWER AT 86
It started...WooHooo. But I would rather fix this the right way. No Jury Rigging for this ole Navy hand. Cruis will be a later problem.


> Since everyone's been under your dash playing Edward scissor hands there's probably a ground disconnected at G200 for the starter relay !!!(G200 ground junction is located left hand side of dash above brake pedal) or a cut in a wire or even a bad relay. - (hot relays and other electronics cant take a lot of shock...especially from a rollover)
>
> Is G200 the same terminal holding the Start Relay with T-85, 86, 87 & 30? If it is, then I dismount from the rest of the ahrness and did check all connections in the back.
NO IT SHOULD BE ABOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL -- JUST FOLLOW T85 BRN TO ITS END, BUT IF U HAVE CONTINUITY YOUR OK.
Do not have enough time to trace this. But as you say, I got continuity, then I'm good.


This is the Cabrio, which did not take any rollovers. I MEANT THE DONOR CAR YOU TOOK THE START RELAY FROM ... THAT WAS ROLLED OVER..RIGHT?
IF EVERYTHING IS GOOD HERE AND IT STILL DOESN’T RUN THEN WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE OBC
MAKE SURE 30H ON THE STARTED IS HOOKED UP---THIS ENGAGES/DISENGAGES UNLOADER RELAYS- WINDOWS ETC. WONT WORK
So now we know it starts and runs. I am still using the same start relay from the Cabrio. Not donor car. And now, we know I have a break somewhere.....any ideas? And yes, 30H on Starter is hooked up. Did not have time to check the windows since most of the switches were pulled out. But we do have lights. We are smiling right now. We heard the car purrr........Keep them coming to find the problem.



> PS. Whats a 4X4 module?
>
> I will follow-up on what kind of module some one said to check....and I do not know where or what it is....
> NEVER MIND THAT, IT’S THE FLASHER
Whew! I got the same manual that you got. But you are the guru of electrical schematic reading We fix this, my son owes you some brew when you come to San Diego for a visit.




From: Speedracer330 <speedracer330@hotmail.com>

>
> 1.your car was originally an automatic right?
>
> Yes.
>
> 2.the automatics have the reverse light switch and neutral switch in the shifter assembly, so we know that's gone right?
>
> Yes.
> 3.what's left is the 9 pin white male (c301 or c306) connector coming from the main harness - a brown in the middle, a blue/white in the top left, 2 green/white coming from the top right and a green/black on the bottom right.
>
> C306. Blue/White & (1) Green/White direct connection for reverse light. The rest are not used & capped off.
>
> 4.Stick cars only have (2)green/white & blue & white. If they are these colors then the car was originally a stick and does not have a start relay.
>
> 10-4. That is what I have on my 5 spd. E30 rolled over parts car where I get all of the useful still good parts.
>
> 5.#10 fuse feeds (+)green/yellow > blue/white > goes to the reverse switch on the trans which closes the circuit for the reverse lights.
>
> I had blown fuses before on my parts car due to wiring being shorted out. Very familiar with this.
>
> 6.#10 fuse feeds (+)green/yellow > green/black > goes to start relay and Motronics Control Unit. It can be jumped across, but should go to a (Normally Closed) switch located at the clutch pedal bracket
>
> I do not have a clutch safety switch on the converted. Just regular clutch. Did not require this before since the Cabrio was in use and starts without problems before. Do we still need this? I am still confused on where is this'Start Relay'? Is this the same relay in the engine compartment together with the fuel & O2 relays?
>
> 7.#10 fuse feeds (+)green/yellow & (-)brown > both power and ground the automatic shifter illumination bulb or you can use it to illuminated an M shifter knob
>
> Has been eliminated. No use of this.
>
> 8.Now check term. 50 BLK/YL at the ignition switch for power on crank and then turn Ign. off and check 50 BLK/YL with term 30 BLK/YL at the start relay for continuity.(relay is located behind left side of dash below SRS module)
>
> Term. 50 at ignition switch is solid Black. Same as the parts car. There are no BLK/YL, even though the BMW Elec. T/S Manual says so. But T-50 has 12.4 VDC with ignition ON. T-50 & T-30 on relay has continuity.
>
> 9.and then check for continuity from term 87 BLK/YL on relay to term 50 BLK/YL at the starter and/or term 11 BLK/YL on diagnostic connector.
>
> This is where the problem comes......
> T-87 to T-50 -No continuity (T-50 as in the starter switch).
CORRECTION --STARTER TERMINAL #50
> T-50 to T-11 in Diagnostic connector - No continuity.

> LOOKS LIKE A BREAK BETWEEN SPLICE -S107 AND STARTER TERMINAL #50

T-87 to T-11 in Diagnostic Connector - Yes continuity.
>
>
> 10.also with ignition on you should have power at term 86 Green/Black of the start relay .
>
> T-86 - No voltage with ignition ON.
THIS IS SO BECAUSE AT C306(+)green/yellow > green/black IS CAPPED OFF
> 11.test term 85 Brown on start relay for continuity to ground >
> T-85 to GRD - Okay on continuity.
>
OK LETS ELIMINATE AND ISOLATE---SINCE C306 IS NOT JUMPED-- (NO VOLTAGE TO T86) GO DIRECT WITH A JUMPER WIRE FROM T50 AT IGNITION SWITCH TO T50 AT STARTER AND TRY TO START CAR. IT SHOULD START , YOU CAN LEAVE IT LIKE THIS, UNTIL YOU FIND THE BREAK FROM THE SPLICE-- HOWEVER CRUISE MAY NOT WORK BECAUSE OF NO POWER AT 86


> Since everyone's been under your dash playing Edward scissor hands there's probably a ground disconnected at G200 for the starter relay !!!(G200 ground junction is located left hand side of dash above brake pedal) or a cut in a wire or even a bad relay. - (hot relays and other electronics cant take a lot of shock...especially from a rollover)
>
> Is G200 the same terminal holding the Start Relay with T-85, 86, 87 & 30? If it is, then I dismount from the rest of the ahrness and did check all connections in the back.
NO IT SHOULD BE ABOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL -- JUST FOLLOW T85 BRN TO ITS END, BUT IF U HAVE CONTINUITY YOUR OK.


This is the Cabrio, which did not take any rollovers. I MEANT THE DONOR CAR YOU TOOK THE START RELAY FROM ... THAT WAS ROLLED OVER..RIGHT?
IF EVERYTHING IS GOOD HERE AND IT STILL DOESN’T RUN THEN WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE OBC
MAKE SURE 30H ON THE STARTED IS HOOKED UP---THIS ENGAGES/DISENGAGES UNLOADER RELAYS- WINDOWS ETC. WONT WORK

> PS. Whats a 4X4 module?
>
> I will follow-up on what kind of module some one said to check....and I do not know where or what it is....
> NEVER MIND THAT, IT’S THE FLASHER
> Let me know what you think. I think it's best to do on PMs. Saves byte space. Thanks.
>
> Lawrence
> BMW CCA San Diego Chapter

[IminDiegoTriick]

Using the electrical diagram was the BIGGEST help along with FRANKs advice

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=180242